I've got 260,000 on my original engine and trans on my 94. Change your oil.
Yeah... what Dgniner said.. CHANGE YOUR OIL every 3,000 miles and your trans fluid every 50,000 mi. (assuming it is an automatic) and your '97 will run forever. I had a '96 with 389,000 original miles on it when I sold it and I still see it running around town from time to time.
If by chance by "rear lights" you mean backup lights and yours are not working, consider that the switch is faulty. That part goes into the transmission from the outside. The reason I'm telling you this is because our 5th gen Celica had backup light trouble and after all was said and done, we found out it was the switch. .
there is also a small fuse box with rear light fuses on the driver side under the dash. good luck.
First disconnect your negative side of your battery and don't do any work on the column for two minutes cause the airbag has a backup capacitor and could go off. Then straighten out your steering wheel. On the backside of the steering wheel there is two panels that pop right off. You then have two torx screws on each side that hold the airbag in. Once you get them off then you will have one bolt in the middle of the steering wheel. The auto parts store say you have to have a steering wheel puller but you dont need it. Hit the each side of the steering wheel a couple of times and it should pull right off.
Alternatively, if you haven't got an airbag (no 1992 Celi I've had has had one), you need to undo one screw in the back of the steering wheel, on the bottom half, before you can remove the front "horn" panel. Once you've done that, a suitable sized socket will remove the nut that attaches the wheel to the column.
Once that's removed, you might have to give the wheel a sharp smack to loosen it from the column splines. On reinstallation, make sure you tighten the nut up nice 'n' tight.
if your user manual you should have instructions... for me i have to put the key into the run position, then press the accelerator to the floor 3 times slowly, WITHOUT the car running and it resets.
I have a Toyota Celica GT 2002 and I found a box on the passenger side bye the stick shift pannel, there are some fuses there, I my self found that one and two under the hood but I am still looking for fuse for the mirrors, mine has electric mirrors and it seems that the fuse is out, but can't find it. I hope this helps to your question!
4.8 quarts for GT-S 2ZZ-GE with filter change exactally....
is it an st or a GT i know that the fuse for the inside light,clock, and radio is in the fuse box next to the car battery
jack up car in air with jack stands safety first. get a floor jack with a peice of 2 by 4 under the engine and trans pans and remove bolts securing moter mounts to frame slowly jack up engine just enough to remove mounts work slowly because if you move the engine to much you can break something that's not meant to be stretched. do one at a time to keep it simple quality over speed and there should be 3 to 4 mounts usually two on top by the fenders and two in the center of the engine underneath front and back.
The above is a good general answer about replacing motor mounts... but not entirely accurate.
90-93 Celicas have four motor mounts. One is underneath in the front by the radiator, one is in the lower rear by the firewall, one is on the passenger side near the top by the strut tower, and the last is on the driver's side, sandwiched in above the trans and below part of the frame.
The two that usually go bad are the front and rear lower, and both are fortunately easy to change. After jacking up the car and supporting safely as mentioned above, you will need to drop the center fore-aft engine crossmember, which is held on by bolts to the main subframe. Both mounts are attached to this sucker. You probably won't need to even support the engine to change these, but keep your jack handy in case you need to "rock" the engine back and forth to line up the bolt holes. Simply unbolt the mounts and install the new ones.. not brain surgery. The hardest part is getting the car jacked up.
As far as the two side mounts go, they are a little more challenging. You probably will not need to jack up the entire car, but you will still need a jack to support the engine during surgery.
Here's some illustrations. Many thanks to celicatech.com for the illustrations, and countless invaluable tips on keeping these ol' rice grinders going.
You will absolutely need to support the engine during this procedure. Once all the bolts are removed, jack it up a hair to facilitate the installation of the new mount. This would also be a good time to change your timing belt and water pump, as this mount must be removed to do so.
