The PDC is the under hood fuse box, right next to the battery.

the index everyone should have a manual for their vehicle, and the local library should have a SHOP manual available in the reference section--make copies of the right info and read up..you'll be a pro in no time ...good luck:)

It depends on the type of damage to the latch, it could be frozen with rust or the lock\unlock mechanism could just be stuck. There are 2 rod actuators from the inside handle, one for locking and one for latch release. To get to them you will most likely have to remove the inner door panel.

To remove the door panel with door closed: 1. Remove all screws holding inner door panel on. In the case of a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee there are 3 screws, 1 Phillips in the finger well used to pull the door closed, 1 Torx under the handle for the door release and 1 Phillips under a plastic plug opposite the side view mirror.

2. Remove passenger seat: There are 4 bolts on the floor, two in front of the seat that bolt into a beam that runs left to right under the seat and two behind the seat down into the floor most likely covered by two plastic covers. The covers look like doomed wedges on the carpet and snap in place, to remove covers pull them straight back. Once the bolts are all removed tilt the seat forward and check underneath for wire that may need unplugging.

3. Release back half of door panel. There are plastic snap locks all the way around the door panel every 8 inches or so. To replace line up and hit with your palm. If you don�t have and or know how to use a door panel snap puller you can remove by getting your fingers or something that wont scratch the metal or cut the plastic panel between the door and the plastic door panel in the top rear quarter of the panel. I always try to get my fingers between the rubber seal against the side window and the top rear corner of the door panel and pull briskly. You must be between the rubber window seal and the plastic door panel. The snaps will have to be removed for as much of the door panel as the dash board will allow by working out from the corner and around the top and bottom to the dash.

Once the door panel can be flexed away from the door you will have to pull back the weather seal from the rear of the door to access the large access hole in the lower rear part of the steal door. I recommend cool to warm weather as hot temperatures will make the mastic sticky and cold temperatures hard to separate.

You can access the locking mechanisms.

Try the rods to see if they work. You can find which is which and the direction they move by moving the handle and lock on the inside.

If it still wont open Follow to rods to see where the latching mechanism is inside the door and spray with a penetrating oil.

Remove the rods from the handles on the panel by turning the plastic snap away from the rod and lifting the rod from the hole. Remember which is which.

Now push and pull on the locking rod ending in a pull. Then try the door handle rod. You may have to follow them inside the door a work the parts on the latch it self.

That should work if not you need to get inside the door more and work on the latch.

The horns are located under the passenger side head light behind the front bumper. You have to trace the wires back to the relay.

Here's a start from Richard Wheeldon wheeldon88@yahoo.co.uk - though I don't have specific knowledge of the Grand Cherokee, but heres how I would do it.

The thermostat restricts the flow of coolant circulating to the radiator whilst the motor is still warming up. It is located in the waterline between the cylinder head and the radiator.

Here is where I break into this answer (giant167).

On the 4.7L v-8, the thermostat is located on the bottom left of the engine block. You must drain the radiator and remove the bottom hose to access the thermostat housing.

Mr. Wheeldon continues now.

You might want to loosen the bottom radiator hose clip to drain out and save about 4 pints of the coolant before you start. Look at the top of the radiator and find a large diameter rubber hose headed towards the motor. It should terminate at a dome-shaped housing at one end of the top of the motor. There will be three or more bolts securing the housing. Remove the housing being careful not to damage the paper gasket that seals the housing and hook out the old thermostat. Replace it with one of the same type and temperature rating, making sure it is the same way up. Either replace the gasket or use some gasket past to seal the joint when you replace the housing. Don't over-tighten the bolts. Make sure all the hose clips are secure, then replace the coolant and top it up to the correct level.

Good job!

This part is not independently serviceable. It comes as an assembly on the power track. It is likely that the driveshaft to the motor is broken anyway so even if you could replace just one motor it would do you no good. You should remove the entire power track assembly from the cushion and order a replacement from the dealership or online. In any case make sure you contact the dealer to request the correct torques to re-install any fasteners.

4.0L holds 6 quarts
5.2L holds 5 quarts

Bit more info would help answer that question. Engine type would help. However, if you are asking because you believe that it should hold way more than you just put in you may have an air blockage. These thing s are notorious for air pockets stopping fluid flow. After changing many parts, I realized that the fluid wasnt even leaving the overflow tank . Removed overflow tank, takes about two minutes, I ran a coat hanger down the open end of the steel pipe and voila, large calcium like build up. worked the coat hangetr around flushed the pipe with water and re attached tank. That allowed flow, and removed the air pocket.

