Chevrolet

The valves are quite a bit bigger on the 193's. Not sure if the chambers are bigger also. Switching from 601's might lower the compression ratio.

I assume you are talking about the oiling system. They make a tool for such an operation. It is a long shaft, that looks like a standard screwdriver on one end, and goes into a 1/2 drill, on the other. This shaft goes down the motor where the distributor would go, and matches up to the oil pump drive. Pump the oil up until you have oil comming out of the pushrods, and the rocker arms. Your oil pressure gauge in the car will also be an indicator.

.016 - .021 point gap. .033-.038 spark plug gap. Click the link for all the info you will ever need on the 1957 Chevy.

1974 c65 chev. w/ 366 , need spark plugs

20,760 two door station wagons were made by Chevy in 1959

Set the timing at 6 degrees BTDC (Before Top Dead Center). Make sure you pull the vacuum line off the distributor and plug the line with a golf tee or something before setting the timing, it will make a difference and it's the recommended procedure. Be sure to reconnect the vacuum line after you time it . Just fyi check the timing again to see how much the vacuum advance changes the timing, but trust the way you set it with the line plugged, the specs call for the line to be plugged. While you are at it , rev the engine and watch to see if the timing is advancing properly. You can get a timing tape to put on the vibration dampener. You should get well over 30 degrees total advance depending on how much is built into that particular dist . A good speed shop can curve the dist to optimize your application. It's one of the cheapest most effective and most overlooked performance mods you can make. Don't see the timing advance then that is your problem. If you still have the hard starting, stalling, and idle problem, then it is not cause by timing. Check all vacuum hoses and replace any that are cracked or leaking. In fact I would just replace them all to make sure.

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I have a 1991 Chevy 30 foot motorhome chassis p-30 with a 454 engine tbi. Going up an extended grade, engine loses power, service engine lite comes on and stumbles and surges. Changed fuel filters twice, and problem seem to stop, but only to come back after approx 250 miles. Seems to happen only on a long up grade. On crest of hill and downhill, as load is decreased, lite goes off and truck seems to run more towards normal as time goes on.

6 Vin numbers

Wrong PSI radiator cap or defective radiator cap installed.

NEW ANSWER: The above answer is true ( COULD BE ) But I would bet you have a BLOWN / LEAKING head gasket that is building pressure in the water / cooling system.

if it is original the upper ball joint is riveted in, it will need to be chisel out,there are four rivets and then the nut that holds it to the control arm.new ball joint will come with bolts and nuts

The timing chain has no regularly scheduled time or mileage for replacement. It will normally last the life of the engine. They are routinely replaced when a complete overhaul is done. You will know if it needs service. It will become noisy, and your engine may not run correctly if it jumps a tooth.

Your best bet is to visit a good auto shop (seller of antifreeze), and say "I want to buy enough antifreeze for a 1990 Chevy 5.7 truck".

Around $18,000-$25,000 depending on its condition

From one of the founders of the company Louis Chevrolet in 1911.

take off the tire and just pull the rotor off it might take so pounding but it will just slide off

It stands for (Heritage High Roof) HHR.

Chevrolet builds some of their vehicles in the U.S. and some in Canada & Mexico. Some parts for American built Chevys come from foreign companies. No car contains 100% American parts. All Honda's sold in the U.S. are built in the U.S. But Honda is owned by a Japanese company and Chevrolet is owned by an American company. Look at the sticker on the window of any new car and it will tell you where the car is built and what percentage of the parts are foreign.

No, a clogged heater core will not make it overheat. A leaking heater core will.

Yes, however you will need to use a 427 crankshaft, rods, and pistons.

It is located In the heater box, dead center behind the dashboard. Note there are 3 doors in the box. The center one is the temperature blend door. Or as Gm would like to call it, The Temperature control valve. GM Part number 22664704 or AC delco number 15-50577 Ask me why they refer to it as a valve who knows? "It only controls the movement of air, not water" Dummy, The plastic drive end snaps off just at the end of the flapper shaft. The part that meets the actuator motor."A VERY COMMON FAILURE IN THE EQUINOX AND PONTIAC TORRENT" Please note and a word of caution this is not a job for a novice. It requires that the whole dash needs to be removed. including the passenger side air bag assembly. The air conditioner needs to be discharged along with the cooling system drained. And I almost forgot the heater box It self needs to be totally dissembled. It's kinda like a Swiss watch. HaHa.The book gives 10 hours labor time for a professional mechanic. Not to blow my own horn but after doing about 30 vehicles in the past 6 months. I got the time down to about 7 hours. Not a fun job but it's clean and pays well. thank you GM. AND THE BEST THING IS THEY NEVER REDESIGNED THE DEFECTIVE PART. SO IN A COUPLE OF YEARS I CAN DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN . The Dealer charges any wear between 900 to 1500 dollars

No, it is mounted on the engine block.

Before you take the Chevy in for a diagnostic test, you can look at the fuse box and see if the fuse is burnt for the brake lights. If so, go to some place like AutoZone or O'Reilly's and sometimes someone there will even help you find and replace a fuse. Also, it would be odd if both brake light bulbs burned out at the same time, but not impossible.

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What is the firinf order for an 83 citation

No matter what kind of engine you have all transmission can differ in size shape and many other factors