Bike Types

fuji serial number work like this the S means subcontractor/or a plant manufacture the L means the month starting January as A, feb as B and so on the 1 stands for the year of the bike 81 2 would be 82 and so on the rest of the numbers are production total for that month

so your bike date is December 1981 total production in December of 3,413 to be honest with you that's not alot at all i have about 60 fuji bikes but mine are 23,000 built in one month so yours its cool save it

From what I can tell, it is next to impossible to trace the age of most bikes with the serial number. However, many of the components will have date codes on them. You just have to know where to look and what to look for. At the time of production, both the component manufacturer and the bicycle manufacturer will have had a certain amount of inventory that might correspond to a few days up to six months or even a year if they are very sloppy. So I would figure about six months after the age of the component to guestimate the age of the bike. Also, keep in mind that the new year's models could be introduced prior to the end of the calendar year.

The web site below has very useful info on the location and meaning of component codes. Although it is a Trek site, it is equally useful for Fuji owners. I was able to use this info to identify my Fuji Allegro as a 1985 model. It had a date stamp of Dec 1984 on the inside of the brake extension lever. I had to unscrew a bolt and take it off to see the code.

http://www.vintage-trek.com/component_dates.htm

Well, 26" is tricky, 'cause there's a lot of different 26" rims - believe it or not. It's far safer to go by the ETRTO designation which gives bead seat diameter(=size) in millimeters instead.

If it's a fairly recent 26", then it's most likely to be ETRTO 559 mm, and any other 559 mm tire would at least be possible to mount.

1.75 vs 2.0 is the width, and shouldn't be a problem. Check link for recommendations.

You probably don't. Unless the model and manufacturer's name is painted or decalled on it, you will have a lot of trouble finding out this info for most mass-produced bikes. Even if you know the make and model, serial numbers are rarely decodable. Your best bet is to try to find your bike in an old catalog copied and posted on line. This is still difficult as so many mountain bikes have been produced by so many manufacturers and under many different names. Good luck.

Kinda-sorta.

The wheel size has to match the frame/fork size, and the frame size should match the body size and riding type of the rider.

Overall smaller wheels will be stronger and easier to bring up to speed than bigger wheels. But bigger wheels roll smoother and offer a higher available gearing - which rarely is important outside a race setting.

Well, 700C is a wheel size, also known as 622 mm or 28". But apart from that I can't figure out what the question is.

As long as there has been bikes, some people have been riding them off road. Mountainbiking started developing in the 1980s. Another off-road discipline, cyclocross, was established in the early 1900.

The Schwinn Mesa Google can find has a 65 mm travel fork. This, for real MTBs is short. Current standard is 80 mm and up. 65 mm is Hybrid territory.

Changing to a longer travel fork is so-so. It'll change the geometry and the steering response of the bike, make it more sluggish.

And it'll increase the load on the head tube-down tube junction, and the fork. Something may break.

At USD200 you won't be able to find a particularly better fork at full price, you'll have to buy used. And hope that you pick a good one.

You need to match steerer tube diameter(yours is a 1 1/8" straight), steerer tube length, type of brake mount and type of front axle(yours is a standard quick-release axle)

my one is about 28 pounds

I'm assuming the 21 refers to the number of gears. If that's the one it was $300 as new, so at most it'll be $100 today.

There's really no telling, as there's a wide span between different kinds of bicycles and different kinds of riding.

On the flat, with a cross-country MTB, maybe 25-30 MPH in a sprint.

With a Down-Hill MTB, maybe 50+ MPH.

The first commercially made banana seat bike sold in America was the Huffy "Penguin". A California bicycle distributor Pete Mole of "John T Bill & Co." contracted with Huffman manufacturing to build the bike which featured 20 inch wheels, a cantilever frame, a white "Persons 'Solo Polo' seat", and Wald brand high rise handlebars. The Penguin bicycles were delivered to the "John T. Bill Co." early in February 1963, and store sales began almost immediately. The official introduction to dealers was on Mar.3,1963 at the "John T.Bill" warehouse in Glendale California.

The Schwinn Sting-Ray was the second commercially sold banana seat (or "high rise) bicycle sold in America. It was first made in May 1963 - for the official June release of the bike by the Schwinn Corporation. The Schwinn Sting-Rays specifications were nearly identical to the earlier "Penguin" bikes.

John Brain

its a great invention because it can be used to get someone from one place to another fairly quickly while doing exercise. It also is a mode of transport which gives off no CO2 emissions.

Look up the manufacturer website and type in your Serial Number.

