The sound is probably from the power steering pump. If the sound gets louder when you turn the wheel, it's a sure bet. Check the fluid level, but with the age of the vehicle, the noise may be permanent unless the pump is replaced.

Open the hood and look for a acess hole in the radiater support bracket just above the headlite. You will need a long torx screw driver to reach the adjustment screw (only one for each lite). Good luck.

Allow the car to cool. Remove radiator cap. Add water or coolant to fill radiator. Start engine leaving cap off. check to see if coolant is circulating in radiator. Locate upper rad hose, and squeeze to move air bubbles out, or to ecourage circulation. If large air bubble works its way out, add coolant to fill. Once coolant starts to expand and spill out, replace cap. Watch temperature gauge to esure the problem has been rectified. You may have to repeat this procedure.

Make sure the e-brake is fully disengaged. Then even still since the e-brake shoes use the inside of the rear rotor for braking there can be some build up of rust. You need work to rotor off. It takes some time and patience but it works. It might also depend on how much material you have left on your e-brake shoes. When I changed mine I had no material left on the shoes and it was still somewhat difficult to remove the rotor. Hopefully this helps.

The light-bulb actually heats the base of the plastic lens assembly where the bulb plugs into. This allows the metal contacts for the bulb to sink into the plastic a little bit, causing the metal to loose contact with the bulb.

The simple fix is to pry the metal contacts up a little so they will make contact with the bulb again. It doesn't take much, so be careful.

I myself would not do this as the Jeep is a Uni-body construction and if you catch the plow on a curb you could bend the body to a point where the doors will not open.

Its on the passenger side underneath the dash. Take off the kick panel that's right below the glove compartment (2 screws you can see underneath, 2 you have to take off the glove compartment door to get to). Once you get that off, its really easy to see. There are 2 bolts (size about 7mm) holding it in and a locking clip with the 4 blower swith wires coming out.

YOU CANT THEY ARE SELF SET.

I have a 2006 lberty and there is a star key type screw on each headlight near te radiator that allows you to adjust the beam up and down. Its recessed just below an opening on top of the light.

On the 318 V8 UNDER HOOD, CENTER, REAR ENGINE AREA, PASSENGER SIDE OF DISTRIBUTOR, MOUNTED IN BLOCK On the 4.0 V6 UNDER HOOD, PASSENGER SIDE, LOWER ENGINE AREA, ABOVE OIL PAN, MOUNTED IN ENGINE BLOCK

Tail lights-- You have to unscrew the three bolts inside the hatch, pull the tail light toward you, then turn the bulb at the top.

Third brake light-- You have to take (4) screws out of the plastic trim around the top of the hatch inside. Then remove the plastic trim and turn whichever bulb is burnt out and replace it.

I live in the Midwest and my 1995 Country now has 330,000+ miles and I have always gone with the standard 10w30 and 5w30. The main consideration is what climate you live in - then check what is the recommended weight for the temperatures you are driving in.

This link should help.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f140/how-2005-2009-grand-cherokee-wk-fog-light-install-867728/

VERY CAREFULLY is the first answer. The part for V8s is driover side lower corner inside fan schroud. I've done cooling system work several times and always had trouble with the cheap A.. plastic drain cock. Just broke mine. Hope like hadies it can be replaced.

Since it is so high mileage I think I would just pull the pan and change the 4-6 quarts that are in the pan and replace the filter. If you go to a place that flushes transmissions, I have known that with the new fluid the lining comes off of the fiber plates.

. use atf+4 from Chrysler dealer or it destroys the clutches.

1. heat control linkage disconnected or broken or vacuum source problems(low vaccum source or broken vacuum lines) 2. heater unit doors stuck or non functioning heater door actuators

how much freon does a 2002 jeep cherokee limited hold

It is a ridiculous design it actually drains inside the uni-body frame rail, you will have to remove the dash to get to the hvac unit and replace the seal that seal it against the firewall from the passenger side so it will stop leaking inside the car, or you could cut a hole inside the fender well to get to it and attach a drain hose that will drain inside the fender well through the hole that you made.

I had this problem and found and answer on the internet. Find your computer, mine is next to windshield wiper water bottle. Pull off the plastic cover than unplug the leads to computer. You will see two screws back them out one turn. That is it. Some how the cover is shorting the computer because the screws are to tight, Mine is a 1996 Cherokee Limited.

Need to find the leak first. Usual place to check is at the lines. They rot out & start to leak. Make sure the trany fluid is at the proper level, start the vehicle to pressurize the system, crawl under and see where the drips are coming from

I believe all 93-98 Grand Cherokees are the same but basically you just pull and pry (gently of course) until the whole headlight pulls...well pops really...out. Then you have access to the back of it to change the bulb and it just pushes back in. It is a little tricky and i think a screwdriver works best but really be careful what your prying against because most of it is plastic and can crack. Taking this out will also give you access to the screws holding the parking/turn signal lights.

I've got a 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo V8 w/ Quadtrac & have had to replace some light bulbs in it. To get the headlight off, you have to unscrew the top screw which is in the corner closest to the fender, and then there's another screw between the headlight & the front blinker even though there's absolutely no room. I could find no way to get a screwdriver or any other took to fit in there & the repair shop had no idea how to replace it. I was told by a friend that you can get an Allen wrench in there? I ended up breaking the brackets for the bottom screws on both headlights, but you can keep the headlight staying in with just the top screw.

The reset switch for the fuel pump on a 95 Nissan Altima is in the trunk. It is located next to the rear speakers.

in the kick panel on the drivers side forward of the door there is a control box velcroed to the inside. this is the intermittent wiper control box if your wipers dont park or they wont spray windshield fluid this box is more likely the cause. a quick way to test this is to disconnect the box on both ends. then connect the two plugs together. your wipers will work in the low and high position only but they will park when shut off, also the windshield waasher fluid should spray again too. what you need to do is replace that control box, or if you think you can fix it open it up and look for the burnt solder strip on the board. I fixed mine three times this winter alone and all i used was stranded wire copper wire pieces looped around the broken solder strips

There are two of them. One under the hood on the passenger side in the fuse box. The other one is in the interior fuse box located inside near the floor on the passenger side.

usually it should take 2-3 cans depending if its empty you will know though if the bottle wont dispurse any more fluid