Electrical Wiring

In the UK, a Domestic Electrical Installation certificate along with a schedule of tests and a schedule of inspection signed off by an approved electrician should be issued, as above any upgrade must comply with the current regulations, currently 17th edition.

Test must be done on all cables, this includes (not necessarily limited to):

• continuity of protective conductors

• continuity of final ring circuit
• Insulation Resistance test
• Polarity Dead

then a board could be installed.

• then test polarity live
• earth fault loop impedance
• earth electrode (if any, TT system)
• prospective fault current
• prospective short circuit current
• loop impedance values at end of lines
• RCD tests

Make sure any derivations of the regulations are noted, if any of the above tests fail, cables could need replacing. All cables must have an acceptable current carrying capacity and be suitably fused!

There is more but without writing the whole of the 2391 test and inspection book I think this should put you off from doing it!

Leave it to the professionals.

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Keep in mind that any changes made to an existing electrical system have to bring it up to current code regulations. This means you will need wiring permits and inspections. Your old panel board most likely will have to be disconnected from your supply utility and they will not reconnect until they get approval from the electrical inspector. This type of installation falls under the category of a "Service Upgrade".

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In most cases yes. If the wiring is sloppy, it may be a sign that the wiring should be at least checked pretty carefully.

Get an electrician in to take a look, and give you an estimate.

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Remember, that depending on your local ordinances, and how your wiring is done a lot of the new breakers must now be arc-fault to be code-conformant. (It may mean some rewiring.)

Electricians know which brands and models work best with the situations currently in the box. THIS IS NOT A PLACE TO SKIMP!

(If you plan on adding on to your house, you should plan for the electrical now)

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS

WORK SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

The ground wire is NEVER used to provide a reference to create 110v for the controls of the dryer. That is the job of the neutral wire and why dryers are fed with a three wire cable. With the loss of the neutral the dryer would not start as it needs the 120 volts to bring the heating contactor and the motor contactor into activation.

In many cases, the ground wire is used to provide a reference to create 110v for the controls of the dryer. With the loss of the ground, the dryer's control circuitry 'floated' as high as 220/240 volts.

Usually, the small electric motor that drives the control knob can not handle these voltages, also the control contacts and any additional coils will burn up as well.

There could be extensive damage, and may not be worth repairing the dryer.

Yes if the bulb is an incandescent type of bulb.

for USA, Canada and other countries running a 60 Hz supply service.

The grounding of a mobile home is coverd by the same regulation as used for single family dwellings. Two ten foot, 5/8ths of an inch, ground rods driven into the ground ten foot apart or a ground plate with the same surface area as the rods dug into the earth to a depth of two feet. The wire from the rods or plate, sized by the amperage of the electrical panel, is connected to the same neutral bar that the incoming street neutral connects to in the electrical panel.

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Drive a long rod in the ground and run a wire from the rod to the mobile home

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

You should check that you are not running too many appliances on the circuit that is protected by the circuit breaker.

If you are absolutely sure that the circuit is not being overloaded, you should replace the breaker with a new identical breaker. Breakers get hot when they supply power at near peak amperage over a long period of time and begin to break down internally.

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

You don't. For battery power you have to install its own separate and isolated system. <><><>

As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

Armoured cable is not rated for direct burial. Use a cable that is rated for direct burial or use a PVC conduit to pull the cable through. PVC burial is two feet, three feet if vehicular traffic will pass over the conduit.

For more information please click the middle buttonbelow.

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If the site is in the UK, to comply with the latest Wiring Regulations it is essential to install an RCD to protect the buried armoured cable and the associated external light fittings.

For more information please read the Related link shown below the Related questions for this answer.

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

If the question is asking about an appliance plugged into a normal wall-mounted switched socket outlet, if the switch is in the Off position no live electricity should be fed to any appliance that is plugged-in, but it is always possible that the wall outlet has been wired wrongly so that its switch is in the Neutral wire instead of where it should be, in the Live or Hot wire. Then, if there is a fault as is described in the second answer (see below), it would cause the circuit breaker to trip Off to break the supply of power even if the wall socket outlet's switch is in the Off position. Another possibility, which is by no means unusual but can tricky to diagnose, is if there is a short between a Neutral and a Ground wire anywhere in the building and the main breaker panel contains an RCD protective device (also known as a GFCI) as is required nowadays for all new installations or full building rewires in a 50Hz area such as the UK or Eire. With an RCD in the main breaker panel to protect all power circuits, if there is a short between a Neutral and Ground wire anywhere in the wiring then the protective device will trip even if no power is being taken by any appliance. For instance if the Neutral and Earth wires were carelessly stripped of insulation to connect them to the terminals of a socket outlet and the Earth wire was not properly sleeved with yellow and green sleeving, the Neutral and Earth wires can easily touch and this would cause an RCD to trip.

