Electric Windows

Huff it.

first i don't know what kind of car do you have but its very difficult you need to know fixed then you maybe cant find the cable an some parts that broke in the regulator we sell parts for fixed but you have 2 choices 1. buy a new window regulator but no Chinese because no are good quality and 2 some auto glasses repair windows regulators

If you hear no hum or whir when you push the button, maybe a bad fuse or the window motor. If you hear it and it won't work, may be off track or have some dirt or other foreign material stuck inside. If you are not mechanically inclined, don't mess with it. You could shatter the glass and maybe hurt yourself. And read your owmers manual and the model manual you can buy at most auto parts shops.

circuit breaker fuse

In the fuse box under the left side of the instument panel. It is a small rectangular box at the bottom right.

With a knife.

A sharp one.

The dealer and most repair shops would be able to fix this.

Through electrical wires.

you could have blown a fuse

its the same fuse for turn indicators and speedo

3m epoxy part number 08641

Eat it

Depends on the vehicle. Sometimes you can pull up on the glass and push the button and the motor will move just a little bit. Eventually, you will get the window up. If that doesn't work, you have to take the inside panel off. Some motors unbolt from the assembly, you take the motor off and raise the window and reinstall the motor to keep it up. This is easy for most newer cars that use a track to raise and lower the window. Older models, before the early 80's have a spring in the assembly to help raise the window. If you take the motor out on this type, you run the risk of loosing a finger. The window will raise quickly and if you are between the arms of the assembly, it is just like a pair of scissors.

If you can't take the motor out, some are made as part of the track assembly, you can remove the bolts or nuts that hold the bottom of the window to the assembly. There should be two bolts on the bottom edge of the glass, either a Phillips head or more likely a bolt with a 10 mm head. Take the bolts out and block the window up.

Undo the torx screw in the 'pocket' and pull it out gently. Unplug the cable and remove it completely.

The best thing to do, is take the inner part of the door open, and find what's jamming your window.

it depends on the frequency of the current in question. the higher the frequency, the less depth in the cross-section the current flows. this is termed skin depth.

For a 1987 there is no automatic doors or windows for A Chevy Astro Fuse is underneath the steering colum along the Driver side feet...

In my X-90, if you look under the dash just to the right of the steering wheel, you will see the fusebox hanging from above. Near one corner of it, along the long edge, there is a small unit with a shiny bottom and a hole in that surface. This resets the power window breaker.

Push a paperclip into the hole to reset the breaker.

Oh yes!! I just got busted at the inspection station. VA. law states that the drivers side window is the only window that must work on it's own power to pass inspection.

I assume your talking about the plastic clips that hold the window clamp on the rail.

I just bought a 2003 Lincoln ls two days ago, yesterday the passenger window broke. I took it apart and on the rail nearest the motor the plastic clips were both snapped off. My car was built in Feb. 2003 and the replacement cost for this assembly was around $220. If your car was built after July 2003 the part is about $80. Just my luck they changed the assembly that year.

I am trying to save a buck so decided to fix it. I bought a two part plastic welder and glued the clips back in place. I made sure to pile the paste on real thick and it worked great, seems stronger than before.

The problem I am having now is recoiling the wire in the spool. There is no slack to connect the wire once everything is routed in its proper place and wire is spooled. Working on it now.

If you order a new one make sure you now your manu date.

cause electrics are frozen

It would appear to me that you have a ground problem. The switch has a plate on the back of it. In the center of this plate there is a main GROUND WIRE & HOT WIRE. Easily located with your test light. The ground will be the wire next to the center hot wire.

Cut a small slit in this ground wire and remove covering. Attach a wire to this exposed wire and attach it to a bolt on the door. (Most any bolt will do that is accessible.) This will give your circuit a new functional ground. Make sure wire is long enough to allow you to reinstall the switch and door panel. This should solve problem.

Actually what you've been doing is creating a new ground with the clip from the test light. This gave you a false positive. Try this and email me at jjmrsf@nctc and let me know how you came out. If this doesn't work will offer other alternatives, but I am betting on this one.

jj

Well, i could give you a long tutorial on that answer but in the short version, you cant answer a question that was never asked. lol

If the power window motor is still working, it will cost under $100. They'll take the door panel off, get it back on track, and put it back together. This is most likely something you could do yourself in an hour or two. The motor costs another $150 or so.

You may have a short in the power window switch.