If the bike is complete right now, easiest thing is to read on the tire sidewalls. Somewhere there should be embossed the tire size. You can usually go a bit either wider or narrower on the same rims, but you can't change diameter.

If you find them, use the millimeter size. Inch sizes can sometimes be misleading, with several different sizes using the same numbers. There's about five different 26" for isntance which can't be mixed.

depends on the model and the condition that it's in. If you had a photo it'd be a lot easier to help.

Just to give you a rough estimate, if it's in fairly good shape it'd be worth between $75-$500 unless it's a really rare model.

All "true" BMX bikes are built for 20" wheels, which makes them very similar in size.

Yes. The first bicycle was introduced in 1817 by the German Baron Karl Von Drais and was called a 'Draisine' or a 'Draisienne'. It was a simple wooden construction with a wooden frame supported by two in-line wheels. The rider had to push the vehicle along withe the use of his/her feet while steering the front wheel.

In 1865, Frenchmen Pierre Michaux and Pierre Lallement added a mechanical crank drive with pedals on a large front wheel (the velocipede). This creation was made out of iron and wood which improved the reliability of the bicycle. The only way to increase the speed of the bicycle was to enlarge the front wheel which made it more difficult to steer and increased the probability of a crash.

In 1868, a Michaux bicycle was brought to Coventry, England by Rowley Turner, sales agent of the Coventry Sewing Machine Company. Later this company became the Coventry Machinist Company. The French model was used as a base for the Coventry Model.

The 1890's where the Golden Ages of the Bicycle, with many improvements that occurred in rapid succession. In 1888, Scotsman John Dunlop introduced the first practical pneumatic tire, which soon became the universal standard. Other improvements where the development of the rear freewheel which made coasting possible. In the 1890's this refinement led to the development of the coaster brakes, derailleur gears and cable-pull brakes.

These where the first models of the modern bicycle.

Depends a bit on which year you're talking about. Way back 10-spd used to mean two chainwheels at the front and 5 sprockets at the rear, making it a total of 10 speed. Today 10 speed usually means that you have 10 sprockets at the rear, and then 2 or 3 chainwheels at the front, making it a total of 20 or 30 gears. So if you have an old 10-spd(2x5) then the less old 21(3x7) will offer a greater number of different gear ratios. But if you're comparing a modern 10 speed(2-3x10)with a somewhat old 21 speed(3x7) then the 10 speed is likely to be a newer and better bike.

At that weight, you're beginning to push things a bit. Plenty of bikes will hold up for casual riding, but going over a curb too fast or things like that can certainly break things.

First off, I suggest you look for a rigid, steel frame mountainbike.

You might be tempted to go for a suspension bike, but the good stuff, like air/oil suspension won't be rated for your weight.

On top of that, rigids are cheaper anyhow.

Make sure the frame is big enough for you. Lighter people can run long stems and long exposed seat posts. For you, that's not ideal.

For comfort, fit the widest tires that frame/fork can take. Something like Schwalbe Big Apple comes to mind.

Next thing is wheels. Look for 36 spoke(or more), and wide, beefy rims. For casual riding, pretty much any 36H front wheel will do. Rears are trickier.

If you want external gears, see if your budget allows for a 40 or a 48 spoke tandem rear wheel. Or go for one with internal gears or a single speed. Wheels w/o external gears are inherently stronger, so a sensible choice if you want to stay within the easier available 36H.

And do try to shop from a reputable, local dealer. Dedicated riding at your weight will require better-than-average stuff, which takes some skill to source and put together.

plz waitng

depends on what rack you have.

I think all the XC90s came with the factory rack, but no crossbars.

There are 3 kinds of crossbars:

1. Thule standard crossbars (like LB50s) - these will take any thule load carriers (e.g. bike racks, ski racks, etc.

2. T-track crossbars - these will also take all thule load carriers but may require an additional adapter (Xadapt9 I think)

3. Wing profile bars - these will also take Thule load carriers, and I believe the track in them is like the T-track design. I ended up klugeing mine by modifying the hardware that came with the bike racks.

depends on what rack you have.

I think all the XC90s came with the factory rack, but no crossbars.

There are 3 kinds of crossbars:

1. Thule standard crossbars (like LB50s) - these will take any thule load carriers (e.g. bike racks, ski racks, etc.

2. T-track crossbars - these will also take all thule load carriers but may require an additional adapter (Xadapt9 I think)

3. Wing profile bars - these will also take Thule load carriers, and I believe the track in them is like the T-track design. I ended up klugeing mine by modifying the hardware that came with the bike racks.