Japan, -Diahatsu is their oldest car company.
It is under the drivers footwell on the right hand side. There should be a cover over it and it should come off easily by pulling the bottom left corner of it. Don't ask me what all the fuses are for, but there is a diagram on the internet somewhere.
The battery is located in a compartment under the drivers seat.
the seat needs to be slide fully forward and the carpet lifted to reveal a cover
which is held in place with a butterfly nut.
this is for the 'old style' vanettes pre 1994 ish
The main issue in the installation is the wiring. Three of them must be hooked into the ignition switch. To access the wiring you must remove the 2 lower panels underneath the driver side dash. Reaching your right hand up approximately behind the ignition switch, you'll grab hold of a bundle of wires (and also grab hold of the most slimy substance known to man -tape residue-) If you trace the bundle back to the switch, you'll feel a large round connector, about 2 inches in diameter. There are no clips holding it on, so you can wiggle it off. This allows you to see all the wires and attach the taps with ease. A word of warning! DO NOT take the connector apart. I did so in order to trace the pins (you just see a mess of wires coming out of the plug with no real order to them) Unfortunately, the pins inside are held on by the cap. Assuming you are stupid and attempt disassembly, wires will spring out, leaving you to figure out their proper place. Upon reassembly, you will then find that simply inserting your key into the ignition will cause your car to start :freak: Naturally, this would only happen if you were silly. On to the wiring. There are 4 main wires that require hook up from the unit.
1.) Red - Constant 12v
This wire hooks to the beefy red wire coming out of the switch. There are actually 2, and I found it didn't matter which one you chose, both are constant 12v
2.) Blue - Accessory Wire (Becomes active when switch is in #2 position)
This is a beefy black wire, only one coming out.
3.) Green - On Wire (Switch in # 3 position)
Blue wire with red stripe.
4.) Black - Ground
Since I put my controller in the center console next to the lighter, I mounted it to a metal post inside.
Place your ignition switch back on, and then route your wires to wherever your unit will be (up and to the right is a pass-through to the center console).
Additionally, there are 2 safety wires, a brown one for the parking brake signal, and a purple one for the speed signal. These keep the car from being driven away while the TT is still running.
5.) Brown - Parking Brake Safety Wire
Unscrew the 2 torx screws holding the tray underneath the brake lever. Detach the clip at the front holding the tray to the front console (right in front of the fuse box) You can now lift out the tray and you will find a brown wire running from the parking brake safety switch. Tap into this wire with the brown wire from the TT.
See related links for complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to remove a door panel and complete step-by-step instructions (with photos) on how to test a power window motor to determine whether the problem is in the motor/regulator or the switch/wiring.
one way is take it to an alignment shop and get the worn/damaged parts replaced and realigned. Is it front wheels or rear? One side or both? Do it at any speed or certain speeds? does it pull to one side when NOT "juddering"?
I have the same problem but can describe it in more detail. 1. The problem normally appears at 60 km/h but gets worse at 80 km/h or more. 2. The patrol handles perfectly off-road and only suffers from this problem on the tarmac. 3. The problem is more likely to occur when the vehicle is going downhill. 4. The vehicle does not pull to one side when driving or under breaking. 5. During the vibration the vehicle keeps a straight course but will not stop juddering until the vehicle comes to rest. 6. The problem gets worse if the vehicle is cornering. 7. Juddering is normally provoked by passing over a dilatation joint crossing the road. 8. The juddering moves the front part of the vehicle from side to side and violently judders the steering wheel. It feels like you have a front wheel blow-out.
If anyone can tell me what is wrong I'm sure it would help everyone else as well. This seems to be a pretty common problem.
had the same problem - very frightening on a mountain road in Norway! make sure front wheels are balanced, but mine was solved by changing the steering damper. good luck!
now if this is the same as i experienced on my range rover, then the answer could be the same..ie front swival pre load insuffient.cure on rangie, remove a shim or two..steering damper also known to cause this..
Good day I am in agreement with the above replace the steering damper and it would not do any harm to have the wheels balanced. A wobble around 80 kph is definitely wheel balacing and once the wobble gets started having a worn damper does nothing to stop the wobble Ernest
um....if you dont see two white lines there than they rubbed off. There should be a raised mark on both the engine and the flywheel. the timing marks are put on there with chalk so you may have to redo them.
It is a great buy. It has alot of room to have sex with your girlfriend or soulmate after a good date.
The car looks fine.
long and short extension
breaker bar or Big wrench so you can put on rachet to give you more leverage.
start by disconnecting the battery. Something that will greatly help from the top is disconnect the wire from the starter going to the positive battery wire. You will thank god for this later. (it was a pain in the butt)
Remove nut from positive side of silinoid
Remove 10 mm bolt holding stainless steel lines
Remove 14 mm upper and lower bolts (I used racheting wrench with extension and 1" wrench to give me leverage)
There is one more 14 mm short bolt that is above tranny pan that you will need a long extenstion to get to.
Once you remove all bolts starter should almost fall out of place minus wire that you disconnected earlier. The one I had, had gotten caught up with other wires and I finally got aggrivated and just broke the wire off to get the starter out. This is not a big deal as the new or remanufactured starter will have this wire.
Make sure to line up the plate right and thread in the top bolt hand tightened.
Do the same as with lower bolt.
line up bracket and thread in the short bolt tight so you don't have to mess with it again.
tighten stainless steel line back together.
Have someone push the wire up you in the upper part of the engine area and plug wire back in.
tighten all bolts and make sure to attach positive batter cable wire to starter.
