Shrub Fertilizer

Improved soil fertility and disease resistance are results of using bio fertilizers instead of chemical fertilizers.

Specifically, bio fertilizers are nitrogen fixing bacteria and phosphate solubilizing bacteria and fungi. They develop symbiotic relationships that are mutually beneficial to the micro-organisms and plant roots. They release nutrients back slowly enough in the soil that plants have the time to direct them into activities other than growth, such as disease resistance and stress tolerance.

Biofertilizer is still an unclear term. It can be easily found that biofertilizers are identified as plant extract, composted urban wastes, and various microbial mixtures with unidentified constituents, and chemical fertilizer formulations supplemented with organic compounds. Likewise, the scientific literature has a very open interpretation of the term biofertilizer, representing everything from manures to plant extracts.
However biofertilizer is most commonly referred to the use of soil microorganisms to increase the availability and uptake of mineral nutrients for plants.

They are available in the nature in natural form.

for example; certain sedophores which are the group of iron producing bacterias, they provide iron to the plants for their nourishment.

similarly, Baccilis subtilis realeses phosphorus and pseudomonas floresence produces sulphur.

The ability to absorb moisture is what is meant by the hygroscopicity of fertilizer materials.

Specifically, the moisture absorption is an important characteristics of fertilizers. Everything must be taken in dissolved form by plant roots. Fertilizer materials that cannot absorb moisture or that have limited atmospheric or soil moisture to absorb will not be taken in by plant roots and in fact cause damage just by being located in undissolved form near plant underground body parts.

Phosphorus is an acid-forming element that is in garden fertilizer.

Specifically, phosphorus is a major nutrient ingredient in garden fertilizer. It can be broken down into phosphoric acid. Garden fertilizer also contains nitrogen and potassium as its other two main nutrient ingredients. Potassium is an alkaline-forming element.

Compost tea is a homemade, liquid fertilizer.

Specifically, this homemade fertilizer involves compost and water. The compost comes from the breaking down of carbon and nitrogen rich materials into dark brown, fresh smelling, nutrient rich particles. It benefits from dilution in water until the color and consistency are tealike. It acts to encourage intake by plant roots since the nutrients are in the preferred, dissolved form.

That they may disrupt them is the way in which chemical fertilizers affect natural food chains.

Specifically, healthy soil food webs draw on about 16-17 naturally occurring nutrients within the soil. Chemical fertilizers emphasize nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium as the three main macronutrients for fast-growing, productive plants. They therefore may damage or disrupt or even destroy natural food chains what with their incomplete, unbalanced provision of only a few of the nutrients necessary for soil food web diversity.

Fertilization is the practice of introducing essential plant nutrients into a turfgrass community.

I like to think that the act of fertilization is slightly comparable to peoples eating habits. Just like people, a healthy lawn requires a balanced diet. Depending on your location, your environment naturally supplies certain plant nutrients on its own. Some examples would be decomposing leaves acting as compost, or the way that lightening releases nitrogen to the soil; even rain water can supply turf many helpful nutrients.

If the nutrients supplied by the environment were to be compared to an item out of our diets, it would be like bread, butter and water. You could likely live following a diet of bread, butter and water, but you most likely wouldn't be considered "healthy". Your immune system would likely weaken, and I would assume you would have very much energy. When you don't fertilize you're lawn, you're basically asking it to live off from bread, butter and water. The lawn is going to be weak. Its going to be susceptible to heavy weed and disease pressure. Its not going to thrive the way it could if it had a balanced diet. Fertilizing balances your lawns diet.

Your lawn has essential mineral elements that it needs in order to reach its potential and stay healthy.

Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K) compose your Macro Nutrients. These are the three numbers that are typically boldly labeled on the bag, the product analysis. These are the three key components in most products, and usually are available in the largest quantity, per application.

Sulfur (S), Calcium (Ca) and Magnesium (Mg) make up the Secondary Nutrients. These elements are all critical for a healthy lawn, assisting the Macro Nutrients.

Iron (Fe), Manganese (Mn), Boron (B), Copper (Cu), Zinc (Zn), Molybdenum (Mo) and Chlorine (Cl) are the smallest required quantity, and they are known as Micro Nutrients. These nutrients are like your vitamins. Look at the elements, most of them are found in vitamins. Just like vitamins assist a balanced diet, these Micro Nutrients do the same for your turf.

To sum things up, fertilizer is a combination of all, or some of the nutrients listed above. When properly applied, they promote a healthy lawn that will be more weed tolerant and disease tolerant than an unfertilized lawn.

I hope this helps, I could have given you a text book answer, but I wanted to do it in more of a fun, easier to understand way. Some fertilizers require a professional applicator to apply them. If you are considering fertilization for your lawn, visit www.SmartLawnQuote.com and we will get you up to 4 quotes from your area's top fertilization applicators. Our service is 100% free for homeowners to use. For environmental reasons, proper application is a must, and SmartLawnQuote.com will be your most efficient way to find a licensed applicator.

Well that's kind of an easy question some disadvantages to organic fertilizer is that

1.)its way to expensive to buy

2.)it takes along time to start to work in the soil that it has been put in

3.)the organic fertilizers release the nutrients in a very very very very VERY s.....l......o.....wmanner(way).

Palm fertilizer is what is best for cabbage palm trees (Sago palmetto).

Specifically, cabbage palm trees benefit from specialty fertilizers. They do not need heavy nitrogen nutrient inputs. Instead, they have to have fertilizers with a higher percentage nutrient weight in phosphorus. They also like their fertilizers to include magnesium and manganese, nutrients in which they easily become deficient.

An acidifying fertilizer or compost are the best fertilizers for gardenia shrubs (Gardenia spp).

Specifically, gardenias appreciate soils that are more acidic than neutral. They therefore benefit from acidifying fertilizers that keep the soil pH below the neutral range of 6.5-7.0 on the 1-14 scale. They get the same benefits when compost is applied at fertilizer along the drip line or as mulch. Additionally, compost as mulch controls weedy competitors, favors drainage, increases soil fertility and keeps temperatures even.

Dilution and supplemental irrigation are precautions that a gardener can take so that chemical fertilizers stimulate plant growth without damaging plant roots when the concentration is too high.

Specifically, a too high concentration can be corrected by diluting the fertilizer to its correct concentration. A supplemental watering schedule can be put into effect. Adequate soil moisture levels help plant roots take in too highly concentrated fertilizers.

A fertilizer with chelated iron is the best fertilizer for evergreens with yellow needles.

Specifically, yellowed needles indicate chlorosis. Chlorosis is a chlorophyll deficiency whereby needles do not turn the expected green in color. It may be corrected by chelated iron treatments in addition to any fertilizing schedule already in effect.

Compost or leaf litter are the best fertilizers for maple trees (Acer spp).

Specifically, maple trees benefit from ground cover that is most like their native habitat. Compost can be applied as a fertilizer along the drip line or as a mulch from about 5 inches (12.5 centimeters) from the trunk out to the drip line. Leaf litter also is a natural fertilizer option.

Otherwise, maple trees need no fertilization schedules if they grow in grass, lawn or turf that is on a regular fertilizer application schedule.