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How do you test the ignition coil on your 1994 Geo Metro?


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2005-09-09 15:21:08
2005-09-09 15:21:08

Disconnect the distributor cap end of the coil wire and attach to an ignition tester. Attach the ignition tester to a good ground, away from any fuel lines. A good spark tester can be made from an old spark plug gapped to 0.200". Crank the engine and observe the tester for spark. If a crisp blue spark is noticed, the ignition coil is working properly. If a pale yellow spark, or no spark, is noticed, the coil is more than likely bad.


Related Questions

A 1995 Geo Metro ignition coil is tested by measuring the resistance across the coil. If it exceeds the manufacturer's recommendation, it must be replaced.

You can test the ignition coil on a car by using a multimeter. A bad ignition coil can be the cause of a car not starting.

1999 Alero how do i test ignition coil pack

You cannot test it with a diagram. You will need a multimeter to test the coil. Click the link.

test ignition coil,ignition module,pick-up coil,electronic spark control,and knock sensor

You test an ignition coil by checking the resistance with an ohm meter. The resistance values should be something like, Primary winding .3 to 1 ohms, Secondary winding 8,000 to 11,500 ohms.

Hope This Help.TESTING Ignition Coil TestThe ignition coil must be diagnosed separately from the rest of the ignition system.Primary resistance is measured between the two primary (low voltage) coil terminals, with the coil connector disconnected and the ignition switch off. Primary resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms.On Dura Spark ignitions, the secondary resistance is measured between the BATT and high voltage (secondary) terminals of the ignition coil with the ignition OFF , and the wiring from the coil disconnected. Secondary resistance must be 8,000-11,500 ohms.If resistance tests are okay, but the coil is still suspected, test the coil on a coil tester by following the test equipment manufacturer's instructions for a standard coil. If the reading differs from the original test, check for a defective wiring harness.Ignition Coil Primary Circuit SwitchingInsert a small straight pin in the wire which runs from the coil negative (-) terminal to the TFI module, about 1 in. (25mm) from the module.WARNINGThe pin must not touch ground!Connect a 12 VDC test lamp between the straight pin and an engine ground.Crank the engine, noting the operation of the test lamp. If the test lamp flashes, proceed to the next test. If the test lamp lights but does not flash, proceed to the Wiring Harness test. If the test lamp does not light at all, proceed to the Primary Circuit Continuity test.Ignition Coil ResistanceRefer to the General Testing for an explanation of the resistance tests. Replace the ignition coil if the resistance is out of the specification range.Ignition Coil Secondary VoltageDisconnect the secondary (high voltage) coil wire from the distributor cap and install a spark tester between the coil wire and ground.Crank the engine. A good, strong spark should be noted at the spark tester. If spark is noted, but the engine will not start, check the spark plugs, spark plug wiring, and fuel system. If there is no spark at the tester: Check the ignition coil secondary wire resistance; it should be no more than 5,000 ohms per foot. Inspect the ignition coil for damage and/or carbon tracking. With the distributor cap removed, verify that the distributor shaft turns with the engine; if it does not, repair the engine as required. If the fault was not found proceed to the Ignition Coil Primary Voltage test.Ignition Coil Primary VoltageAttach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the distributor base.Turn the ignition switch ON and connect the positive voltmeter lead to the negative (-) ignition coil terminal. Note the voltage reading and turn the ignition OFF . If the voltmeter reading is less than 90 percent of the available battery voltage, inspect the wiring between the ignition module and the negative (-) coil terminal, then proceed to the Ignition Coil Supply Voltage test.Ignition Coil Supply VoltageAttach the negative lead of a voltmeter to the distributor base.Turn the ignition switch ON and connect the positive voltmeter lead to the positive (+) ignition coil terminal. Note the voltage reading then turn the ignition OFF . If the voltage reading is at least 90 percent of the battery voltage, yet the engine will still not run; first, check the ignition coil connector and terminals for corrosion, dirt, and/or damage; second, replace the ignition switch if the connectors and terminal are okay.Connect any remaining wiring.REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Carbureted EnginesDisconnect the battery ground.Disconnect the two small and one large wires from the coil.Disconnect the condenser connector from the coil, if equipped.Unbolt and remove the coil.Installation is the reverse of removal.Fuel Injected EnginesSee Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4Fig. Fig. 1: Disengage the high tension wire by pulling on the connector boot-fuel injected enginesFig. Fig. 2: Separate the wiring harness connection at the coilFig. Fig. 3: Unscrew the coil from its bracket mountFig. Fig. 4: Remove the coil from the enginePulling on the connector boot, disconnect the high tension lead at the coil.Disconnect the wiring at the ignition coil.Remove the ignition coil-to-bracket attaching screws, then remove the coil.To install:Install the coil, tightening the screws to 25-35 inch lbs. (2.8-4.0 Nm).Connect the ignition coil wiring harness and the high tension lead.

let the engine running, lift off the ignition coil one by one after opening the screw...a tick sounds will be heard ... no tick sound and gasoline leak on the plug thread means the ignition coil is busted.

If you are not getting spark to any of the plugs could be coil rotor and/or cap HEI ignition?

Try the ignition control module. Had the same problem with mine $36 part fixed it. The ignition control module is in the distributor and so is the pickup coil, but the ignition coil is by the battery. There is a spark test that can be done. If it was already done and couldn't see a spark, then it could be the ignition coil it self , the ignition wire, or any possible electrical connections.

Many autopart stores have a machine to test it. The machines use a universal adapter to hook into the ignition control module. The ignition control module is in the distributor. If you mean the part that contains the ignition coil, when mine went bad I probed it with an ohmeter and then asked the parts store if I could test the resistances in a new coil before I bought it. Since the resistances of certain terminals weren't even close, I knew I had a bad coil.

If you have an Ohm meter you will want to measure the resistance (ohms) of the Primary and Secondary sides of the coil pack and compare your readings to the Specifications for the vehicle.

There is no ignition module in a '84 laser. They have a coil and distributor unless it has been modified. If you don't get a spark across the points in the distributor when you try to start the engine you probably need a new coil.

you need a new distributor That can be one cause for this, could also be bad ignition coil, coil wire, or even spark plug wires. Test for spark at the coil, then coil wire, then the plug wire.

Remove it and test it. A good service manual for your car should tell you what to look for. If you don't have an ohm meter to test it, remove the coil and take it to a reputable auto parts retailer in your area.

first check your spark plug then test your ignition coil if these are good then it is probably the cdi but there is no way to test a cdi box.

If there is no spark either the coil or ignition module has probably failed. These components are part of the distributor assembly and are not sold separately.

hey are located inside the distributor and function as the trigger for the ignition system to produce spark. The pickup coil monitors the rotation

test for power before the coil, if you have power change the coil, if not trace the wires back and check for broken parts or bad connections.

check your distributor ignition module and go test it...

First, see if the each coil is getting the required voltage from the ignition switch (probably 12V). If they are, you can check the resistance of the coil with a simple volt meter. Should read minimal resistance. If the meter reads OL then the coil windings are open (defective/bad).

Even though you replaced the coil, it may be bad. You should test that first. If the coil is okay, it could be that the ignition wires need to be replaced.

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