Jeep

You have to remove the starter and the sensor is behind there in the rear of the engine block.

The trailer plug in the Jeep may be wired wrong. Make sure the tail light plug is connected to the jeep taillight circuit. Some trailer plugs include a "hot" wire that allows the trailer to run a few accessories. Your trailer tail lights may be connected to that circuit.

Actually there is no servicable fuel filter on the Jeep TJs. Like many other Chrysler products the only thong that resembles a fuel filter is a strainer on the bottom of the fuel pump. It's really not something to worry about until the fuel pump quits working. The strainer should be replaced whenever the pump is.

A vehicle needs three things to run. Air, Fuel and spark. You didnt say if it turns over or not. If it doesnt turn over you could have a dead or bad battery which would be fixed by replacing the battery or testing the charging system. If it turns over but no start check for spark and fuel pressure and that you are getting air into the intake. If the battery is charged and it does nothing check the starter.

i bought an Air Raid intake system and throttle body spacer. it cost just over $300, and it feels like i have a new jeep. it was very easy to install, took me less than an hour. i have 33 inch tires, and my 4.0 had a hard time keeping up in fifth gear before the install. now my power is better throughout the rpms. generally, any time you decrease the airflows resistance from intake to exhaust, horsepower, gas mileage, and throttle response is increased.

it uses HOAT coolant. it appears orange in color

Park of level ground, drain the oil, remove and replace the filter, pour in 4.5 quarts of oil, start the engine and run for 3 minutes, shut it off and let set for 30 minutes, check the oil level and top off. You now know how much oil it holds.

---No, the International and AMC have two completely different bolt patterns. AMC's 304 was built by AMC and the IH 304 was built by IH. Furthermore, the IH 727 was built to IH's specs, so more than the extra steels and clutches, tighter tolerances and bolt pattern will make it different. The throttle operates a linkage that mounts to the transmission and operates a throttle lever on the transmission, which in turn operates the valve body. In other words, the Chrysler 727 is vacuum modulated and the IH 727 is mechanical. You'll never get it to run right without the linkage and I hope you took time to unbolt rather than cut parts out with a torch. ---As for torque converters, I have no idea what would/wouldn't work with AMC. AFAIK, the only Chrysler torque converter that works on an IH 727, when bolting to an IH 304, is the 10". It all depends on which engine the 72 Scout had. If the 72 Scout had a 258 6-cylinder engine, which was made by AMC, then the transmission will have the same bolt pattern as the AMC 304. It was a stock engine available in the Scouts.

You can't expect more than a 20- to 25-degree differential with a standard home central AC unit. Older, less-efficient units will struggle to reduce indoor temps even the 20 degrees below outdoor temps.

It will have to go to a garage with the correct equipment to evacuate the system and then recharge it, its not possible to do this at home.Hope this helps

Do you want to replace all the wiring or just part? There's a company known as PAINLESS WIRING DO a google search on them, they are a leader in the wiring of autos, they can even make up a custom wiring harness if you need it. If you just need replacement wiring, maybe check the local salvage yards but that may be a tough find.

Gas leak. Have this fixed ASAP!

Put more oil in if its not full already, other wise it will tick until the oil has fully gone through the system. Does it tick during idle or all the time?

Other wise why are you just bothered about the idle time ticking? Especially if its only for a few mins.

I have the same question for a 1995 Jeep hatch - not much help other than to validate the question.

Remove the old master cylinder. Use line wrenches to avoid damage to the brake line fittings. Bench bleed the the new master cylinder you have purchased. The parts store will tell you how to accomplish this and sell you the necessary bleed kit. Carefully install the new master cylinder. Reconnect the brake lines and do not over tighten. Now with a helper, bleed the brake system. Start at the Right Rear wheel. Find the bleeder located on the back side of the wheel at the wheel cylinder. It should have a small rubber cap. Remove the cap and using a boxed in wrench, loosen the bleeder valve slightly while your helper is applying steady pressure to the brake pedal. The pedal will go to the floor and you will see and hear air bubbles come for the bleeder. Tighten the valve and then tell the helper to release the brake pedal and do it all over again. Keep doing this until no air appears. Periodically check the master cylinder and do not allow the fluid level to get too low as it will suck more air into the system. Remind you helper to never release the brake pedal until you give the OK. If he releases the pedal while the valve is open, air will be drawn into the system. Now after bleeding the RR wheel, move to the LR, then RF, and finish with the LF.

Remove door panel Remove Latch cover Remove cotter pin holding latch bar to handle actuator--move bar to the side Remove two clips on the left and right side of handle look at new handles to determine how clips are removed Slide key toward top of door on each side (this may be difficult, but they will slide up--use manual persuasion if necessary) Slide old handle out and remove the tin trim ring from around it. Place the ring around the new handle, and replace handle in door (Leave the retaining clips on the new handle) Slide the keys down until it will move no more--then gently tap down a little with some more manual persuasion. Replace the actuator bar and cotter pin, and put everything back together.

It would be helpful to tell us what kind of Jeep you have. But I believe 1995 Jeeps had OBD1. Anything older than 1996 is OBD1. the port on the jeep is located under the dash at the column it should be a little black box thing the about size of a match box that you can take the cover off of to locate the port.

If it is a 4.2, the fuel filter is in-line and located between the fuel pump and the carburetor. Mine is right in front of the carb. If it is the 2.5 fuel injected motor, the filter is located on the left frame rail behind a shield just in front of the shock absorber.

No. The YJ componets are larger than the CJ.

It's not important, just tighten it.

I'm not actually sure, but my sister had hers done, and it cost her around $8,000. It depends on how much work the doctor would actually have to do, so the price varies. Best prices are being practiced in Colombia by the hands of fine surgeons. Price will range from USD$3400 to USD$6300 if you do it in colombia. IN THE USA PRICE WILL DOUBLE MOST OF TIMES. AMERICANS HAVE BEEN CHOOSING A COLOMBIAN/AMERICAN CLINIC IN BOGOTA FOR THEY ARE SAFER, LESS EXPENSIVE AND STILL FINANCE SURGERY FOR MOST FOREIGNER. The average cost of an ordinary brest lift is $/£6000

The PH2 is the new 22mmx1.5 thread that is used on the 2008+ cars with metric filter threads.

This is usually due to a binding that happens when the rear wheels have turned at a different speed than the front due to turning left or right. the shift lever could be bent or dirty needing cleaning and lube, or you could have low fluid level in your T-Case. If you have the vacume type shifter in your front end, a line may have a leak or fallen off. The vacume unit on your front end if you have one may be bad and need either cleaning or replacement. I hope this gives you a place to start looking.

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