All bumper jack bases were painted blue and measured 6 x 6". Two different part numbers could have been used for the rack. 9783363 (keystone shape) or 9781295(square shape). The handle was the same for '64-'67, Part # 9775167 . It was blue and doubled as a lugnut wrench. It had a rubber sleeve # 9785869 in '66 and '67 only. The 5 1/2" bolt that secured the jack was unfinished metal (part # 535782 ) as was the wing nut (9785616).
Your 389 heads will fit on a 400. Depending on what code you have (093?) you may have to do some porting to reach the flow numbers of a stock 400 heads just because of the smaller valves. A pair of #16 for instance in stock form had 2.19 Intake and 1.88 exhaust valves. Since originality does not seem to be a problem, also keep in mind that for a performance type rebuilt head, you are near the same $ as buying a new set of alum heads which will flow better and weigh less and handle detonation better. GL.
First of all....the stock #16 heads were 2.11/1.77. One other thing to keep in mind is that the 389 and first year of the 400 used a different valve angle head. If you use those heads on the newer style piston in the 400 make sure you check valve to piston clearance.
I had no idea that synthetic would be a differant amount. Start by putting 4 liters in than keep checking after every time you add some. Start the engine for 5-10 seconds at the full mark than check again in 30 seconds it will drop about 0.25 -0.5 liters.
The model year change over was typically the first week in August at most of the GM plants in the late 1960's.
That really can't be answered without knowing what you have and what type of restoration you are looking for. You could easily spend more on a restoration than the car will be worth.
My books only break it down by Manual and TH400 auto. But, I don't think you could get a 3 on the tree in a GTO.
Here's one link to a breakdown of the 2004 production numbers:
http://www.gtoforum.com/f2/total-gto-production-numbers-2004-2006-a-14686/
Black on Black was the most popular combination: 1,669 automatics and 1,711 manual, or 3,380 total black/black out of 15,740 total 2004 production.
Note that I have seen at other sites list total production as 15,728, but they do not have the exterior/interior color breakdown (see http://www.havican.com/GTO/2004GTOProductionFigures.pdf OR http://ultimategto.com/cgi-bin/statsexplorer.cgi?year=2004&f1=popgto).
Anyway, the breakdown numbers above should be pretty darn close.
FAQ's of ls1gto.com will serve you well
Gran Tourismo Omlagato a European race similar to LaMans and Gran Prix
A couple of different places:
- Often you can find something posted on the web, but without a model I can't point you to a specific page.
- You can also buy restorer's manuals (the green book) for a lot of old cars, I have one for the 1969 Pontiac Firebird. It's about 400 pages long, plastic covered, and has detailed diagrams and pictures for working on the car. Just working on my old car it was priceless (reduced the blood leakage rate in a major way )
- You might also find some "How to Restore My..." books at Amazon.com.
- There are also sites and companies that sell just the diagrams (not advertising for them, just offering links)
It depends on the motor and the amount of boost. Normal atmospheric pressure is 14.7 psi, so that's the condition your car is running in while naturally aspirated. If you add a turbo that provides 14.7 psi, for example, in theory you have doubled the power output of your engine. That won't actually be the case exactly because of losses to friction, heat etc....
For example.. if your car has 100hp and you add a turbo that provides 14.7 psi of boost, your car will now produce 200hp, theoretically. If your turbo puts out about 7psi (half atmospheric pressure), you will get a gain of hp totaling half of what your engine made normally, 150hp total in this case.