0
Rodeo Events
In Spanish, rodeo means "round-up" and is also correlated to the time when a group of local cowhands and ranchers had a friendly competition of who could tame the wildest horse and ride the meanest bull. Today, it is a sport in the USA, Canada, Australia/New Zealand, Mexico and South America, and includes events such as bull riding, saddle bronc, barrel racing, team roping, bareback bronc riding, calf roping, steer wrestling, wild cow milking, etc. Questions about rodeo and rodeo events can be asked and answered here.
581 Questions
How do you replace the alternator on a 1992 Dodge Caravan 3.0L?
Put socket wrench on serpentine belt tensioner and pull toward front of car and loosen belt. Make sure before you do this to have a drawing of the route of the belt over all its paths. Undo negative cable on battery. Remove bolts that hold alternator and remove. Undo nuts that hold wiring. Take new alternator and replace wires as removed with nuts. Place alternator back in bracket and replace bolts. Route serpentine belt and pull tensioner toward front and slip belt back on. Wear mechanic gloves to save skin. Make sure your battery has full charge as you don't want to burn up your replacement by making it work too hard. Very important!!!!
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Chevy S-10 2.2L?
First, disconnect a battery cable, then you have to loosen the belt. The belt tensioner is at the bottom of the engine near the alternator. Put a 3/8" socket in the square hole in it to take the tension from the belt.
The alternator is held in place with three bolts, two of them are on the rear (facing the firewall) and one is at the front. You need a 15mm socket for one of them and a 13mm for the other two. You can reach two of them from the top if you have a small arm that you can get to the back of the alternator. One bolt is hard to see, an inspection mirror is helpful, but you can feel around and find them. There is little room to fit a standard wrench or socket wrench, so it helps to have a 1/4" drive socket wrench or a set of stubby wrenches. The third bolt on the front can be reached from underneath the truck. You do not have a lot of room between the fan and the alternator to get a socket wrench to it.
After removing the three bolts, the alternator will fall out of it's mount, but you will still have difficulty removing it. You first disconnect the wiring harness. The power wire is long enough that you can get the alternator out from the underside and then remove it. The alternator will not reach the ground with the wire attached, but you can set it on a frame member and remove the power wire.
The fan shroud, belt tensioner, some hoses, and wiring get in the way, but you can carefully work the alternator out from underneath the truck, but it is a tight squeeze. It is fairly easy to work the alternator out if you remove the tensioner. There is only one bolt and it is easily accessible for underneath the truck.
One thing to remember when you remonw the bolts from the alternator is to be careful about how much stress you put on the rear bracket! If you let the alternator leverage this bracket it will bend out of place, and it makes it a serious bear to put the new alternator in! I had to do this last night on a 2000 model with the 4 cylinder engine. The key to it is to remove the plastic shrouding around the top of the radiator. There are 3 10 mm head bolts at the front lip and then two more on each side of the fan shroud. Once you get this stuff out of the way (about 10 minutes worth) the accessibility to the Alt is greatly improved. It was not necessary for me to remove the idler pulley. I used a 12 inch bar plus a 10 inch pipe extension for the idler pulley with the 3./8ths drive to rotate the pully and remove the belt. It needs to rotate roughly 90 degrees to fully get out of the way of the belt. On the 2000 model the bracket that holds the alt is cast iron and not subject to being bent. I wrapped a heavy nylon string around the drive pulley and strung it from the hood (held up with prop rod) to keep it from falling. I was able to do all of the work from the top. 1/4 drive ratchets do help given the tight space around the alt. I used a 3/8 drive ratchet to get the 15 mm bolt, the others are 13 mm as noted. Total time for me was about an hour which given it was the first time to do this particular job was not too bad. $120 for a new, not rebuilt alternator
i found this little helpful hint out when i had to do my alternator on my 2002 2.2. there's a little mudflap that folds up right by the inner fender, the thing that keeps stuff out of the engine compartment, and you can see the whole back of the alternator and you can touch all the spark plugs and everything. all you have to do is take the wheel off!!!
Always make it a habit to disconnect the negative side of the battery first and reconnect it last.
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Mercury Sable?
Pretty straight forward process. Remove the serpentine belt. Remove the leads to the old alternator. There is a bracket on the back of the alternator that attaches to the top of the motor I also removed this but cannot recall if that was necessary. Remove the bolts securing the Alternator and take it out. Reverse the process to put the new alternator back in. The most difficult part is getting the serpentine belt around the bottom pullys as there is very limited access. Thread the belt through the lower pullys first and then work on the idler/tension wheel last to get the belt mounted. I replaced the belt since I had the old one off but it did not look bad even after 110K miles. .
The above answer is a little deceiving. If you have a 12v engine, it's a lot easier than a 24v engine. On the 24v engine, it's buried in the back of the engine on the drivers side and is a pain to remove.
Yes, the 24v DOHC is tough. I thought I was going to have to take out the cv shaft, but I saw an idea was to loosen the motor mounts and carefully lift the engine to get enough clearance to get the alternator out. Put a 2x4 under the length of the oil pan and lift carefully!
