1995-2005 Chevy Cavaliers

$1200 to $1400 depending on where you go. Obviously the dealer will be a little higher. Mostly labour cost as the parts are usually under $300.

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As stated on this question for someone else: "There are a lot of factors to take into consideration. First, are you talking about an "as-is" Cavalier or a modified version? If you are talking about a Factory equipment Cavalier, don't try to tow anything heavier than 500 lbs, and then that is even taking a chance. These cars are NOT made for towing! Have a Certified mechanic/technician add a trans-cooler, have all of the fuilds replaced with upgraded ones, and have the back-end reinforced, you "might" (and I say might lightly) be able to tow 1,000 lbs. for about 5 miles or so at a time. Again, this car IS NOT built for towing, and the cost to modify it would be more than it would cost to upgrade to a small GMC Sierra or another type of pick-up... You might even make out better renting a U-Haul, if the towing you need to do is short term. I've seen some people tow a motorcycle with Cavalier-style cars, BUT again, this is NOT advised!"

its either the water pump or thermostat take it to a shop if you can that pump is a nightmare to change

I would say a whole day, considering you have to drop the fuel tank, find enough space to drop the tank, and then get it back up there. Not a fun job to do.

Remove bolt from coolant bottle and set to side to have room to work. bungee cord belt from alternator to ac line, so belt doesn't come off other pulleys. put 3/8 inch ratchet or breaker bar on tensioner & release tension while you slip belt off. Take tire off passenger front side. Remove splash sheld. you will see tensioner. remove it with a 15mm wrench (ratchet 7 socket won't fit, limited clearance. reverse everything to put back together.

Caution:On models with a Delco Loc 2 or Theftlock audio system be sure the lockout feature is turned off before proceeding * Disconnect the negative battery cable * Drain the cooling system * Remove the cooling fan then remove the serpentine drivebelt 2.2L OHV Engine * Remove the water pump pulley from the front of the water pump * Remove the coolant reservoir hoses * Detach the water pump retaining bolts and remove the pump from the vehicle 2.3L And 2.4L OHC Engines * Disconnect the oxygen sensor harness connector * Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands * Remove the exhaust manifold brace and loosen the exhaust manifold bolts * Remove the radiator outlet pipe assembly to the water pump housing bolts and separate the assembly from the engine * Remove the exhaust manifold pipe from the exhaust manifold * Remove the radiator outlet pipe from the oil pan.On manual transaxles cars remove the exhaust manifold brace and keep the radiator inlet hose attached to the assembly.Pull down on the radiator outlet pipe in order to disengage the pipe from the water pump while leaving the radiator outlet pipe hanging * Lower the car remove the brake booster vacuum hose from the camshaft housing also remove the exhaust manifold from the cylinder head * Remove the timing chain cover from the engine * Remove the timing chain tensioner * Remove the water pump cover bolts from the engine block and the timing chain housing * Remove the water pump bolts and separate the assembly from the housing

Worn brake pads? Bad CV joint? Bad strut mount bearing? Worn tie rod end? Bad ball joint?

In average circulated condition, all Walking Liberty halves from 1940 to 1947 are very common with values of $14.00-$15.00.

Passenger side floorboard,underneath/behind the glovebox.3 bolts have it mounted.

Try this...

You will need a 3/8 belt tensioner tool or a two foot piece of wood.

a 15mm open/box end wrench, stubby preferred.

a 15mm socket and ratchet

a small socket set

a jack, floor or stock

a lug wrench

a jack stand

a friend (for 5 minutes)

If you have the cash, this is a good time to replace the belt.

Open hood, apply emergency brake

If the belt isn't already off, push down on the tensioner with the stick or tensioner tool and slip the belt off of either the tensioner or the dummy wheel in the center of the engine

Raise vehicle from the front of the passenger door's jack slot until RF tire is almost off ground

Loosen lug nuts slightly raise tire off ground

Support frame up front with jack stand, do not block engine pully access

Remove tire and center access panel in wheel well (three small screws on the right and some larger ones supporting the brake line cable)

Wiggle the panel out of of the brake line and it should drop out only supported by the front valence fastener.

Lower your jack or use a 2nd one and jack up to the engine support bar running just in front of the flywheel pully on the front of the engine.

Up under the hood, remove the two motor mount bolts on the top front of the engine with a 15mm socket going back and forth alternately between the two (yes, the obvious easy to get to bolts).

Start lowering the engine with the jack until it bottoms out (note: make sure the alternator or anything else doesn't get hung up on the way down).

Now look in the wheel well and there is the tensioner. Unfortunately the bolt is still slightly obscured so use a 15mm box end to break it loose and the open end to remove it the rest of the way. Lots of threads so keep going.

Tensioner falls off.

Put bolt in new tensioner and install getting the guide pin lined up.

Raise the engine back up to within 1/2 inch of the mount plate taking care not to get hung up on the way up. (the engine is flopping loose and easily manipulated).

Line up the motor mount bolts and hand start them and tighten them up alternately.

Have a friend hold the tensioner down with a stick or tensioner tool while you reinstall the belt (route it and install it on the dummy wheel last). There is a diagram on the top front of the hood, I recommend drawing it on paper so it can be oriented during installation.

Install wheel well access panel and tire, lower car and tighten lug nuts.

If the car was overheated because the belt came loose during tensioner failure, replace lost coolant and change the oil (heat breakdown).

Easiest way is to go to a Chev dealer parts department - they have the entire line of Chev vehicles reduced to blow-up schematics and can give you the part number of ANY vehicle Chev makes. Even if you don't order the part thru them they will probably do you a favor for "customer satisfaction."

Go to autozone.com.....click "Repair Info"

It's usually caused by a leak in your wheel cylinder. The part itself is around $10.00, but be careful when you remove the brake line, it is very easy to break.

It could also be:

the rear brakes were wrongly made by the manufacture and so were the specs dispersed to all other companies to it warps horribly

the wheel cylinder

master cylinder.

it depends on your engine the pumps them selfs are about $40-$60 but if you have a z24 or other where the pump is run off the timing chain it could be anywhere from $650- $750

you most likely need an alignment or your tires just need to be balanced

in the fuse panel located in the drivers doorjam on the left end of the dash

One of 3 problems: wheel sensor is bad, abs cables, or hubs.

how do you replace thermostat for 2004 cavalier

could be the fuse

60000 = EA60

a z-donk is a zebra & donkey breed animal

Remove the wheel,remove the brake caliper, it may have a clip on the lug nut stud, just grab it with needle nose plires and twist it till it breaks off and then the rotor should just fall off.

Take it to a repair shop.