Batteries

Old laptop batteries have the shortest lives.

Check and see how many Ah (Amper hours) your battery is. If it is for a gas/gasoline car, then it is probably around 42 Ah; batteries for diesel are usually around 72 Ah. Check the power of your battery charger. It should be something between 4-6 A. You must divide the battery capacity by the charger strength to get the time necessary. For example: your battery is 42 Ah and your charger is 6 A. Then the time needed will be 42 Ah / 6 A = 7 h. Charge your battery no longer than 7 h. Please note that overcharging the battery permanently damages it.

I had this problem with an HP laptop.....here are some ideas:

1. Try a different AC adapter - it may be the one you're using
2. You will have to replace the DC section of the adapter through the motherboard, which is extremely risky. There are some on eBay if you want to do it yourself, otherwise you're paying $500+ for a new motherboard.

The cover on the rear OF ROUND FOSSIL WATCHES is usually threaded. Threaded covers have a series of square notches cut into the outside perimeter of the round back case. Use some tool (small needle nose?, I used a set of measuring calipers) to insert in two of the opposite notches on the cover. Spin it off counter clockwise VERY FIRMLY. Then carefully pull up the plastic retainer. Push the metal tab (over the one side of the battery) off of the battery and the battery will pop up. Reverse to reinstall. (Some batteries are not held down my a movable tab, but a tab that cannot be moved. At some top part of the battery along the outer perimeter will be a very small metal tab of part the watch over top of the battery. Do NOT pry the battery up there or you will bend the tab. Pry the battery up from the opposite end using a small screwdriver, and insert the new battery by sliding one side under this tab and pushing the battery down into place.)

For SQUARE or other unusual back covers, they can be pried off. Look carefully at the outside edges of the back cover for a place they put to insert a flat jeweler's screwdriver and pry up firmly.

Wear safety glasses and gloves to protect your hands. Pliers and screwdrivers can easily slip off and into your hand or eye.

All I know is that you have to have a special tool, as the fossil watches are pressure sealed to keep out particles and moisture. That's why it costs so much in the stores to get a simple battery replaced.

To remove the back cover I put a long nose plier across an opposite pair of notches on the back cover and unscrewed it gently without letting the plier pop out of the grooves. Looking at the exposed watch, there is a nylon like cover that partly covers the battery. There are open slots on the sides of this cover and it can be removed easily with a very small screwdriver by putting it in a slot and prying it out. Now, looking at the battery, (Different Fossil watches take different sized batteries. Remove your battery before buying a new one, or get the model number of the watch off the back and contact Fossil. Also, since you need to buy a battery anyway, Wal Mart or other jewelers can replace the battery for you since you're already there. It is held in place by a short partial ring on one side and by a long flat spring like device on the other side. The spring is pushed into a pin which keeps it from moving away from the battery. To release the spring, put the screwdriver in the center of the spring, about half way to the battery and lift up. The spring will come out of the locking pin and the battery will be free to remove. After replacing the battery, hold the center of the spring up in the center and push the far end down under the locking pin, and then release the center. (Note, most Fossil watches have battery holders where you simply pry the battery up without any pins or springs. At some top part of the battery along the outer perimeter will be a very small metal tab of the watch over top of the battery. Do NOT pry the battery up there or you will bend the tab. Pry the battery up from the opposite end using a small screwdriver.)

Another suggestion:

I tried the needle nose pliers method w/ no success. (Some needle nosed pliers are too fat at the tip, and require grinding down. Or, buy or use a tool from Wal Mart as you need to buy a new battery anyway!) I ended up scratching the plate a little bit. Then i took a flat head screwdriver and pushed on one of the notches to make it turn counterclockwise. This had a much better grip. Don't try the little watch/jeweler screw driver, they are too small to hold on well. Inside is a battery (SR927W). (Different Fossil watches take different sized batteries.)

D.N.L.

I just used regular 'walmart' pliers to open my broken (glass broke somehow...) watch to end my burning curiosity. need to grip it in a vice grip but i used leverage by wedging it in the back end of a hammer i found lying around instead. just needed to push down hard to increase friction (and therefore grip strength) and everything worked fine until it slipped and scratches the bajesus out of it. good thing i didn't care anyhow...

