at least 80 lbs.

this model is rear wheel drive

Really, really easy. Facing front of engine, locate top radiator hose. Hose goes into engine on the top, right hand side of engine. When engine is cold, loosen hose clamp enough to be able to slide clamp away from engine on radiator hose. Use a phillips screwdriver. You do not have to loosen clamp all the way and remove it. After sliding clamp down a few inches, wiggle hose end where clamp was attached left to right and up and down until it slides off. Thermostat

is right inside the opening. Lift the old one out, set the new one in (no tools or anything needed for that). Slide the hose back on, put the clamp back where it was and tighten it and you're done! Don't wait too long to do this- a thermostat costs like $7.00, but if you wait too long the plastic overflow tank will dry rot and crack. After that the radiator, water pump and possibly the engine block will crack, resulting in about a $3,000 to $4,000 repair bill.

The 2003 Mazda MPV wiper blade sizes are 24" wiper blades on both sides front and a 16" rear wiper. See Sources and Related Links below for more information. Since there are over 22 different wiper arm attachments, do not buy wipers just by length only - be sure to lookup exact wiper blade part numbers by vehicle make, model and year for the brand wiper you decide to purchase. This ensures correct length AND correct attachment.

"Where is the PCV valve on a 2001 Mazda MPV?"

I have done this and it's very hard to see. It's on the back side of the motor, somewhere behind the throttle body. Got to WWW.MPVCLUB.COM and ask there. I put pictures in a thread about it but it was long ago and I don't know if the pics are still around or how hard it will be to find the thread.

Yes

are the cooling fans coming on

You should change all of the belts at once, even if one is going bad because you have to take ALL of the belts off to get to the Alternator/Fan belt. It is the farthest in the back and it is impossible to change on its own.

You have to take the A/C belt off first. There's a pulley on the right with a 10mm bolt on the top (you'll have to loosen this to take the belt off) and a 12 or 14mm nut on the front of the pulley (you'll have to loosen this larger nut to get the pulley chassis to move so you can take the belt off). Once you've gotten it loose, you;ll be able to take of the first of three belts. Next is the power steering belt.

Underneath the alternator is another pulley with a guard around it. Follow the belt that pulls it towards the engine. You'll notice a device similar to the one on the right. Again, loosen the nut in front of the pulley and then loosen the bolt on top. The second belt will now come off.

The last belt is the Alternator/Fan belt. It's a little tricky because the loosening mechanism is different. Instead of having a system where there is a long bolt that tightens the belt to the axle of the pulley, there are two mounting bolts. One is located right behind the bolt that loosens the Power Steering belt. The other will be located right on top of the alternator itself and will be bolted to a rocker arm. Remove the bolt that attaches the alternator to the rocker arm and LOOSEN the bolt that attaches the rocker arm to the engine. You will physically move the alternator to the RIGHT to remove the belt. You will have to get the belt around the fan blades, so get the belt off of all other pulleys first. The way I get the belt off of the fan blades is by taking the belt and feeding it over the fan blades into the fan housing (I do it this way because it's easier to figure out how to put the damn thing back on). Once the entire belt is off of the drive shaft for the fan, I pull the belt out from the top of the fan housing.

Now the alternator/fan belt is the last belt you took off, so it'll be the first one you put on. But the bolts back into their respective places but DO NOT tighten them yet. Tightening these bolts is the last thing you should do. Once you've got that go ahead and put the power steering belt back on. You may have to loosen the pulleys some more because the new belts are tighter than the old ones. Again, don;t tighten these bolts yet. Put the A/C belt back on now.

I recommend tightening the belts back on a little at a time, and doing so evenly. Over-tightening the bolts wont break the belt, but you'll be driving to an auto part store asking for new bolts (who knew that the belts would be stronger than the bolts?) When you get to the alternator things will get tricky again. Tighten the bolt that holds the rocker arm to the engine FIRST. Once you;ve done that you can tighten the bolt that holds the alternator to the rocker arm. I have to add something here: there is no easy way to tell if the alternator is tight enough without turning on the car, make sure that the bolt is good and tight before you turn on the car though, because you'll end up destroying your alternator if you're not careful. The alternator belt usually can't go on any more than a little past hand-tight because the only way to adjust it is with your hands.

