Electrical Wiring

You, my friend, have a problem with your hairdryer! The windings for your motor or the heater are brushing the ground system within the dryer. The whole reason we have GFCI systems is to prevent you from using that very device in your bathroom. Buy a new one!

Check the manufacturer's spec. You might be able to get away with this. Beware though, a reduced source voltage will manifest itself in a higher current draw, which results in an increase in heating.

depends on what the line is feeding. 220, 225, 230, 240, even 250 are all in the same catagory. power companies have increased their output voltages through the years. i would say 220 is minimum. if your connected load is a motor, they are more voltage sensitive, and should be run on 230 or 240. it makes the motor more effecient

yes. 110,115,120,125 and even 130 volts are all in the same catagory. as power companies increased their output voltages through the years, 110 became 115, then 120, and so on. when buying light bulbs, look for the 130 volts on the bulbs data. not wattage, voltage. they will last far longer than 115,120 volts

If you have to connect the neutral to ground to make the circuit work then you have an open neutral in your circuit. Be careful in handling the neutral as there can be voltage potential on the neutral if a load is connected. In a properly wired home that has been inspected by the local electrical inspector the neutral should be bonded to the ground at the main service distribution point. There will be a green screw that projects through the neutral bus and is threaded into the back of the electrical panel. This should be the one and only place in the whole electrical system where this neutral to ground connection takes place. Dangerous!!!!! The ground is the safety to prevent you from getting shocked due to a malfunctioning piece of equipment. By using the ground for a neutral you will be energizing the entire ground system of you house or business. Thus anything with metal on it and a ground wire going to it will be electrified if the ground fails at the breaker box or building ground rod. Do you want to take this risk? Not I..........

Yes. This is the same standard. The terms 208 and 220 mean the same thing, much like household voltage is sometimes called 110 or 120.

Black lights typically use the same amount of electricity as regular bulbs of the same wattage. The difference is in the type of light they emit: black lights emit ultraviolet (UV) light, which is not visible to the human eye but can make certain materials glow.

For a 200 amp service panel to the water meter, it is recommended to use a 4 AWG copper wire or 2 AWG aluminum wire as the ground wire. This will provide sufficient grounding capacity for the service panel and meet code requirements. Be sure to check local electrical codes for specific requirements in your area.

Piggyback off the box for the existing light. Run a wire from the existing junction box to a new junction box (which is placed wherever you want the new fixture). Then, in the existing box, connect the wire coming from the switch, the wire for the existing fixture, and the wire for the new fixture together using wire nuts. Wire up the new fixture, and presto, you have two fixtures on a switch where there was only one before.

In a 3-phase 3-wire system, each conductor does not have a fixed polarity. The phase relationship between the conductors determines the direction of current flow, which can change over time as the phases alternate.

to calculate the motor full load current one should know motor power factor, supply voltage and phase of supply. Assuming your motor is with 0.85 pf and 3 phase, 415V source then P = (Sqrt3)*V*I*pf 18500 = 1.732*415*0.85*I hence I = 30.2A

To stop a buzzing 12-volt transformer, check if it's properly grounded and that all connections are secure. Consider installing vibration-dampening materials or isolating the transformer from other components to reduce the noise. If the buzzing persists, it may indicate a faulty transformer that should be replaced.

You need an hen to hatch the egg not the bulb. Jokes apart if you want simulate warm condition suitable for an egg to hatch, you need to first know the right temperature required to hatch an egg. Then you need to get a suitable incandscent bulb of suitable wattage. It may be little higher than the body temperature of the hen.

It depends on what you want to do with the batteries. They can be connected in series to give you a total of 12 VDC. In a series connection a jumper is required between battery one's negative post to battery number two's positive post. If you want to increase the amp hours delivered at 6VDC they can be connected in parallel. In a parallel connection two jumpers are required. Battery one's negative post to battery two's negative post. Likewise the same procedure with the positive posts.

As the aircraft travels at high speeds through the air, friction between the air and the body of the aircraft create charge. This is why aircraft's have special rubber wheels which contain a conducting material, to release the charge into the ground when they land.

A breaker is a current activated device.

New to these forums so, not sure on the etiquette of improving the answer above. I didn't see a button to provide a second answer. That being said;

While the breaker reacts to current and not Voltage, Voltage drop to a motor load will cause that motor to draw more current, which can trip the breaker. The higher current draw will also create more Voltage drop, etc. Your best bet is just to stay within the industry standard of 3% drop for feeders, 5% for branch circuits. If this question doesn't involve motors, then Voltage drop outside tolerance will eventually cause the device to malfunction, depending on the severity of the drop, but won't effect the circuit breaker.

Reducing a 3-phase line to 1 or 2 phases can lead to unbalanced voltages and currents in the system, potentially causing issues such as overheating of equipment, reduced power quality, and inefficient operation of three-phase motors. It can also result in uneven distribution of power among the phases, which may affect the overall performance and stability of the electrical system.

Yes, in most cases, the ribbed wire is the neutral wire for appliances with non-color coded wires. However, it is always best to consult the installation manual for your specific dishwasher to confirm which wire is the neutral wire before making any connections. If you have doubts, consider contacting a professional electrician for assistance.

when you turn on a switch, you unbalance the circuit momentairly, thus dropping the voltage. it should recover in a few seconds. if not you might consider putting that switch and it's connected load on a separate circuit. if the switch and connected load are a good distance from it's power source, the voltage may be lower than at the source. the longer the wire, the lower the voltage

there is 1 black, 1 red, 1 white and 1 green in a 4 wire cord. the black and red are "hot wires"they carry power to the appliance. white wire returns unused electricity to the source. the green wire is the ground, most important wire in the cable. make very sure it's properly connected. if your cord has other colors than the above, THROW IT AWAY