The best choice for removing a threaded case back is to use a "case back removal tool", which consists of two or three adjustable "pins" attached to a handle (most WalMarts sell a two-pin tool in their jewelry department, and you can purchase a better three-pin tool from several vendors on eBay). To use it, start by placing the watch face-down on a padded surface (to avoid scratching the crystal). Adjust the pins so that they very snugly fit into the notches cut into the case back; if you don't, the pins can jump out when you try to use it and scratch the watch. Place the tool over the case back and engage the pins into the slots; then, holding the watch steady with one hand and the tool in the other, give the tool a counterclockwise turn to loosen the back (it may take a lot of force to do this, especially if this is the first time the battery is being replaced). Once the case back is loosened (usually about 1/4 to 1/2 turn), remove the tool and finish unscrewing the back by hand to avoid scratching the watch. Be careful as you remove it as some watches use a very thin O-ring on the back to make a watertight seal.

After replacing the battery and ensuring the watch is running properly again, carefully inspect the surface of the case and the threading on the case back and remove any dust or grimy deposits with a soft cloth. Then, place the case back onto the case, being careful to align the O-ring or other seals, as well as the case back threads (tip: to ensure the threads are lined up, place the back on the watch and turn it counterclockwise about 1/2 turn or until you feel the ends of the threads "fall" into place). Screw the case back down as far as possible by hand, then use the removal tool to tighten it the rest of the way.

I have a fossil watch with a square back and I just changed the battery. I recently purchased a battery changing kit from eBay for about $15 bucks and it paid for itself the same day. My watch back is not threaded, but it is snapped in place. It has four notches protruding from the case that you have to pry off that stick into the case of the watch. The tool kit I purchased comes with a tool that has a rounded knife end with a thick body to grip. I placed this tool into the top of the watch back, right beneath the bands, ensuring that I was in the groove. I tried my best to pry it off but I couldn't. So I placed the tool in that spot, and hammered it, and the back came off. I was able to change the battery and snap the back into place. I'm now wearing that watch as I type.

You should send your rechargeable batteries, as any other batteries, to your local recycling site, probably run by your local council.

How long does it take for the computer to reset on VW jetta after service of engine light problem. Won't pass smog drove 130 miles has not reset?

no stupid

There's no set value, it depends entirely on the battery and the charger. Can be anything from minutes to the better part of a day.
The time to recharge batteries depends a) on what device you are referring to - laptop/ mobile phone/ MP3 player/ electric car... and b) most importantly, how low the battery already is. Generally speaking, a few hours should suffice for the majority of batteries. Leaving them to charge overnight though may be a wise choice, to be safe.

The main reason one battery will last longer than another is simply a matter of materials used in the construction, and the chemicals used in the electrolyte. For instance, you have carbon batteries, lithium batteries, metal hydride, mercury, lead-acid and who knows what else out there on the market, and some will lend themselves better to one application over another. Also it has a carbonhydrate that makes it last longer.

At the same time, I wouldn't believe everything you see and hear in the TV commercials, either. The application for which the battery is being used also plays an important factor, as well as the manufacturing processes. It's been my experience that sometimes, the lesser expensive battery will provide the best performance in the long run. The only thing you can do is experiment a bit to see which is best for your particular application.

I've got two NP-FG1 Sony batteries, InfoLithium, G type. One came with the Sony camera, and I purchased an extra battery (same), at the same time. The purchase was made in 2008. This being November 2012, both batteries are still very, very good. Sometimes I rarely use the camera, and wait for a total discharge to occur. I charge for the recommended time. More importantly, when one battery discharges, I place the second one in the camera. The second battery is always charged. Sometimes, a full charged battery, (NP-FG1) will last months just sitting out of the camera. The battery in the camera always discharges first. upon this aspect, it is unclear to me why the battery 'sitting' on the shelf will remain charged for months. The only reasonable explanation I can provide, is that the battery inserted in the camera uses a small amount of current for time, date, etc.