Some quick notes:

If you have extension bars for your ratchet set, use them. The spaces are extremely tight, and the parts around these spaces are kinda sharp. I've cut myself a few times changing these belts.

I would also suggest investing in a "cheater bar". It's a sturdy length of pipe a little wider than the butt of your ratchet. Place it where you would put your hand on the ratchet for extra leverage. This is extremely useful for those hard-to0loosen pulley nuts and really useful for tightening things up. Just be careful not to break any bolts.

One last thing: When replacing nuts/bolts you've completely removed, be sure to add some lube to them. WD-40 won't cut it. You'll need a good axle grease, or better yet, there's a blue colored bolt lubricant that is available at most auto supply stores and hardware stores. It's made with Teflon so things don;t freeze up together and it's also a corrosion inhibitor.

Hope this helps!

Low coolant?

Cooling fan not working?

Radiator plugged or dirty and needs to be boiled or flushed?

Defective radiator cap?

Behind the front grille is an electric fan motor. It is supposed to come on when you turn on the AC to keep the radiator cooler. If it's not coming on, and the car is sitting, the longer you sit, the hotter it gets. Once the car starts moving again, it starts to cool down. You could have a bad motor or a bad motor relay. I swapped 2 relays and it did the same thing. Got another motor from a junk yard, good as new.

time as putting the chains of distribution of a 2000 mazda mpv

Do not need an answer any more. Mazda dealer replaced the complete seat mechanism for $931. Using a used car seat. It appears that the motors can not be replaced individually.

Of course there is. Front of engine left to right 4-5-6. Rear of engine left to right 1-2-3. Firing order 1-4-2-5-3-6.

MPVclub.com has a somewhat detailed description on how to do it. If you remove the plastic you will expose three of the six. Then you have to remove the plenum/manifold. Check out the details on the website. Hope this helps.

If the check engine light is blinking that means an engine cylinder misfire has been

detected

the bottom radiator hose goes right to it

It stands for Engine Coolant Temperature. I believe it is wired up to your hot/cold gauge in the dashboard of the vehicle. It screws into the side of the engine and monitors the temp of your radiator fluid as it circulates.

What is the cost to replace the head gasket on a Mazda MPV?

I replaced the shocks on my '94 4wd with a Monroe air shock kit. Your part store will search out the right product number for you. I haven't hooked it up to the ALL (automatic leveler) yet, but just charged the sealed system to about 85 psi and left it. The same shocks will just hook right up to the on board compressor, but I left mine leaking for too long and ran the compressor ragged trying to keep up with the lift, and now need to replace that, too. So far they are working great and I have pulled a compressor from a donor car in a scrap yard for about $40 used, but havn't got around to installing it.

My Mazda Protege LX did the same thing, especially when it was hot out. I eventually found out it was a loose wire behind my overdrive switch located in the shift column. The overdrive button pops right out with a tight grasp and a little tug. See if both wires are still connected to the switch.

It's on the passenger side against the firewall, it has a plastic cap on it with a capital L

all timing marks are on the belts and cams. just line them all up and it will be timed

The alternator on my 1990 MPV failed and I tried to renew it myself, it seemed like a pretty simple task as the alternator is easily accessed. When I loosened the belt and removed the mounting bolts I found that the alternator will not slide off the mounting bar as it is blocked (just barely enough) by the power steering unit. I did not want to remove that unit so I simply put it all back and paid a local Chevrolet dealership the $65 dollars and I am good to go. It is simply to much to do without a lift.

1997 Mazda MPV's SUCK A**! Do your self a favor and save yourself a lot of headaches and get rid of the turd!