How do you replace the alternator on a 1999 Kia Sephia?
i have a 98 kia sephia, and i actually had to take the (left) motor mount off to raise the engine to allow removal clearance. use a regular floor jack but choose a good spot and a scrap piece of wood to lift motor. using caution and a little patience, it can be done. p.s. the oem kia alternator , is surprisingly cheap.....and the quality is that of what kia fans can expect....?! good luck
I recommend removing the intake manifold to allow clearance, no matter what the design is less than helpful as it should not be necessary to do that ...30 minute job turns into 2 hour job
Hey. You got to start off by taking off you alternator belt. Once that is dont you got to then take your the intake off. Once your intake is off you then take the two bolts, one concter and you positive off the alternator then it will then slide out. Remember when taking off alternator clean conector before putting in new one. Be patient... Good Luck.
Damn this 3rd answer. Someone needs to take a spelling class
My Chilton's manual makes this sound really easy, but its like birthing a baby using forceps, but you don't need to remove the intake manifold or jack up the engine. Here is what I did.
1. Unbolt the main electrical cable from the alternator.
2. Unplug the control wires. The plug has a locking clip that must be pushed toward the wiring.
3. Loosen the pivot bolt on the bottom of the alternator, which has to be reached from underneath the car.
4. Then from above loosen the tensioning bolt and the tensioning mounting bolt. Remove the belt and remove the bolts. Remove the tensioning bracket and tensioning bracket bolt. (Chilton's says to just swing it out of the way, but it wouldn't stay out of the way, and you need all the room you can make)
5. Unclip the fuel line from its mounting clips and gently push the fuel line out of the way.
6. Disconnect all the power steering lines and get them out of the way. This makes a mess unless you drain the power steering fluid first or plug the open tubes with caps or plugs. Remove the power steering line mounting bracket. Also take off the mounting bolt for the A/C lines.
7. Take a piece of 14 gage wire or a coat hangar and hook it on to the alternator like a handle, so you can pull on the alternator without having your hands in the way.
8. Gently pull the alternator out with one hand pulling on the wire handle and the other hand pushing all the other tubes out of the way. I found that the pinch point was between the end of the fuel rail and the air conditioning lines. The skinniest part of the alternator is perpendicular to the rotor and between the mounting points.
9. Disconnect nearest cable from the cruise control box. Mine just twisted off with a 1/4 turn.
10. Installation is the reverse of removal.
If you just remove the power steering brackets you can get it far enough out of the way to remove the alternator
How do you replace the alternator on a 1998 Ford Contour V6?
V-6
to start unhook battery and get the drive belt off tension pulley
then get the car in the air either by lift or as high as you can on jack stands
then remove both front wheels,on passenger side remove plastic cover surrounding wheel well,
once removed you can see the bottom bolt on the alternator and can reach it with a 1/2 inch drive rachet and 13mm socket
from under the car between the rack and pinion and the firewall
now you need to remove the y-pipe and this will let you not only see the top bolt from under the car ,and the drivers wheel well
to do this unbolt manifolds and where y pipe connects to the cat you will need to carefully use vise grips and pull the pins out of the studs to remove them
attach vise grips to pin and slowly rotate pin back and forth to get it loose and work the pin out twisting back and forth
the studs are DISCONTINUED AND LAST COST 45 BUCKS EACH SO BE CAREFUL
but also can see top bolt from driver side wheel well
which is where you have to access it from ,
using a 13mm and a 1/2 inch drive extension 36 inches long or longer ,weave it through from the driver side wheel well and get top bolt out
then pry alternator from cradle ,this may take some effort
turn it to access wires,and the plugs remove wire and plugs
pop passenger side tie rod end and carefully finish removeing the alternator from the car,once again this may take some effort
the install is in reverse
WIRES FIRST,THEN
LINE UP BOTTOM BOLT FIRST AND GET IT STARTED THEN START THE TOP BOLT,,MAKE SURE ALL BOLTS AND WIRES ARE TIGHT BEFORE REINSTALLING THE Y PIPE
take your time
on the y PIPE
IT'S NOT EASY BUT CAN BE DONE IN A COUPLE OF HOURS
1. Put the front of the car on jackstands and dis-connect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove passenger side wheel and lower splash guards. Using low profile 3/8" socket wrench or breaker bar, remove the serpentine belt from the alternator pulley.
3. Dis-connect the passenger side tie rod from the knuckle.
4. remove the driver side wheel.
5. Get 3 or 4 feet of extensions for your 3/8 socket wrench and feed them through the driver side wheel well to the upper bolt of the alternator. Yo may need to secure the socket & extensions on the bolt from up top then get back down to the driver wheel well, but it's worth the few seconds. Remove the upper bolt.
6. From below the car, loosen the lower bolt, but do not remove.
7. There is a small bracket on the alternator between mounting bolts. Remove the 10mm bolt that secures the bracket to the block.
