VW Super Beetle

well make sure it's connected, under the car, behind the engine you should see something that looks like a muffler with pots connecting towards the front of the car, these should have hoses from them going into the car, and WORKING levers on the top of these HEATER BOXES, next make sure that the two yellow leavers next to the driver and passenger seats are operational, next make sure that the vents under the rear seat and foot wells of the front seats are open and nowt broken.

try putting a voltage regulator in it. Should help out.

It was VW's answer to the USA's crash test requirements. VW stretched the front end a couple of feet, changed the steering wheel shaft, strut type suspension, etc., to meet the new requirements and to add a few refinements.

in the front under the spare tire and on bthe floor pan under the ack seat

First, you need a timing light. Loosen the nut at the base of the distributor just enough so that it can be rotated. With the engine running at idle, point the light at the top of the rotating main pulley. They'll be some marks (notches) that comes up on top-dead-center (when the light flashes). You rotate the distributor until the proper mark is in the correct position, in relation to the split in the engine case as your reference. However, that's the trick, you have to look up you model and/or engine code(if it's been replaced) and cross reference the proper timing for your particular engine. The "How to keep your Volkswagen Alive" by John Muir is an excellent source for this issue and many other repairs. Once you've got it where it should be, tighten the distributor nut, remove your light and take it for a drive. Good luck. Set the valves first. Valve adjustments can affect timing.

It should.. I have a 79 1600cc in my 65 beetle.

It depends on whether you've got a stock crank pulley or one with degrees printed on it.

The first thing you do is set the valves. Then look at the crank pulley. If it's stock there's a notch in it. Some people put white paint in this notch to make it easier to see.

Next, get a timing light and a 10mm nutdriver. Hook up the timing light and start the engine. Hold the distributor in your left hand, loosen the distributor clamp and point the timing light at the crank pulley. Pull the trigger on the timing light and look at the pulley.

Stock pulley: notch pointing at the seam in the engine case. (If you have three notches on the pulley, use the one to the right.)

Degree wheel pulley: "5" mark to the left of the 0 line pointing at the seam in the case.

Slowly turn the distributor until the mark lands where it's supposed to.

Now for the important part: grab onto the throttle lever on the carb and pull it toward you as hard as you can. If the engine doesn't lose RPMs before it accelerates, you're done. If it does, turn the distributor just a tiny bit and try it again.

Once you're done, tighten the distributor clamp and call it a day.

3.5mm

The Super Beetle has a slightly longer body (front end) and more modern McPherson front suspension instead of the torsion tube type.

I am not certain about decoding the VIN number of our superbeetles.....but my VIN number is 1342095288! Our cars were born pretty close together. Edit: 113 beginning numbers with a 10 digit code indicates a 1973 Type 1 Beetle.

I can think of three "oil systems" you might want to put in a Classic Beetle: full-flow oiling, a high-capacity oil sump, and an external oil cooler. In order from least to most desirable: The only reason you MIGHT want an external oil cooler on a VW engine is if you're a desert racer. SCORE Class I cars and SCCA Formula Vee cars all have coolers, but those coolers are extremely expensive. Don't put one on a street car. If your street engine's overheating, there are a few things it could be: tin not on right, improper carb jetting, flaps and thermostat not installed, and the big one: TIMING!!! I've seen LOTS of overheating VW engines and almost all of them had the timing set wrong. Full-flow oiling is a mixed bag. There's a way to do it right, and it involves tearing the engine apart and having the main oil gallery tapped for the return line, with the return port on the oil pump plugged and a special pump cover installed. There's also a way to do it wrong, and that's to install a "filter pump." Those do two bad things--overheat the oil (they're very close to the muffler) and reduce oil pressure. Now for the oil sump: So long as you use a good sump, like a Berg (the only connection I have with them is a lot of my money is in their bank account), this is a very good thing to do to your car. Stock VWs hold 2.5 liters of oil, which isn't enough. The smallest sump on the market will increase this to 4 quarts, and they're finned for extra heat dissipation. Plus, they just bolt on so anyone can install one.

A few of the cars had a mid year model change so it's best to get the "Bentley" Service Manual (the orange one) for about $15.00 US. It's got the diagrams and everything else. It has just about every thing you will ever need to know. It's the official one.

Things you should find out is what MONTH was your car made. Is it an early or late year '71, '72, '73, etc.

Check bulbs Check hi-low switch

A Super is a Super, but most guys would say either a 1972 (last year of flat windshields, which makes the car look more like a "classic" Bug) or a 1973 (first year of curved windshield, last year of small taillights).

The jack goes under the quarter window (back side). There should be a metal sleeve under the running board to slide jack into. My recomendation is to buy a small bottle jack or other hydraulic type.

Dear sir I also have a 74 VW auto shift and I had the same problem here last year and there is a diaphragm that went bad on mne I can't remembe what it is called but it is rubber diapram that creates the vacuam which allows you to shift gears. You can get the Diaphram at the Bugcity website out of Berlin CT Good luck with your Bug

Matt

Google "Chuck's Convertible Parts". He sells a booklet that tells you how to do it. Even with the book, its a lot of work and can be very frustrating. You can certainly do it but it might be worth it to have a professional do it, especially if you are restoring the car and want a "show car" look.

early beetles until 1968 had 5 x 205 mm

from '68 on, it was 4 x 130 mm

From 25 to 30 mpg. It all depends on how you drive it, city or hi-way driving, fast or slow. The bugs are really reliant on keeping the valves adjusted for better running and mileage.

Yes it should do

1600cc, means 1,600 "Cubic Centimeters".

If I remember fight, it's the measurement of a motors total piston cylinder volume. The space in each cylinder. In a four cylinder 1600cc motor, each piston area has a volume of 400cc. 4x400cc=1600cc.

Or 1600cc=1.6L, (Liters).

Or 1600cc=98ci, (Cubic Inches).

Call a locksmith he can make you one on the spot.

The rear windows on a 1979 Super Beetle convertible are replaced by prying away the rubber molding holding the glass in place. The glass can then be slowly lifted away before new sealant and glass is installed.