I've worked on a lot of spirits and acclaims. Never have seen a shut off switch. Chrysler doesn't use shut off switches to my knowledge. That's a Ford thing.

The problem could be one of two things. The most comon problem is the multi-function switch, (the swotch that turns your brights on and your signals, and your wipers when the contacts get worn out the headlights may not work,) Also doge had some serious problems with ignition switches, not to be confused with the tumbler this is what the tumbler mounts in.

you have one of two problems. either you have a bad gauge or a bad sensor. I would go to a pick and pull junkyard and get a new sender off of a car at the junkyard, if that does not help, I would go back to the junkyard and get the gauge of another car and replace it. This will solve your problem Dodge Spirit and Plymouth Acclaims have issues with the temp sensor. Also, you could have a leaking head gasket which is my current problem on my 94 Spirit.

Removing the Key Switch requires a special torx bit screwdriver with a hole in it, or you can use a basic torx bit and use a drill with a small bit to drill out the center part of the screw with the stub in it that wont allow a normal torx bit to go into.

If you're blower motor isn't working, before replacing, check for power through the system by checking for continuity or voltage with a multimeter. The AC/Heating system gets it's own power through the ignition switch seperately from other accessories and only passes power in the RUN position, so check for power there first. If you don't have power at the ignition switch, check the fusible link between the battery and firewall (There's a whole group of them about a foot away from the firewall on the left side). I found out that was the problem with my ventilation system after I'd already torn apart the dash. If you have to replace the blower motor (make sure it is the blower motor first, because it's not a fun project), you'll have to remove the glovebox. You'll then have to remove the fan enclosure by removing several bolts. You'll probably have to replace the gasket as well, as the one in my car fell apart once the enclosure was removed. You'll then have to remove the fan by decompressing a spring clip and removing from the center spindle. You can then remove the fan. In my car, there wasn't a connector at the blower motor, so you'd have to desolder or cut the wires. If you do cut the wires, you'll have to resolder the new blower motor in and put heatshrink over the solder joints (adhesive preferably), as I don't believe it is advised to use crimps due to the amount of current. Ultimately there'll be soldering involved, most likely in a cramped space, so be careful of solder drips. If the fusible link is blown, check the connection at the ignition switch. Mine melted pretty severely, which is probably what blew the fusible link. If you change the fusible link, put a fuse holder in it's place. If you have to replace the ignition switch connector as well, solder everything... no crimps.

No input sensor. The vehicle speed sensor is located in the top of the housing that the right axle shaft goes into.

Could be that after you started it then turned it off then restarted it that you've reset the codes and fooled the Computer... you need to have the codes run on the car to see what the problem really is, i dont think its anything major since the car seems to be running good.

This is happening to my car too and I had the codes run and they did a scope on my engine and a bunch of other things and they could not find anything wrong. They said to be careful and monitor the temperature because it did occassionally show it was over heating but other than that not to worry. It has now also stopped over heating. Mine is a 94 but the problem sounds the same.

Fictional characters who can imitate anything they want to on a wim, like, for example, a shapeshifter might be a human, then randomly turn into a tree. These characters are fictional and unrealistic, however.

This is for a part lock/unlock throttle control circuit. The brain of the trans. I'd reset the battery, disconnect for 5 mins, then rescan after driving so the car gets hot and cold and relearns as to reset the IM monitors. If problems are still present, then it will show up again.

I have a quinstar Spirit II Sport. Have not had much luck with service since

Quinstar sold out on this product line. I recently found a dealer that seems to have purchased the rights to Spirit II. They have parts etc for Spirit II. Try www.mowstar.com

Jane

Although ive never changed the switch it shouldn't be hard... just remove the panel that goes around the steering shaft, it should be held in place with 3-4 star screws and of course the wiring... which all should be pretty easy to do and shouldn't take but like 30 minutes to change even for beginners.

i have a 94 dodge spirit with a 2.5. and the spark plug gap is 0.35 I have a 92 Spirit with the 2.5, all of the 2.5L engines have the cap of 0.350

That is actually really easy to do... the door pannel, considering there is no power options such as power windows... its just held on by acouple of screws and afew easy to pop clips that just needs a screw driver and a gentle nudge to pop plus you got the window raiser that raises it up and down and that's just on by 1 Phillips screw. Shouldnt take but like 5-10 mins to completely remove.

It is located in the backside of the engine, looking toward the firewall. you cannot see it from above the open hood, you need to raise the car securely and go under it. Removal is not difficult, but it is suggested to first clean the underside and backside of the engine to remove mud and dirt with a pressure washer, to be able to see where the starter motor mounting bols are. Amclaussen.

It is under the housing that the upper radiator hose hooks to on the engine.

It is under the housing that the upper radiator hose hooks to on the engine.

Well I don't know about yours, but my owners manual for my 1992 Dodge Spirit with a 3.0L V6, 3-speed automatic transmission says that it has a 60 L tank. Hope that helps.

THE ONE OF THE TWO ON THE STRUT TOWER CLOSET TO THE ENGINE. THE ONE OF THE TWO ON THE STRUT TOWER CLOSER TO THE ENGINE.

on my car you just use the key

bad engine mounts right side mount and lower front mount can casuse this problem, also check the driver side mount for the transaxle

There is no fuel pump relay, it is controlled my the CPU. Unfortunatly it is on the same circuit as the coil so if you have spark but no fuel it is the actual fuel pump. Now if you do not have spark or fuel, it is the computer. You can go to pick and pull and get another one, but if you are in a pinch you can run a jumper to the coil from the battery and it will energize both the coil and the fuel pump. This will get you back on the road temporarily or forever if you install a switch and run it to the battery. Note: this also makes a handy kill switch. I used to run these cars as taxicabs and we literally kept em going with duct tape and baling wire.. you

The fuel pump is in the tank and the relay is under the hook on the right side. I will guarantee you it is the fuel pump that is shot. Common in the Chrysler line. I've already replaced one in my caravan and one in my Spirit.

You have to drop the tank to replace them.

While it is a somewhat common failure, it is caused mainly by users who wait until the fuel tank is almosd dry before refueling. Remember the electric fuel pumps require some cooling for the electric motor in them, if the driver lets the fuel level to go down too much, the pump will star to overheat and also to cavitate, which together with oveheating are the main causes for pump failure.

I was fortunate to have bought my 1991 Spirit R/T from a friend who was told by several people to avoid going too low on the fuel tank level, and to refuel when it still has 1/4 tank of fuel remaining in the tank. So far, after 12 years of use, my Spirit R/T stiil had its fuel pump working perfectly, but it was its electricla connector the part that failed: the nylon block where the connector base on the tank started to leak fuel on the floor, because it had hairline cracks. since replacing the connector was abput half the price of a complete new pump, I decided to replace the entire assembly, taking care to completely empying the tank and cleaning and washing the tank interior with solvent and then with water and dishwashing detergent. After emptying it, I used a hair drier to completely dry it. Complete procedure took me about three hours. I still keep the original facftory pump as a spare, since it works properly. Amclaussen.

Total transmission capacity of the A413 automatic is almost nine quarts.

The parts are cheap - see sources and related links below. The procedure to replace them yourself should be in your owner's manual. Note, if multiple bulbs seem to be out at the same time, check your fuses first (info also in owner's manual).

passenger side under the glove box. you will need to take out the entire dash glove box. drain and unhook the aircondition lines from the firewall, you will also need to locate the four studs that stick out of the fire wall and take off the 7/16 nuts. your looking at approx. 10 to 15 hours worth of work.