8. From above, pry the upper tab from the mounting bracket.
9. Below the car, hold the alternator while removing the lower bolt.
10. Dis-connect the electrical to the Alternator.
11. Maneuver the alternator out through the passenger side wheel well. Takes a little thinking, but it'll come out.
12. Transfer the small bracket to the new alternator.
13. Feed the alternator in through the passenger side and make electrical connections.
14. Secure the lower alternator tab and hand tighten the lower bolt.
15. Pivot the alternator up. The upper tab may not easily fit into place. Tighten the 10mm bolt in the center bracket to the block. This will press the upper tab into place.
16. Install the upper bolt and hand tighten. Fully tighten the lower bolt now.
17. Use extensions from the driver wheel well to tighten the upper bolt.
Remainder of this project is simple re-assembly. An experienced shade tree mechanic can do this alternator R&R in under an hour after his tools are set out.
I looked at mine once (1995 model) while doing something else. If the answer provided is true, you're lucky because I'd swear you'd have to drop the engine sub frame on my car. Even after removing the right side wheel-well plastic liner and belt shroud that covers the AC/serpentine belt, I'd bet dollars to doughnuts that you'd never get it out past the exhaust, steering rack and sub frame. Not to mention that the alternator pivot bolt head faces the inside of the engine compartment. Methinks the answer you got refers to a 4 cylinder model.
I've also read somewhere that the 95 V6 version requires removing the passenger driver axle....FYI
Just had the alternator replaced on my 1998 Contour, six cylinder. The belt was replaced, also the idler pulley do to worn bearings. The passenger side axel had to be replaced, the threads where damaged in the removal process. I saw a connection rod was also taken loose. All this just to get to the alternator. "It's just a better idea" Total cost was very near 500.00. I have found that most any repair on the contour has been expensive. Parts seem to be a bit scarse.
,
perhaps a better method is to simply cut the front right hand side of the car off, change the alternator and weld it back in place. This would surely be less time consuming and cause less aggrivation.
well my wife's car is a 98 Cotour v6 2.5L DOHC and yes it is easier to remover the passenger side CV Axel not the Drive Axel. but the alternator will still come out with out doing so it just help the instillation process go smother and in my eyes its just a hassle to remove/take apart more then is needed to get the job done.
2000 v6 contour - Technically very easy but physically demanding.
The first answer and the steps shown are very concise and totally correct for the V6 contour. - The whole job is very fiddly, especially if you are laying on your back with the car on stands.
Steps 1 through 3 are required before you get to the alternator.
After removal of the serpentine belt - I would suggest replacing your idler pulley and tensioner pulley if over 100K miles. ($10-$15 each and an extra 30mins)
You can remove the alternator without moving to the drivers side of the vehicle.
Use 3/8 sockets and extensions (no knuckle joint) to get you to the drivers side of the exhaust downpipe. Then undo the upper bolt first, do not remove bolt fully. Now undo the lower bolt which is more difficult and needs a similar path(drivers side of the downpipe) but different route to reach the bolt. Remove the bolt fully. 13mm.
Note - Both bolts will be very tight !!
Next remove the UPPER bracket bolt on the small rear bracket completely. 10mm Use 3/8" drive and a knuckle joint right after the socket, route it downwards on the passenger side of exhaust downpipe.
Now you can try to remove the wiring - for me it was too tight at this stage.
Remove the upper bolt completely. Stay under the car - Prise/wiggle the alternator off the upper saddle mount. Be careful do not stretch the wiring, it was very tight on my car. Whilst still laying under the car, maneuver the alternator for better access to the wiring, remove the thick wire, using a wrench. 8mm. Next push in the plug retainer wire toward the alternator body and pull off the 3 wire electrical plug. Lastly prise off the charge light plug, be very careful not to break this plug or its retainer finger.
Now go take a short break and clean up !!
Remove the pass wheel.
Remove the pass. tie rod from the spindle housing M14 and then use a tie rod breaker, do not damage the rubber dust shield or thread. Remove pass. roll bar link from the strut, use a 17mm wrench on the back, M15 nut front, I used a pneumatic hammer driver, as this was very tight and corroded.
Remove the small wheel well plastic cover 2 bolts 10mm.
Now wiggle and pull out the alternator through the hole, rotate as necessary.
Hey presto you are half way done........ (If you have ECL trouble codes for Oxygen sensors, now is a good time to change both bank 2 sensors ($36-$40 each) use m22 wrench - easy without alternator there - its no problem !)
Remove the rear bracket make a note of the orientation and transfer to the new alternator do not tighten the bolt fully, allow bracket to move under light force. Now reassemble the new alternator.
You will need lots of 3/8 extensions to get to the exact length to work. ie the difference between a deep reach socket and std socket can be the difference between success and failure trying to get onto the bolt head.
Took me 7hrs total but I did change both o2 sensors and pulleys - I would consider paying for the alternator job next time. I could not have done this in less than 2.5hrs even the 2nd time around. Book time is probably around 1 to 2 hours. You will need patience and determination.CH
How do you replace the alternator on a 1998 Chevy Silverado 1500?
i'd recommend buying a Hayes repair manual for your specific type of car. They can easlily be found at auto parts stores such as auto zone. they can be very helpful for future DIY repairs.
if its a V-8 there are 2 bolts a wired plug and a single wire with a ring terminal connector on it and of course the serpantine belt.