Once again, you will need to support the engine. This is not as easy as the picture makes it out to be, as getting to some of the bolts is very hard. There is quite a lot of stuff in the way here. Have patience.
depending on if you have a trunk or hatch model this can vary a little bit.
when you pop the hatch there will be a little cap over a screw on the top of the taillight that can be taken off.Unscrew the screw underneath.the furthest out lense of the taillight (usually red) will have to be pop'd off also, put a flathead screw driver in between the lense and the rest of the taillight lense. pry it but becareful, this tends to break easily.there should be 2 screws there that need to be taken out, after they are out, apply a little pressure to the taillight to pop it out of the brackets that are holding it in.hope that helps.
Every 60,000 miles, according to both corroborating online sources cited below, http://www.familycar.com/carcare/GatesFrame.htm http://autorepair.about.com/od/glossary/ss/timin-belt-inf2_7.htm However, since the 96 Celica has a non-interference engine*, a broken timing belt will not damage your engine as it would on these makes and models of Toyotas: TOYOTA
1986-95 1.5L Tercel
1981-83 2.2L Pickup
1984-87 2.4L Pickup
1982-88 2.8L Celica Cressida
1987-94 3.0L 4-Runner
http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/toyota-celica-articles.html So unless you were having other problems, your worst case scenario is the car would just stop running and you would have to get it towed in to get the timing belt replaced. But if you're having the timing belt replaced, or if your having any kind of an oil leak, you might want to price having these items addressed because the the extra labor cost should be negligible since they would already be in there replacing the timing belt. Crankshaft Front Oil Seal
Oil Pump Gasket/O-Ring
Oil Pump Seal
Valve Cover Gasket Spark Plug Tube Seals (have a little oil in one tube)
Oil Pan Gasket
...and possibly change the Water Pump and Thermostat ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- *If the timing belt breaks on a non-interference design, there is enough clearance between the pistons and valves to prevent damaging contact. An interference design does not have sufficient clearance between those parts and engine damage would result from a broken timing belt.
sometimes you can pull up on the coushion and see 2 bolts one on each side some have plastic clips on each side pull them and it will release the seat the hardest ones are when you have to sit in the seat do this on each side, sit down and as hard as you can push back and pull up at the same time. good luck
Where is the coolant dripping from?
- if it's dripping from the overflow reservoir (jug that holds acts as a reservoir for antifreeze): means there's too much coolant in the reservoir; it should only be filled to the 'full' or 'max' line - not 100% full
- if it's leaking out of a small hole in the water pump, it means the pump seal is gone and the pump needs to be replaced. This is a very common problem in older Celica's
- if it leaking from a hose, tighten it slightly (or replace if cracked)
- if it's leaking from the radiator, get the radiater repaired/replaced: NOTE: there is a drain valve on the bottom of the radiator that you should be able to finger-tighten if it's not completely shut off. Make sure it's snuggly tightenen BY HAND (if you use a tool and tighten it too hard , it'll break)
Overall, the car shouldn't leak antifreeze: Jap motors are more-tightly designed that North Am. cars and if you've got a leak, something is loose, broken or worn out.
Note that if it's just water (have a taste on your fingertip, but don't go overboard!), coming from the rear of the engine compartment, it could just be condensing from the air conditioner. Happens particulalry in hot weather.
Which is perfectly fine and nothing to worry about.
I have a 1988 Toyota Celica and I had to replace the entire exhaust and it was approx $800.Answeri have an 87 Toyota celica GT and i just took mine down to Marco muffler and they took out out ALL of the mufflers and replaced them with one glasspack (that i provided) and put 2 and a half inch pipe out the back. They wanted $80 and i talked them down to $50. Sounds pretty nice. Not like a rice rocket, but a lower growl.
price your starter at local auto parts store. most starters can be replace in about an hour or two. should only cost you for starter if you are going to do the work yourself.