Reinstall battery and give the key a turn.
Every 56 thousand miles or five years whichever comes first
Year make model would help. Probably you are referring to a hub assembly in a passenger car. A hub assembly contains the wheel bearing, and the hub to mount the wheel to. Many also contain the anti lock brake system wheel speed sensor which makes them very expensive in some cases.
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cold climate avg outside temp around or under 60 degrees i would use a 5w 30
warmer climate avg outside temp over 60 degrees a 10w 40 would be good
but for the most part 5w30 is a year round oil its basically a standard in the industry for alot of older imports, 10w 30 for older domestics, and most German cars will require a 5w40 or 5w50 only avail in synthetics. alot of newer vehicles have a specific weight of oil that you must use. if you use another type you may void your warranty
whenever your unsure check the owners manual or call the dealer for a reccomendation
Directly behind the clutch pedal lever in the passanger compartment on the drivers side. Just like the brake light switch which is behind the brake pedal lever.
Read your owner's manual.
Today's vehicles use platinum tipped plugs. They are good for at least 100,000 miles unless they fail which would cause severe missing and a severe drop in fuel mileage. If you have regular service done, have the mechanic check them.
Yes. You would need to wire them up to your running lights.
Worn seal on steering rack
Worn seal on p.s. pump
Generally speaking, overdrive (O/D) is the highest gear in the transmission. On most cars the automatic transmission has 3 speeds and Overdrive (forth speed). Overdrive allows the engine to have less rpm with higher speed in order to have better fuel efficiency. When you switch it on, you allow the transmission to shift into overdrive mode after the certain speed is reached (usually 30 - 40 mph depending on the load). When it's off, you limit transmission shifting by third speed.
In normal driving condition the overdrive should be always on.
You may need to switch it off when driving in mountainous area or towing a trailer.
[The automatic transmission automatically shifts from OD to the 3-th gear when it feel more load. When it feels less load it shifts back to the O/D, but under certain conditions, e.g: driving uphill or towing a trailer, the transmission can not decide to stay in OD or to shift into 3-th speed and it starts to shift back and forth. That's the time you may switch it off and help the transmission to decide.] .
You also may need to switch it off when you want to slowdown using the engine braking, for example, driving downhill. [For more details, check your owner's manual]
Where are Nissan Rogue manufactured
The drain plug is on the bottom of the radiater but the best way to change it is to have it profesionally flushed
For Replacement of '96-'99 Nissan sentra alternator.1- disconnect the battery negative (ground)wire.2- disconnect the three alternator wires(two are plug on,the other is a screw on)3- disconnect the upper radiator hose leading from the radiator to the engine(its black and approx. six in. long) it blocks the removal of the Alt.4- looking down into the engine compartment at the alternator you will see a bracket fastened to the alternator with a bolt. The other end of the bracket is attached to the engine block.Remove BOTH of these bolts.Store these and all other bolts etc. in a safe place.5- Jack up the car high enough so you can use a creeper to work under the car.(PLEASE USE JACK STANDS TO SUPPORT THE CAR BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO GO UNDER IT!!)6- go under the car and remove the Cardboard splash shields. There are TWO that have to be removed,one on the wheel well, and one under the front of the engine. When you have removed the splash shields the alternator will be visible from beneath the car.7- using a good drop light locate the TWO lower alternator mounting bolts,they are on opposite sides of the alternator.Remove both these bolts and save.8-The alternator is now bolt free and can be moved to and fro.Rock the alternator until there is "play" in the belt attached to the alternator pulley.Remove this belt(if you have a splined/grooved pulley, you may need to use a pry bar to get the belt off).Note the way the belt is sitting on the remaining pulleys;draw a diagram if you have to, this will save you problems later in the installation.Remove the alternator from the top of the engine compartment.Its a tight fit but if you play with it awhile you'll get it out.9- once you have the alternator out, remove the plastic shield held on by three screws.This is a cooler and will need to be installed on a rebuilt alternator.10- Install alternator from the top of the engine compartment(the same place you removed it from.Go under the car and LOOSELY mount the two alternator bolts.While under the car reinstall the fan belt.11- From the top of the engine compartment,reattach the top alternator mounting bracket(rock alternator to & fro to line up the front bolt.Tighten both of these bolts.Reinstall the two plug-in and the one screw held alternator wires.Reinstall the Radiator hose.12- From under the car,tighten Both alternator mounting bolts.Check fan belt for proper alignment if you have a grooved alternator pulley.Reinstall the splash shields.13- Reinstall the negative battery wire.Make sure its tight.14- Check the radiator fluid level(I'm sure you lost some fluid when you disconnected it)top off as needed.14- Recheck ALL your work,make sure you don't have any left over nuts or bolts that may come back to haunt you later down the road.Are all bolts tight? are all wires connected? Is the fan belt aligned in the grooves?If you can answer yes to all these questions,lower your car off the jacks and go for a ride!!
it is located on the bottom right if you are in front of the truck. make sure that you remove the battery cable the positive side go to the starter and the alternator before you do anything else. You will need to remove all of the drive belts (A/C, power steering, then alt belt). You will need to jack the truck up in the front and secure it on jackstands. Remove the 3 wires on the back of the alternator (2 10mm nuts and one plug connector). Then there are three bolts to hold the alternator. One on top in the back, one on the bottom in the front and one on top in the front (assessable from the top).
Pull the alt loose. You may have to remove your sway bar to get it out.
In is reverse of out.
Make sure you take you battery to get it charge up. Autozone- O' Reilly's can chage the battery up.
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Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
Asked By Wiki User
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