Many vehicles have a lock that prevents the transmission from being shifted into gear accidentally. If the transmission won't shift when you press on the brake, it's probably either the switch on the brake pedal, or the solenoid that releases the shifter. My 2004 Honda Odessey did the same thing. I figured it out when I noticed that the horn was also out, and the brake lights wouldn't work. There is a 20Amp "Stop" fuse located in the main under-hood fuse box on the left side of the engine compartment. If that fuse blows, it takes power from the horn and the brake switch on the brake pedal. Without that brake switch, the shift lock solenoid also looses power and you can't shift out of Park. If you can't replace the fuse, you can manually release the shift lever lock by prying off that little rectangular cover on the top of the steering wheel shaft housing. Once the little cover is off, you can insert a key or small screwdriver into the slot and press down to release the shift lever. The owners manual describes how to do this. Just check the index under "Shift lever locked". The manual says to turn the car off, and then use a key to release the shift lever. Once the lever is out of the "Park" position, move the lever down to "Neutral" and start the car. If you can't replace that Stop fuse you will have to do this every time you put the shifter back in Park. Hpwever, you should not drive the car because you will have no break lights!!!
I have had the same problem with my 2002 Buell Blast, where when you shift to first, or down shift at all, the shift lever comes loose and just hangs. What I did to fix this, is loosen the hex-nut and bolt that go through the shift lever, and remove the shift lever itself. What is probably happening is oil is seeping in between the shift lever openining and the primary. Clean the openinig on the shift lever, and the spool it attaches to. If the hex-bolt is in poor condition, pick up a new one, or if it's in alright condition (not stripped) clean it. Simply set the shift lever where you want it, and retighten the hex-bolt. Tighten it a fair bit, using a lever to get extra leverage on it. Buells are notorious for leaking oil, so start with that. Worked for me...
no
The year, make and model info would help.
The year, make and model vehicle would help otherwise, the lever should stay where ever you shift it to.
The year, make and model vehicle would help but in some vehicles the shift cable runs under the drivers side carpet and gets damaged from constant moisture resulting in a sticky, binding shift lever.
Sounds to me like the neutral safety switch may be the culptrip. Not exactly sure where it is. Is this a floor shift or column shift? Will the engine try to start? in other words, does the starter engage? If not, then I would suspect the neutral safety switch. If the starter engages, but the engine won't start, then probably another issue.
bad cable
You typically can't bypass the starter - that is, after all, what actually turns the engine over to start the vehicle. If you have a manual shift vehicle, it is possible to roll start the vehicle. The key needs to be in the on position. You would roll the vehicle while it's in neutral, jump in, and shift it into gear.
Check the stop lights - shift interlock is usually the same circuit - check fuse Move the ignition switch to 1st position (unlock) with engine off - then shift to neutral to start vehicle and then you will be able to shift to "D or R"
on the 1987 model which I believe is the same operation, you would push the button next to the parking brake lever on the left lever down when lever is fully released. then while squeezing the lever, shift 1 position down from nuetral.
A lot of vehicles require that the brake pedal be pressed. Another one if shift lever is on column is that you have to pull up on lever; if on the floor should be a push button or a pull lever or just the requirement to press on brake pedal. Otherwise a problem with the linkage.
try a little wd 40