You need to figure out whats wrong by process of elimination...Locate the two heater hoses that come off the engine and go into the firewall (the wall behind the engine). These two hoses lead to your heater core (like a miniature radiator behind that wall) With the engine hot, feel the hoses (usually one on top and one beneath, on the left when you are facing the rear of the car) When the engine is hot, and BOTH hoses are hot, that means your heater core is plugged.(least likely). If that's the case you need someone to flush out the core, under preassure. The most likely scenerio is that one or both of the hoses are COLD to touch. This means the thermostat is not working right and needs to be replaced. A bad thermostat will not open and make your engine run "cold" which will also KILL your gas mileage. A good mechanic should be able to replace a thermostat without bankrupting you! Thiswould be the best and easiest problem you could wish for. Best of Luck!!Answerlow coolant or a bad water pump could be the problem, but there was no mention of overheating so neither of those are likely causes. i suspect that you have a control problem. the heater core is encased in a box that has flaps on it to allow either air to flow over it(heat mode), or to bypass it(cool mode). if the flaps don't work for any number of reasons, and are stuck in bypass then you wouldn't get heat. and both heater hoses would be hot (not necessarily a plugged core). the first place i check on these is the heater valve. one of the heater hoses connects to it. its under the hood connected to the firewall and has a lever that is operated by a cable from the heater control. if the cable is disconnected and the valve is closed, you wont get any heat. the problem with this car is access to the valve is very difficult due to the size of the engine compartment and the overhang of the windshield support. probably best left to a mechanic. Answersame problem in my 2002 celica, quart and a half low on antifreeze, lots of heat now
haynes manual for complete tear down and rebuild helped me through all my celica projects. p.s. my celica is an '87 gts i think the book's details ranges from '86-'93 or something like that. is was an amazing investment.
nope, different mounting points/heights etc
pain in the butt thers a couple of different hose's thers low side (low pressure) and hi side (hi pressure) im assumeing your talking about thehi side seeing how the extra pressure speeds the wear and tear you'll have to jack the car in the air with stand or a car lift if your serious about doing this job. the hose connects to the PS pump with a not sounds simple and it is but the room you need to do this is kind of tight then on the other end it connects to the rack and pinion you may need a line rench to remove the line on the side of the rack. after removal and instalation top off PS fluid start car and turn wheel back and forth until noise goes away pump 3 to 5 seconds.
take the old one off first then put the new one on in the reverse of the old.
You need to move the overflow radiator jug out of the way, just pull up, then take off the cap of cruise control - if you have one. There are two bolts that need to be removed... the one at the top is a 14MM nut and undo that one. The other one is a 12MM bolt on the bottom and you need a flexible wrench to get at it. The exhaust probe is in the way and you will destroy it if you are not careful Last nut to losen is the tension nut below the belt. Losen this bolt a lot.
Once the two bolts are undone, use a rubber mallot and gently knock the alternator down. It will come out. Take the new alternator and slide it in. You can twist it around the belt and down or perhaps pull the belt on after... but its tight... actually a good idea to buy a new belt.
Then put in the 14MM bolt in, but don't tighten it. Put the 12MM bolt in, remember how it goes, from the exhaust probe to the cruise control. Tighten the 12MM bolt. tighten the 14MM bolt. Tighten the 10 MM tension back to where it was..... and... it should be fine.
Replace the speed sensor on your rear end, dont wait too long or your spedo will start to go bad!
If a computer is hooked up it should retrieve stored codes. it could be anything from a wiring problem in the transmission harness or bad solenoid.
The PCV valve is located on the top of the valve cover. To test the PCV valve, start the engine, pull the valve out of the valve cover and put your thumb over the hole in the end. If you hear a little click, then the PCV valve is good. If there is no vacuum at the hole, either the valve is bad or the hose is bad. To see if the hose is bad, pull the hose off and put your thumb over the end. If there is vacuum, replace the PCV valve. If not, replace the hose. It's important to note that PCV valves are sized for specific engine applications. The wrong PCV valve for an application can flow too much or too little air causing driveability problems.
Hi there, I hope these are what you want Head - 58 ft-lbs Cylinder Head-To-Timing Cover Bolt - 108 in-lbs Camshaft Bearing Cap Bolts - 14 ft-lbs Camshaft Sprocket Bolt - 68 ft-lbs Exhaust Mainifold Bolts - 33 ft-lbs Intake Manifold Bolts - CARB 14-28 ft-lbs, EFI 14 ft-lbs if you need anymore specs email me firstname.lastname@example.org
whats a bonnet
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