Drywall

More than likely you have 1/2" or 5/8" drywall. Remove one of your electrical outlet covers, you should be able to see the depth of the drywall in the gap next to the outlet box.

Sweep it into heaps, shovel it into garbage bags. Now repeat with a much finer broom .

Drywall as we know it was first used around 1900.

It may be different for your area. In my area the garage ceilings and walls which join living area have to be 5/8". All others areas 1/2" is fine. In addition as a kitchen is a fire risk area there may be requirements for fire proof lining to be used as well as water proofed - contact you local building control (Local Government) tye will be happy to advise

horizontally, staggered. Do not have the joint on the top even with the joint on the bottom if you have more than one piece in the wall. Always hang the top first.

If is an exterior wall, insulation, otherwise bare studs walls are fine.

I am a licensed general contractor in San Francisco. I provided a customer a quote on drywall repairs. The customer signed a contract and we are in the middle of completing the project. I received a letter from the customer stating that the California state board of contractors said that we were not able to perform this duty with a B-license, we needed a C-9 drywall license. Is this correct that we can not do drywall installation with a B-license.

Augustine Sackett, of the New York Coal Tar Chemical Company and partner Fred Kane invented it around 1890.

Yes it can if you stir it well.

What causes the cracks is rapid temperature changes--if you were to leave the heat off for a week, then come home and turn the furnace on for a couple days, then leave for a week and so on, you'd get cracks. But if you were to let the house sit over the winter, allowing it to gradually change temperature, you'd be fine. (This omits the effects of mold.) This actually happens all the time--if a manufacturer builds a manufactured home in December and parks it in the storage yard until it sells in April, it will sustain freezing temperatures for several months without damaging it.

75

Sweep it into a pile and lift it into a garbage bag. You can shopvac it if you have a sponge filter in the shopvac, but it's a killer on motor bearings if you don't.

you dont..... you can by a paint product such as " Zinser " or " Kilz" to spray to block it from coming through your drywall. it comes in a spraybomb or gallon.

Yes, it's mould 'resistant' -that doesn't mean it won't get mould, just that it'll take more extreme conditions .

No. In fact the drywall will be ruined and need to be replaced. It will not be structurally sound and will attract mold. Certain types of drywall are more resistant to water and are used in areas that might get wet such as a kitchen or bathroom. But even then, it would need to be replaced in the scenario presented in the question.

yes it seems to be...not sure how much but ive been a drywaller for 20-21 years.

For drywall repair . bullet patching is cutting out a piece of gypsum board the same size as the hole but leaving all the paper on the face so you don't need tape to finish it - google" Bullet patch drywall" for images

If you expect your shower to last, then remove that drywall and re-finish it with concrete/fibre board. It's so much better than drywall you wouldn't believe it. Nobody professional does drywall around a shower anymore.

Jeff Yakobics in 1916, That's what i know from my research i have to do a stupid school thing on it. I hope im right but id cheack if i were you! :] goodluck!

If it's a small hole, like from a door knob, all you'll need is a big putty knife (called a taping knife) some wall board compound and some of the mesh type drywall joint tape.
Put a thin layer of compound on the wall, mush a couple of strips of joint tape into it and smooth it with the taping knife.
Leave it dry overnight. The compound shrinks as it dries and you'll probably have to add 1 or 2 more coats.
Thin coats dry faster and smooth easier. Sanding the compound makes a pretty big mess so go easy, if you're careful all you'll have to do is touch sand it at the end.

If it's a big hole, like somebody got their head slammed into it, you'll need to cut out the damaged area with a drywall saw (sometimes called a keyhole saw).
Get a couple of pieces of scrap wood, stick them in the hole so they bridge across it and run some drywall screws thru the drywall and into the wood to keep it in place. Don't drive the screws in too deep, you can actually drive them right thru the wallboard. Tighten them only enough to fill with a thin coat of wallboard compound.
Cut a piece of wallboard to fit into the hole. (It doesn't have to be a tight fit) Screw thru the patch into the wood you added. Don't push too hard on the screws or you'll tear the wood loose from the wall.
Use the same process on the joints around the patch as you would to fill a small hole.

Math skills and an carpentry apprenticeship.

Approximately 110 pounds.

Drywall provides an R-value of 0.32 for 3/8" board, 0.45 for 1/2" board, 0.56 for 5/8" and 0.83 for 1" board. In addition to increased R-value, thicker drywall has a higher STC.

sand it off or just throw it out...everything in it is organic which is why it rots after 6months or so.

Do not tip it into drains. Not only may it clog them, it acts as a pollutant in storm water systems and streams.

Selenite gypsum