Toyota Cressida

Follow the upper radiator hose (The biggest hose at the top of the radiator) follow it away from the radiator towards the engine. The hose will attach to the "thermostat housing" located somewhere on the engine block. Unbolt the "thermostat housing" and the thermostat is right there. Remove it and install the new one BUT make sure the point is facing the right direction (there should be an arrow on the new thermostat if you don't remember how the old one was), ALSO make sure the new thermostat is not cockeyed where it sits, it must be perfectly flush down in the little recess or else you will break the thermostat housing when you tighten it down. also, you obviously need to get a new gasket for the thermostat housing, some cars use o-rings, some use gaskets, and some use RTV silicone, I don't know what the corolla uses. It's a fairly simple job and shouldn't take long at all.

The above location doesn't apply to the 1600 DX engine.

***Addition: I was working on my 96 'rolla tonight, and I'm certain the thermostat is NOT attached to the upper hose on the radiator. That hose goes straight to the block. Mine's a 96, but I didn't think things changed until the 98s.

Assuming that there weren't any major changes made to the designs between 98 and 2000, here is how I removed mine. The plastic speaker covers are attached permanently to the upholstry so rather than trying to remove them, you need to disconnect the upper breaklight by sliding it off and then unplugging it. Next, slide the entire upholstry piece off. It's all one large piece. Now, you just disconnect and unscrew the speakers. !

Try to use Toyota speaker adapter plugs so you don't need to cut wires and mess the electric system up. You can get them from Ebay or Amazon.

It is easier to do if you install the torque convertor to the transmission and then attempt to bolt it to the flywheel. You will have to turn the convertor or flywheel to line up the bolt holes.

Not easy on some of these cars because of limited working space.Bu t remove the neg bat cable then the wires from the alt then the bolts holding it on.

ok real good answer,not.thats the most basic answer i have ever seen.come on,there are 2 main bolts to remove.one on top one at the bottom facing the same way as the top one.there are 2 wire sets to remove,one will need a socket and the other is a clip.to remove the belt there is a tension bar.the bar is almost an L shape with two connected pieces,to the left are two small bolts,leave them alone.look at the biggest bolt in the middle that holds the bar on,right above that is the bolt you will need to crank clockwise to loosen the belt.mine was broken off so i just stuck a torqe bar in there and cranked it twords the front of the car until the belt was loose enough.then just reverse everything to put back on.

Now lets see... It doesn't come with a tachometer clearly...So either you purchase a new one, hook it up to a engine management system,Or know where the rev limiter hits a go from ear for the rest of your life. The car is a beast for the most part. I have over 200K miles on mine,have ran it with little to no oil numerously & it still will hang with most older model jettas civic ects. I have a 1.5l. have been 117mph in it, Full on parallel E-Brake parked,Have gone around a turn fast enough for the back end to start coming around (55-65) Too sketchy at 65. Beached it. Trailed it. 93 octane,regular oil changes,head gaskets(2) on a count of high rpms. I'm sure the little thing will keep on chugging for another 200k.