Jeep

yes. XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX It is illegal to remove it. That is Federal law.

I think you are talking about the dash pad - the soft vinyl part on the top of the dash. It's a TRICKY one at first glance, but EASY!!!! There are like 4 - 5 bolts that you can see to take off on the front - I'm sure you have those off. And it probably seems like it's almost off - but it's not. Look on the far left and far right of the windshield on the inside, just below where the windshield meets the frame of the Jeep (on the outside, it will be right where the hinges are I think). You'll see a knob that looks like what you'd turn an oven on with. Those are screws. Remove those screws and fold your windshield down. CAREFUL - make sure your top is off or loose enough to get the windshield down. If you have a hard top, you might need a buddy to lift it up while you fold, or just take it off. Also, if your windshield hasn't been down in a while, it might need a squirt of WD-40 and a little TLC to fold down. Mine (I have an 84 too0 was surprisingly easy to get down!) Behind the windshield, kinda on the back of the firewall area, you'll see a few more screws that hold the pad, just like on the inside…sorry, I don't remember how many…I took my dash off last weekend and didn't count! Happy restoration!

There is a resistor near the blower that is bad, known cause is high speed only.

The song is "Rocky Me Gently" by Andy Kim for the Jeep Commercial with the birds and animals.

The spring side of the thermostat goes towards the engine.

Andy Kim's "Rock Me Gently"

The firing order is 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2.

You might need to programming the remote. Their should be instructions in the users manual. You're remote could also be need new batteries.

Are all tires the same size, brand, model, inflation pressure, and wear? If not, correct as needed.

Are you in 4WD? Many Jeeps have full time 4WD so it will always be in 4WD.

4WD often causes squeal/squeak in tight turns.

Do you have limited slip? Limited slip may require an additive (posi-juice) to be quiet.

Yes if it is a 4.0.

oil presure always ran @ 60-80 psi , had oil changed @ 161K now runs @ 40psi!!! Changed oil sending unit, 10-30 castrol oil & filter , STILL @ 40 psi. ANY IDEAS thanks Paul

Water can not leak from the rear main seal, only oil. Most likely there is a leaking freeze plug near the rear main seal dripping water onto it.

You probably turned them on by accident. They are controlled with the same pull switch that turns on the headlights. By twisting the switch to the far left it will click and the dome lights will turn on, by twisting it to the right it will turn off the interior lights and will then dim the dashboard lights.

Ive been trying to fix the same problem for a while. As far as I can figure, It could be almost anything (not very promising is it) Try the easiest and cheapest first. Vacuum lines, fuel filter, Run the expensive gas for a fill up. (actually that ones not very inexpensive) flush your radiator, check all fluids (tranny could even cause this surging) clean throttle body, O2 censor, (If its been driven like my grandmothers car for years it might be carbon build up), Air filter, plugs and wires and when that's all done you know it might be something bigger.

it is located in the tank but you can get to it without dropping the tank. It is located top side..look for the fuel lines...and do you know how to hook up the vacuum lines on that same truck? or can you send me a picture of them?

Seized Engine?

Weak battery?

Loose or corroded battery cables?

Bad starter?

Bad starter solenoid?

Bad neutral or clutch safety switch?

The head light is a sealed unit. The outer sense is not removable.

yes I have done many times

Check instructions in the users manual.

Check the brake light switch located on the brake pedal lever. If there is power to the switch but nothing coming out replace it. Did you check the bulbs? Is there power to the rear sockets?

Engine oil?

Large port on passenger side with cap that says "ENGINE OIL".

What kind? 20W-50 weight oil.

If you don't see it (I assume you're talking about the clutch slave cylinder) it's probably got an internal slave. An internal slave cylinder is located inside the clutch housing. Servicing of this unit will require removal of the transmission. Do not forget to replace the roll pin and retainer clip (if equipped) that holds the slave cylinder/release bearing assembly in place.

On any vehicle with a hydraulic clutch, you can find the slave by following the hydraulic line from the master cylinder to it's end.

I put it in through the shift tower (with the shift lever removed.)

Other people might do it an easier way.

The tune up specs I have on my 73 cj5 for the inline six cylinder w/ one brl are idle rpm 700 Dwell 31-34 degrees Timing 3 degrees before tdc Spark plug gap .035

5/16, or 3/8 depending on the year