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How to push in the piston even if the bleeder is open it still wont go back in?

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2010-10-21 00:39:50
2010-10-21 00:39:50

open the bleeder valve

I'm assuming your talking about a disk brake, you need to use a C clamp and the old brake pads to force the piston back into the caliper. If it had a X in the head of the piston you need to get the tool to turn it back in. If all that doesn't work, the caliper is frozen and it needs to be replaced

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Answerin order to depress caliper you have to turn the top of the piston clockwise while adding pressure with clamp.AnswerThis could be caused by the piston having worn a groove into the cylinder wall of - it's catching up on the edge. In that case, best to replace the caliper, or at the very least have yours rebuilt.NOTE: when compressing pistons back, be sure there is enough room in the brake fluid container for the extra fluid that going to be pushed back into it. You may need to take some out to avoid a nasty over-flow(!)

You can get a caliper piston compressor tool at most autoparts supply stores. Some even loan them for free if you buy your parts from them. Another option I've used is a thin piece of plywood [to protect the face of the piston] combined with a "C" clamp to press the piston back into the caliper. Usually, once the piston is fully returned into the caliper, the clamp and plywood can be removed without the piston moving back out. If it does, then recompress it, and just slightly "crack" open the bleeder screw [only momentarily to relieve the hydraulic pressure]. Then the piston should remain fully inside the caliper after the clamping pressure is removed. Good luck.

As long as the hydraulics are not opened, you do not have to bleed the system. When changing the brake pads, you can compress the caliper pistons back into the calipers without opening the hydraulic portion of the system. However, you may want to crack open the bleeder screw on the caliper to make it easier to collapse the piston, but even in that case, the system should not require bleeding.

You need a special tool to compress the piston back into the caliper. IF you have this simply unbolt the caliper, slide it off the brake disc, the pads slide out and the replacements slide in the same as the old ones came out, they'll only go in one way. However in order to refit you need the tool to compress the piston back into its start position. The piston 'screws' back into the caliper under pressure, the tool is essentially a threaded bar with a peg on end that locates in the groove/holes in the piston and a T on the other which goes against the caliper, you then wind the bar round and the pressure and screwing action winds the piston back in. The N/S piston has a reverse thread so needs to be wound the opposite way. With all the bits ready to go it can be done in an hour even without having done it before.

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If the parking brake is connected to these calipers they thread in clockwise special tool is available (not expensive) at Sears or auto parts If parking brake is not connected to these a "C" clamp should work to retract piston release the bleeder screw then either push them in or use a c-clamp to push them back in... this will waist a significant amount of brake fluid so make sure you have some handy I generally use a "C" clamp, but you can use whatever you have that will put pressure on the calipers to retract. The calipers move slowly and more pressure won't speed the process by much. If the calipers are moving, just keep even pressure on them.

Well it kind of depends on what the piston looks like. Does it have two holes on the head of the piston? If so, you will either need the special tool to compress it or you can try to use a set of needle nose pliers to push and turn it at the same time. If it doesn't have the two holes then all you should have to do is take the old brake pad and put on the piston (shim side to piston) get a C clamp and compress it (the brake pad will help protect the piston as well as help to provide even pressure across the piston as you compress). It may take some pressure but eventually you should see it start to compress. I have done several brake jobs myself and this way works the best. Hope this helps and goodluck. note* - I have read that when compressing the piston you should have the bleeder screw open to allow some of the fluid to escape as you compress the piston. Also you could have the brake fluid reservoir cover open to allow for the fluid to escape that way. I have done both and they have worked fine for me.

Isolate the combustion chamber above the piston from the crankcase below the piston, so that the pressure does not blow-by the piston into the crankcase. Also they ensure an even spreading of crankcase oil along the walls of the cylinder to prevent wear. They also provide improved thermal contact from the piston to the cylinder walls, which are cooled by the cooling system.

No. How could there be? The "stroke" of an engine is the piston going up or down. If the spark plug fires and piston goes down, then up,and then fires again, then it's a two-stroke engine. IN a 4-stroke engine, the spark plug fires, piston does down, then up to exhaust the cylinder, then down to suck in fresh air and cool the cylinder, and up again to compress, and the spark plug fires every other "up". How could you have a "three-stroke" engine? The spark plug fires and the explosion pushes the piston down, and the crankshaft pushes it back up. Then back down. If the spark plug fires while the piston is DOWN, the engine will seize up. Nope. In a piston engine, the number of "strokes" is always an even number. For radial or Wankel engines, things are different - but in those there is no piston, and no "stroke".

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