Such faults typically show up when a main consumer fuse box has been upgraded to a modern consumer panel containing an RCD and miniature circuit breakers but the old wiring and socket outlets were simply left in place without beuing thoroughly checked. When the old consumer fuse box was in place - before the RCD was installed - any Neutral and Ground wires which were touching behind a socket outlet would not have caused the circuit' fuse or circuit breaker to shut off the power! For more information see the answers to the Related Questions shown below. <><><>

It apparently has a short between the hot power lead and the casing of the appliance. Since the casing is grounded, as it should be, this presents a direct short across the incomming power leads and trips the circuit protector. That keeps you from being shocked or electrocuted. This is a good thing. Replace the appliance. <><><>

As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

You will need to have a three wire feeding your well pump motor to do this. It will be connected like a sub panel breaker box. A new breaker for the pump out of the new panel and a 15 amp breaker for the new receptacle. Both of these circuits must be protected by their own breaker. <><><> As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed. Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized. IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

The L6-20 is a 20 amp 250 volt (two pole, three wire grounding) receptacle There would be no neutral connected to this device. The L14-20 is a 125/250 volt (three pole, four wire grounding) receptacle If you can find a neutral in the junction box of the generator you can connect the L14 in place of the L6. Existing hot wires to the X and Y terminals, ground to the G terminal, and the newly found neutral to the W terminal.

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As always, if you are in doubt about what to do, the best advice anyone should give you is to call a licensed electrician to advise what work is needed.

Before you do any work yourself,

on electrical circuits, equipment or appliances,

always use a test meter to ensure the circuit is, in fact, de-energized.

IF YOU ARE NOT ALREADY SURE YOU CAN DO THIS JOB

SAFELY AND COMPETENTLY

REFER THIS WORK TO QUALIFIED PROFESSIONALS.

Faulty electrical wiring would mean the wiring has some condition that makes it unsuitable or unsafe for use.

FAULTY is an adjective which means:

Containing a fault or defect; imperfect or defective.

Obsolete. Deserving of blame; guilty.

From American Heritage Dictionary:

This means that if an electrical wiring contains a fault or defect it is...?

FAULTY ELECTRICAL WIRING

If the electrical wiring is imperfect or defective it is...?

FAULTY ELECTRICAL WIRING

If the electrical wiring becomes obsolete it is...?

FAULTY ELECTRICAL WIRING

If the electrical wiring is deserving of blame or guilty for whatever reason it is...?

FAULTY ELECTRICAL WIRING.

Possible problems may include but are not limited to the following:

• Non compliance with the Codes and standards prepared by experts in the industry
• Lack or improper maintenance (all electrical wiring will undergo a normal rate of deterioratin and as such may be defective and obsolete in the future)
• Loose, corroded or dirty connections
• Wiring size too small for the intended load
• Miswired connections (swapped hot and neutral, etc.)
• Missing or damaged insulation
• Missing safety ground wire
• Incorrect installation (protection from damage, etc.)
• Wiring not suitable for location (underground installation where wire is not rated for wet locations, etc.)
• Excessive voltage drop due to long wiring runs (must increase wire size above legally required minimums)
• Lack or improper maintenance
• Non-compliance with the Code
• Probably many more...

See some Related Links below on what experts say about Faulty Electrical Wiring.

Yes, but I do not know of an adapter per se. Expose your 220V power lines. There should be two hot wires (black and red). They can technically be split apart and wired to two separate 110V outlets, but the neutral wire would have to be shared (not split, shared), same with the ground wire.

You will need a stepdown transformer to convert 3-phase 480V down to 120V. An electrician is going to have to do this.

It depends on the country in which you live. In European countries, for example, a 230-V single-phase supply is obtained between one of the three line conductors and the neutral conductor. No transformer is necessary, as European three-phase, four-wire, systems operate at 400/230 V.