Dog Training

Your dog is most likely trying to protect you.

Take your dog to the vet to ensure there are no internal or unseen injuries to your dog.

Then-- contact animal control and report a bite (if you got the name/address of the walker)

Thirdly-- contact the owner to pay most or all of the vet bills you incurred.

grooming a dog isn't hard. You can look into it from books or on the internet. But just following your instinct is good. However you might want to look into grooming for longhaired dogs as there are mmore tools used.

This county has a noise ordinance. If the barking is after 10pm or if it is incessant, you can file a complaint with your county prosecutor.

The best thing to do is to try to relax it with food. Or another way is to find its favorite spot. Begin scratching, I learned this with an experience with my dog, she was going crazy but i simply put her on my bed, (pushed her back down if she tried to get up) and scratched her fave spot.

take your dog for a walk or if you have a fenced in yard, let in run around for a while or take your dog to an open field, if it's not fenced-in, you should keep your puppy on a leash and run with it

you don't pay him, you have to audition to let him train your dog, otherwise you can pay him with kibble because legends have it that he is actually an alien dog that trains dogs from another universe and that is his weakness

They might be Jealous of each other or don't like each other. This has never happened to my Dogs, but my Answer is that some dogs may be Jealous or Annoyed.

This involves a lot of training. I would invest in a gentle leader this will help. Note when the dog usually lunges and put the gentle leader and leash on during those times. When the dog lunges, jerk back on the leash sharply and say "no" strictly and firmly. Continue to do so until the dog no longer lunges. If the dog doesn't lunge then award the dog with a treat or playing with it with its favorite toy. Continue to do this every time the dog lunges.

This happens a lot it's because either his teeth are hurting or it just doesn't want to.

Your dog is communicating something. The dog hears, sees and smells better than you probably and it probably is something. My dog barks once for us to let him in. He barks when his buddies go by.

No, 'Panda dogs' are usually Chow dogs, or some other breed of dog whose coat has been dyed to look like a Panda. And that can be dangerous for the dog.

All animals need to pee and poop. Birds are not able to separate their pee and poop, their feces are mixed.

That can be a tricky one to resolve. Your dog should always see you as the pack leader. This not only curbs unwanted behaviors, but also gives you dog a sense of security knowing that you are looking out for him. Don't try to take the toy away. stand facing you dog in a position that will block him escaping. Then just wait for him to give up the toy. Dogs aren't really that patient. 5 minutes tops. Once the dog has put the toy down and surrendered to you authority take it. Start making sure you dog knows that you control the food, toys and affection.

They run all year and slowly increase their distance and speed each time they run. ( they are still using a sled to pull the musher)

Once you buy food it automatically feeds it.

dear questioner it depends on number of things which make a Dog or a puppy stay small for life! malnutrion,breed's genetic make up of bone structure,lack of excercise. now the thing is 'small' in what way? for ex, a german shepherd must reach atleast 22 inches at shoulders at maturity but if given diet of high protien but with very low calcium diet it won't reach 22 inch @ shoulders.

Puppies lick you as a mere sign of affection. It is basically a dogs way of kissing somebody.

That is actually a two part question. For the coon-dog field trials that are sanctioned by the various kennel clubs that register coon-dogs, only registered coon-dogs are allowed to compete. But for the open class "coon-dog" field trials that are run for cash purses, like the Kenton National and other events, the dogs used are almost all greyhounds or greyhound crosses.

Yes, this is fine. However, you probably shouldn't take your puppy to a dog park or other place where older dogs run around a lot until he gets his first vaccination.

If you want to train your dog not to lick people, you should punish them each time you catch them doing it. But not only that. Make sure they know what they are being punished for. Do not let them get by with doing it, not even once, because it will ruin their training.

Dogs, like humans can be trained at any stage of life, you just have to deal with them where they are not where you are. Young dogs have little attention spans and lots of energy, old dogs have long attention spans but not a lot of energy; use these characteristics to make your training fun for both of you.

The, so far, best ways to train animals are called lure and cue or 'clicker' training. Lure relies on an animal to follow a potential treat to be moved to a specific position, then the animal is cued ('good dog' and the treat is given). Clicker training is tougher but the pair (trainer, trainee) can create much much more complex trained behaviors.

With clicker training a series of goals is prepared by the trainer and each will lead to the next in 'shaping' the behavior wanted. The animal is first taught that the clicker (or whistle or snap or ...) signals that a treat is forthcoming. In the beginning it must be delivered every time. After a number of times (trainers choice), the treats come in random groups: 1 time 1 treat, next time 3 treats, next time 2 treats, and so on. The period of time used is directly related to the age of the animal, young keep it short 5-10 mins at most, old, up to 20 mins per session (usually 1 session per day.)

After the animal starts to catch on that cue (click, whistle, snap) means "treats", the trainer will try a few "no-shows" - when they receive the cue, animal does the animal instantly look for the treats? If so you can now move on to the next stage, the first part of the behavior. If looking to train an animal to fetch, once the cue = treats you reward positive behavior i.e. watch for the animal to move towards the item that the trainer wants delivered. Let the animal wander a bit and every time they head that direction - cue:treat. Always work from positive, that is, don't push them, let them figure it as they go.

After the animal is headed towards the thing to be retrieved over and over, stop cuing and treating just for going to it. Now you are looking for them to touch it. Generally they will attempt the old behavior (walking to it) and will randomly hit it; cue: BIG treat. Now the animal gets confused but most times retries whatever they just did: cue-treat! The animal now tries the new behavior over and over. Remember to keep the sessions short, and reduce the treat level when you are consistently getting the wanted behavior.

Now move to the next goal, here getting their nose near the object. Make sure to no longer cue-treat for touching the object, you are now cue-treating for touching with the nose. Rinse and repeat till you get them almost pushing it around. Now try for putting open mouth on it.

This set of cue-treat works with ANY animal with the right treat. Humans, dogs, cats, chickens, anything - you just have to deal with the limitations of the animal and your own limitations.

As to speed of learning, old animals (people, dogs, cats...) have a slower time learning because they have more connections already there in their head and it takes a while for new things to get settled in. Young animals have less connections and less to change in their heads so 'learning' is faster. ALL animals (non-brain damaged) can learn, you just have to be a friend, not a commander. Note this has worked for dogs 3 months old, 3 years old, 17 years old. It has worked with Orcas, Dolphins, cats, chickens..... Every animal that can learn can do so all it's life.

There is no yelling, no shoving the animal around, no punishment - positive works and works best. Unless there is harm about to come to a human otherwise, use no other method: you waste your time and the dogs.

Typically, dogs do not poop anywhere near their sleeping quarters or "den". This is instinctual and usually taught to them by their mother when they are puppies. The mother will growl or nip at the puppy if it attempts to relieve itself in the "den". This is so predators or other hunting animals will not be attracted to the den by scent. However, if your dog is in the house and not near the "den" and has not been properly potty trained they will most assuredly go in the house. A dog does not understand the difference between going potty inside versus outside unless they are taught. Most dogs, if not trained from the beginning WILL prefer to go to the bathroom inside, as opposed to outside where there may be rain, snow, etc. Also, going poo poo is a very vulnerable moment for a dog where they are still and not on full alert while doing the doo, so once again if a dog is not potty trained they would much rather go inside. Wouldn't you? ;)

Puppies refuse to go into their crates if they don't enjoy being in there. It's as simple as that. You have to make sure that your puppy always considers his crate as a safe haven and a fun place to be.