Just like other batteries, it depends on the usage. If you have everything set to max performance and are using wifi then the battery will run out a lot faster than if you conserve power. Expect to get 6 1/2 hours usage if you are using max settings and around 8 1/2- 9 if you conserve. The other thing to consider is the extra weight a battery of this size will add.

a windmill in the wind

a water wheel in a stream

solar cells in the sunshine

burn oil

burn natural gas

burn coal

burn wood

burn garbage

drill into the ground for steam

boil water with the heat from enriched uranium

It is the smallest size battery among other cylindrical battery having an ideal diameter of 10.5 mm and length of 44.5 mm.

Depends on the draw of whatever you've hooked it up to.

If the draw is 1 mA, then it'll last for 1650 hours.

If the draw is 10 mA, then it'll last for 165 hours.

If the draw is 100 mA, then it'll last for 16 hours 30 minutes.

Johnson Controls is the manufacture of Duralast batteries. This is the same company that makes batteries such as Sears Die-Hard, Honda, Ever Start, Energizer, Autocraft, Optima, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Alliance, and others.

It comes from the coal, oil, or natural gas that are burned, or the uranium that's

reacted, or the other batteries that are used, or the falling water that flows

through the hydroelectric generator, or the kinetic energy in the wind that turns

the windmill generator, or the solar radiation collected by the photovoltaic cells,

to generate the electric supply that's used to recharge them.

Have I forgotten any ?

Because mercury is widely beleived to be extremely poisonous and dangerous to the environment these days, and if batteries leaked, it would be too dangerous so governments have banned their use.

Dispose of them by returning them to the original dealer or ny taking them to a recycling center. To recycle, pack them seperately from other items. If you don't have a recycling center nearby, contact your country for local regulations for disposal.

There are 1,000,000 micro amps in one amp.

All you have to do is make sure the battery is correctly positioned inside the laptop, turn the laptop on and plug it in. Mine charges when it's turned off also, but not all laptops have this feature.

If your battery no longer charges or does not hold its charge, it might be worn out. Contact the manufacturer of your computer to buy a replacement.

DC (Direct Current) electricity is the only kind which can be stored. For this reason, it is what you get from all batteries. Flashlight batteries usually output that electricity at 1.5 volts when they are new.

The Ampere-Hour rating tells you how much energy can be extracted from a given battery. For our 30AH battery, you could draw 1A for 30 hours, 2A for 15 hours, 3A for 10 hours, 30A for 1 hour, or any combination where Amps X hours = 30, within reason. Are you talking about a battery supplying a load directly, like a 12V battery supplying a 240W, 12V heater? Or do you mean a battery running an inverter supplying a 120V, 240W load? For the direct load, first calculate Amps drawn by the load. Amps = Watts / Volts. Then divide the A/H rating of the battery by the load Amps. Example: * 240W, 12V heater * Amps = 240 / 12 = 20A * Time = 30AH / 20A = 1.5 hours (90 minutes) For a load run by invertor, you just divide the Watts needed by the efficiency of the invertor. The efficiency rating is almost always found on the nameplate or in the manual. Most modern invertors are in the range of 90% - 96%. Example: * Same as above, except load is 120V, 240W heater run through a 90% efficient invertor. * Watts drawn from battery = 240 / 0.9 = 267 W * Amps = 267 / 12 = 22.2A * Time = 30AH / 22.2A = 1.35 hours (81 minutes) One factor to consider: The Amp-Hour rating of a battery is only valid up to about 10% of capacity current draw. So, a 30AH battery is only 30AH for loads up to 3A. At very high loads, the available AH from a battery decreases. This derating varies with size and manufacturer, but don't count on getting every minute of operation from our example above, because our current draw is much higher than 3A. In this case we might only have 25AH or so to play with.

Alessandro Volta invented the first battery called a voltaic pile made of two dissimilar metal plates in a brine solution in 1800.
The first practical battery was developed using the Leyden jar. The Leyden jar was invented in 1745 by both Ewald Georg von Kleist and Pieter van Musschenbroek. The Leyden jar was a single cell electrical storage device. A battery requires 2 or more cells to be called a battery. In 1745, multiple Leyden jars were connected, thus creating the first battery.

Mains supply provides alternative current while battery provides direct current.