To replace the fog lamp bulbs; Step-1. You will have to jack the car up in the front to allow easy access to the fog lamps. Step-2. You will have to lay down to see where the actual opening is for the fog lamp. Step-3. Reach your hand inside the opening where the bulb is located. Step-4. Twist the housing that is holding the bulb to your left (remember righty tightie & lefty loosie) to remove the bulb. Step-5. Replace the bulb by actually doing the reverse and remember (righty tighty and lefty loosie). Step-6. Smile you are finished.
AS with most automobiles, there is a drain plug on the oil pan, so first you would drain the oil, and then replace the drain plug. The more difficult part with the I-30 is the oil filter, which is located just above the passenger side front tire, the access is somewhat tight, but that's where you will find it, I find it easier to access if I turn the wheels to the full right lock position, and I gain access from the front. Once you remove and replace the filter, you simply refill the Oil from the hole provided on the valve cover.
Roll down both windows (due to the auto-rollup when closing doors)
Remove the "hoodledge' cover (black plastic battery cover)
Remove the negative terminal first, then positive
Remove battery fix frame by inserting a screwdriver under the lip of the inner circle of each of the rivets
Remove relay box from bracket
Remove battery.
Reinstall in reverse (Including the pos then neg terminals)
Taken from service manual. Section SC.
Remove 5 screws under steering column Crack open and remove steering column covers. Lower Steering wheel Remove two screws on top of instrument shroud Pop out bottom of shroud which has retaining clips Remove two connectors on left side of shroud by squeezing locking tabs Unscrew air sensor on right side of shroud Remove shroud Remove three mounting screws and pull out instrument cluster Remove three connectors on back of cluster by squeezing locking tabs
If you look under the bumper in the area of the fog lamp, you will see a plastic cover preventing access. There is about a 2 " hole in this cover. If you look into the hole you will see a screw head. This is the fog lamp assembly screw. You must remove it to remove the assembly to get at the bulb. However, you really need to remove a few screws and clips to get under this access cover. This is the only way you can remove the bulb wires from the back of the assembly as the assembly slides forward out of the bumber. After you get under this plastic cover, remove the side bulb by twisting slightly counter clockwise. Remove the Fog lamp wire by twisting that connector as well. There will be two wires still connected to the back of the fog lamp. remove these carefully. There is a push clip on the side of fog lamp assembly toward the engine. Push this with your finger or the head of a screwdriver. Push on the back of the assembly and it should slide out. Once out, you should be able to figure out how to remove and replace the bulb and then re-install. There is also a PDF repair manual on www.pdftown.com that you can download for free. Once downloaded, you can open each chapter as individual PDFs. The password for each doc is "pdftown.com"
There's a solinoid in the transmission.Suggest to check that first.
Turn on interior lights. Start engine. If the lights go out when the engine stalls, you have a bad ignition switch.
It is located underneath the air filter, at the driver's side. Therefore you have to remove that filter and its base while you are standing (the car need not to be jacked). I hope this would be helpful to you.
"http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_shop_labor_hours_to_replace_a_knock_sensor_on_a_infiniti_q45_1997"
Personal experiences and the solutions:
After the battery make sure you check the battery cable connecters. For some reason I have had really bad luck with them. I spent a lot of money looking for problems that weren't there.
I have a 2000 infiniti i30 and mine made the same clicking noise and would not even turn over. After checking all fuses and electrical connections, it was thought to be the starter. It was starting fine days before but just went out suddenly. I had the old starter and the new starter tested before purchasing the new one. Mine was held by 2 bolts which you must remove the air filter housing to get to and a series of extensions and swivels and breaker bar. Hope this helps.
This is likely an issue with the neutral safety switch.
I had the same problem w/97 I30t, After a new battery, starter and almost a new alternator it truned out to be a type of modulator inside the steering column. The part was about 70-75 bucks. I have not had a problem since.
I had the identical problem with my 96 I30 after letting it sit for a year and after recharging the battery. I have 343,600 miles on mine and I'm the original and only owner. I downloaded the schematic diagrams for the electrical system. I took out fuse #17 (10 Amp) which basically shut down the anti-theft (start) and it still didn't start. After checking that fuse #33 (7.5 Amp) was good, I replaced the starter (very first one) and it's working fine. The only other thing it could be is the inhibitor switch (Park or Neutral switch) so try both positions and if it doesn't start in either Park or Neutral, it's probably the starter. Bought the starter brand new on Ebay for $75 delivered!
Trouble code P0740 means:Torque converter clutch circuit malfunction