you need manifold vacuum. Either on one of the intake runners or at the base of the carb.
If you're talking about the vacuum advance for the 216/235 distributor, then yes it has the vacuum advance, which runs off a carburetor connection close to the idle adjustment screw.
Those are thermoswitches. They open and close vacuum supply to the egr valve and the distributor advance.
Could be vacuum module in distributor or other vacuum
Remove the distributor cap. Remove the hose to the vacuum advance. Remove the two screws holding the vacuum advance on. Install in reverse order.
pull the hose off the vacuum advance and some of them have a set screw inside the hole.
It won't. That vacuum line tells the distributor When to advance the timing. There isn't enough vacuum loss to stall an engine.
at the distributor. mechanical type
Detach the vacuum hose from the vacuum advance unit. Remove the distributor cap and unscrew the two mounting screws. Pull the rotor off the shaft and remove those two mounting screws as well. Unscrew the two advance unit mounting screws and remove the unit from the distributor.
If you have a manual transmission and a centrifugal advance distributor, you don't have any. If you have vacuum advance on your distributor, there's one vacuum hose running from the side of the carb to the distributor. If you have an automatic transmission, you've got a hose from the intake manifold to the control valve.
I really depends on what distributor you have on the engine. It could be a mechanical advance distributor or a vacuum advance distributor (stock). Google "the Somba" Volkswagen forum and all will be explained.
Manifold vacuum usually. There may be some instances where someone reworked a distributor to arrive at a specific timing curve under load using ported vacuum with the vacuum advance, but this would be rare as most people would re-curve their distributor by changing advance weights and springs and would limit the advance built into a distributor so they could use more initial timing without having the total timing go over 36-40 degrees when the engine is revved up and all advance is in.
You are asking two separate questions. The transmission has a cable,mechanical, kickdown. The distributor does not have a vacuum advance.
Rotate engine to TDC Intake Stroke Remove Distributor cap Remove vacuum line to vacuum advance if equipped Remove horsehoe type clamp on side of distributor Lift out distributor
"VAcuum advance". Step on it, vacuum goes down and it advances timing for more performance/power. Idle of letting off, advance goes back to setting for economy.
>you don't adjust the vaccuum advance. you adjust the distributor. then when engine is running the vaccuum advance will work automatically to the needs of the engine< As a matter of fact, the Ford vacuum advance is easily adjustable. Put a 1/8" Allen wrench through the open of the vacuum advance canister where the vacuum hose goes. Screw it in to slow the rate of advance and screw it out to speed it up. I think it works on a spring preload system.
According to the repair manual that I am reading, you do not have a distributor, you have coil packs (3). There is not a vacuum advance persay. The spark advance is caused by the vehicle computer.
vacuum advance can connect anywhere there is vacuum present,carbuerator base is a good spot
If it is a point type distributor you will want to hook it to constant vacuum...somewhere on a port in the base plate. If it's HEI you'll want to hook it to one in the carb body. Something that has no vacuum at idle but pulls vacuum as you give it throttle.
The point gap for a 65 mustang that had a 260/289 V8 with a single point, vacuum advance distributor was .014-.016. A car with a 170/200 6cyl motor with the single point vacuum advance distributor was .024-.026, and for a car that had the high performance 289 with the dual point, centrifugal advance distributor it was .019-.021
This must be a vacuum hose, with a connection to the intake manifold, at rear of carb. This must be an after-market distributor because the original "Lean Burn" computer did not have a vacuum advance distrib. The vacuum was connected to the computer that controlled the distrib. advance. these setups, one made by Mopar, kit #P3690426, by passed the computer and is vacuum operated.
84 has a vacuum advance 89 has an electronic advance Thats the only diff.
-Disconnect vacuum hose at old vacuum advance "can".-Remove distributor cap - wires can usually be left attached to cap, but red wire to cap may have to be disconnected to manipulate cap away from disty.-Remove ignition rotor.-Remove two ( usually ) screws attaching Vac. Advance can to distributor.-Carefully disengage vac. advance can lever from advance mechanism on disty.-Remove can.-Install new can;manipulate advance can lever ( rod ) into nub on advance ring before tightening screws holding down advance can onto distributor.-Install rotor.-Reinstall disty. cap - making sure 4 hold-down screws are seated securely.-Re-connect any wires disconnected from cap.-Re-connect vacuum line to advance can.Drive happily, with more power on hills.-J.Snick -- Question Authority --
you will need to replace the intake with an intake for a carburetor,install carburetor and replace the distributor with one which has a vacuum advance(a late 70's 305 or 350 will work well). you will also have to install an electric fuel pump for a carburetor (lower pressure than the fuel injecton). remove the relay powering the pump in the tank if the whole wiring harness is not removed.
I have one but cap and vaccuum advance are missing.