its a great invention because it can be used to get someone from one place to another fairly quickly while doing exercise. It also is a mode of transport which gives off no CO2 emissions.

Look up the manufacturer website and type in your Serial Number.

If the bike is complete right now, easiest thing is to read on the tire sidewalls. Somewhere there should be embossed the tire size. You can usually go a bit either wider or narrower on the same rims, but you can't change diameter.

If you find them, use the millimeter size. Inch sizes can sometimes be misleading, with several different sizes using the same numbers. There's about five different 26" for isntance which can't be mixed.

depends on the model and the condition that it's in. If you had a photo it'd be a lot easier to help.

Just to give you a rough estimate, if it's in fairly good shape it'd be worth between $75-$500 unless it's a really rare model.

900 dollars

All "true" BMX bikes are built for 20" wheels, which makes them very similar in size.

Yes. The first bicycle was introduced in 1817 by the German Baron Karl Von Drais and was called a 'Draisine' or a 'Draisienne'. It was a simple wooden construction with a wooden frame supported by two in-line wheels. The rider had to push the vehicle along withe the use of his/her feet while steering the front wheel.

In 1865, Frenchmen Pierre Michaux and Pierre Lallement added a mechanical crank drive with pedals on a large front wheel (the velocipede). This creation was made out of iron and wood which improved the reliability of the bicycle. The only way to increase the speed of the bicycle was to enlarge the front wheel which made it more difficult to steer and increased the probability of a crash.

In 1868, a Michaux bicycle was brought to Coventry, England by Rowley Turner, sales agent of the Coventry Sewing Machine Company. Later this company became the Coventry Machinist Company. The French model was used as a base for the Coventry Model.

The 1890's where the Golden Ages of the Bicycle, with many improvements that occurred in rapid succession. In 1888, Scotsman John Dunlop introduced the first practical pneumatic tire, which soon became the universal standard. Other improvements where the development of the rear freewheel which made coasting possible. In the 1890's this refinement led to the development of the coaster brakes, derailleur gears and cable-pull brakes.

These where the first models of the modern bicycle.

Depends a bit on which year you're talking about. Way back 10-spd used to mean two chainwheels at the front and 5 sprockets at the rear, making it a total of 10 speed. Today 10 speed usually means that you have 10 sprockets at the rear, and then 2 or 3 chainwheels at the front, making it a total of 20 or 30 gears. So if you have an old 10-spd(2x5) then the less old 21(3x7) will offer a greater number of different gear ratios. But if you're comparing a modern 10 speed(2-3x10)with a somewhat old 21 speed(3x7) then the 10 speed is likely to be a newer and better bike.

At that weight, you're beginning to push things a bit. Plenty of bikes will hold up for casual riding, but going over a curb too fast or things like that can certainly break things.

First off, I suggest you look for a rigid, steel frame mountainbike.

You might be tempted to go for a suspension bike, but the good stuff, like air/oil suspension won't be rated for your weight.

On top of that, rigids are cheaper anyhow.

Make sure the frame is big enough for you. Lighter people can run long stems and long exposed seat posts. For you, that's not ideal.

For comfort, fit the widest tires that frame/fork can take. Something like Schwalbe Big Apple comes to mind.

Next thing is wheels. Look for 36 spoke(or more), and wide, beefy rims. For casual riding, pretty much any 36H front wheel will do. Rears are trickier.

If you want external gears, see if your budget allows for a 40 or a 48 spoke tandem rear wheel. Or go for one with internal gears or a single speed. Wheels w/o external gears are inherently stronger, so a sensible choice if you want to stay within the easier available 36H.

And do try to shop from a reputable, local dealer. Dedicated riding at your weight will require better-than-average stuff, which takes some skill to source and put together.

plz waitng

depends on what rack you have.

I think all the XC90s came with the factory rack, but no crossbars.

There are 3 kinds of crossbars:

1. Thule standard crossbars (like LB50s) - these will take any thule load carriers (e.g. bike racks, ski racks, etc.

2. T-track crossbars - these will also take all thule load carriers but may require an additional adapter (Xadapt9 I think)

3. Wing profile bars - these will also take Thule load carriers, and I believe the track in them is like the T-track design. I ended up klugeing mine by modifying the hardware that came with the bike racks.

depends on what rack you have.

I think all the XC90s came with the factory rack, but no crossbars.

There are 3 kinds of crossbars:

1. Thule standard crossbars (like LB50s) - these will take any thule load carriers (e.g. bike racks, ski racks, etc.

2. T-track crossbars - these will also take all thule load carriers but may require an additional adapter (Xadapt9 I think)

3. Wing profile bars - these will also take Thule load carriers, and I believe the track in them is like the T-track design. I ended up klugeing mine by modifying the hardware that came with the bike racks.

70 kmpl in city

80 kmpl in highway

chain riding

Banana seat bikes often have very high bars called "monkey hanger bars".

One particular bike is the Schwinn Krate.

The platinum framed Murray is an urban legend. It was never made, accidentally or otherwise.

27.2 mm

depends on the age if its newish,ie not more than two years, about £400-