I havent done this on that model year. however, the engine is very much the same for a long time.I had to remove the shroud on top of the radiator to get enough room to work. The fan shroud is partially attached with a metal cap on top of the radiator. Two bolts on top completely exposed remove this cap.Next remove the nuts from the fan clutch assembly. Remove the fan clutch. Stand the fan clutch upright. The fluid has to stay upright as it is mounted on the water pump. I don't know why.Remove the hoses and bolts on the water pump. Remove pump.Clean the surface from where the pump was mounted. Scrape with a metal spatula or the like. Clean with a solvent. Do not use any degreasing solvents they tend to leave behind an oily residue that will impede a good seal for the gasket goo. The new water pump has to have a clean surface for the gaskett and gasket goo to take hold. When you buy the pump ask the parts guy what you hould use for gasket goo(there are several).remove the studs from the old pump. You will need them to mount the fan clutch. Do this by taking a couple of nuts threaded on one stud at a time. Cinch one on nut on the other. It will not take much torque. Twist the stud off grasping the inside nut with an end wrench.Reinstall on new pump in reverse process. Maybe wait to install pump before stud installation.Install pump: use the provided gasket with your new pump. Apply gaskett goo onto the engine side surface and the pump surface. Apply gasket to the pump. Align with bolt holes with bolts in place as necessary. Slap the booger on the engine with a couple of bolt. Start all bolts threading before you tighten. Do not over tighten. I cant tell you the torque measurement,but tighten so as to compress the gasket plenty. reattach the fan clutch. reattach the hoses. Start up the jeep with the radiator cap off. Observe the level of fluid add correct measurement of water and coolant listed in your owners manual or fluid bottle.Close the cap when fluid is to the top. Add fluid to reservoir as necessary.

Good Luck

DO NOT REPLACE THE BCM!!! TRY THIS FIRST! I found the way to fix this. It's a bad switch in either/both the driver or passenger side front door. The switch is located at the bottom of the door opposite the hinge. The switch is used to tell the car that the door was unlocked and to turn on the lights. If you pull back the door cover on the bottom (You do not need to remove the cover completely) and pull back that plastic you will see the plug for the switch down in that bottom corner. Just unplug one switch and try closing and locking the doors. If the lights still don't go off try unplugging the other switch and doing the same. I'm not sure how much these switches are, but If you decide not to replace it you will see the following effects (There may be more, but these are the only ones I'm aware of): 1.) The lights will not turn on when that door is unlocked. 2.) If the alarm is set and you unlock only that door and enter the vehicle, the alarm will sound. Hope that helps. -Broofus See discussion area below for the absolute fix for a 1997 Jeep Cherokee; as the above switches are not in a 1997...but I have the fix....sixhackers

a) Bolts 1 - 14) 22 ft lbs b) Bolts 1 - 14) 45 ft lbs c) check all are at 45 ft lbs d) Bolts 1-10) 110 ft lbs e) Bolts 11-13) 100 ft lbs f) Bolts 12-14) 110 ft lbs From the front, bolt #'s are... 12, 8, 4, 1, 5, 9, 13 11, 7, 3, 2, 6, 10, 14 12 & 11 are at front 13 & 14 are at rear Notes: Hold 14 up with tape. Use loctite 592 on bolt 11

If you are referring to the grid on the window you have to find the break. A test light works well for this purpose. There is a paint product available at auto parts stores that works as a bridge to complete the connection in the grid.

There is a difference between the two, however your 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a modern version of the conventional shock system, where the shock and coil spring are separated under the live axle. Good news is anyone with an extension, socket wrench, channel lock pliers and 13 14 and 15 millimeter sockets can change them out in a matter of minutes.

First empty all the oil from the motor. Then remove all the bolts from the oil pan. Depending on how rusted the pan may be, replacement may be in order. If you do need to replace the oil pan also plan to replace the gasket and the front and rear main seals. Depending on your model of GC check for the parts at www.partstrain.com Also, most pans are made pretty well and all you have is top or surface rust and can be removed with a wire brush, then repainted with some Hi-Temp paint. If this is the case, still plan to replace the gasket and seals. Lastly, one of the best things I ever did the last time I replaced the oil gasket and seals, was to put a magnet inside at the bottom of the pan after I cleaned it out, right near the drain plug. This will help to collect any metal flakes.

change your pcv filter and pcv sensor that pops into your valve cover

THIS HAPPEND TO ME .. IF YOU OPEN THE DRIVERS SIDE DOOR IN THE JAMB . LOOK FOR THE WIRE HARNESS THAT JOINS TO THE DOOR TO THE INSIDE DOOR JAMB, YOU WILL NEED TO REMOVE THAT HARNESS I THINK IT WAS A 6 OR 8 MM BOLT.. THAT HARNESS GETS PINCHED AND CAUSES A BREAK IN THE WIRING ,, VERY COMMON. EASY TO FIX ALSO...YOU CAN GET A GOOD ONE FROM A JUNK YARD FOR ABOUT 20 BUCKS.. SPIKED2U@AOL.COM

FRONT AXLE ± 0.3 L (2 oz.) C200F 1.7 L (57.5 oz.) C200FE 1.7 L (57.5 oz.) REAR AXLE ± 0.3 L (2 oz.) C213R 2.07 L (70 oz.)* C213RE 2.24L (75.5 oz.) *Vari-Lok, add 0.07 L (2.5 oz.) of Friction Modifier.

I've read somewhere that the 4.7 L V8 chucks out 235 hp @ 4800 RPM. Not very impressive, if you ask me, especially by today's standards. But what makes it cool is the torque (~300 Lb.ft). very cool to drive.

Code 55 comes at the end of every code reading. It tells you that that is the end of the trouble codes. What ever code you get before it is the problem. If you get no code before, then you have no problems that you powertrain control module recognizes.