Turn the key on but don't start it. and pump the gas pedal 3 times quickly this should turn it off.
Dunno about turning the vehicle off and pumping the gas (Someone's joke I guess). But the instrument cluster has a switch (on the back) on the Speedometer end of the cluster. Switch it up. I was replacing my steering wheel and then decided to try this. I did, and my MAINT REQ light is currently off. Unplug your battery, and remove the steering wheel. The steering wheel was the easiest steering wheel I have EVER removed. There are 4, 10mm nuts on the backside of the steering wheel. That removes the Airbag/center of the steering wheel. With the battery disconnected, unplug the 3 plugs that operate the airbag, remove Airbag/center. Now exposed is a 17mm nut in the center of the steering wheel, remove it. Now simply rock the steering wheel back and forth, side to side while pulling it toward the rear of the vehicle. NO STEERING WHEEL PULLER IS REQUIRED. I've done this twice on two separate vehicles and did not need a steering wheel puller. Now you can remove 3 simple phillip head screws on the dash to expose the cluster. Then you will see 3 more phillip head screws holding the cluster, remove them and then the cluster is free except for what is plugged into it. I unplugged everything to remove the cluster entirely. But now that I know where the switch is I think I could just reach to the backside and flick it up. One REAL BIG KEY HERE. DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION KEY ON TO CHECK THE LIGHT WHITHOUT THE AIRBAG HOOKED UP! Because if you do, the SRS light will come on because it is not reading a valid connection with the Airbag. That's where I am now, trying to figure out how to turn out the SRS light. Anyway, I know that whole operation sounds complicated, but it is not. On a scale of 1-5, i'd rate it a 2 (at the most!). It took me just more than one hour. Having done it twice now, I'd bet I could do it in 40 min or less, no joke. I'm guessin you don't have to remove the steering wheel to get to the instrument cluster, but it was pretty easy. Good luck, I hope this has helped and by all means please post some mechanical information to help someone else so we can all share. Thanks, Brownsoxx
Somewhat following the above info: I removed the two Phillips screws in the front of the speedometer panel and the one between the panel and the windshield(you will need a very short screwdriver for this). The screw is underneath a small rectangular plastic tab. Next, pull the cover forward, you will need to disconnect the wires on the left side of the panel, in my case it was the cruise control switch and three other connectors in the back. Swing the panel over so you can look in the back of it. Next, on the left side of the panel you will find a small, black, slide-type switch. Just reset the switch, put everything back the way it was, and you're done. I didn't have to remove the steering wheel. The actual job takes about 15 minutes. I don't think it can be done without removing the panel. Thanks to the original poster--you saved my butt. I needed to get it smogged and it would not have passed with the "maint" light on. The mechanic I took it to didn't know how to reset the stupid light.
Are you talking about ALL the lights, or just the dash lights? If it is just the dash lights, you might have a bad ground for the dash electronics, or bad connection at the Dash Dimmer control. But if you are talking about headlights, too, check the gound wires on the battery... perhaps wiggle them around until the lights flash. The brake light switch should not do this. It only controls the back lights. if its only the dash lights lighting up when you hit the brake, check the brake bulbs and make sure that they are the correct bulbs. (dual filament) and that the base of the bulbs contacts arent touching
Special Procedure for 1990 monter.
First you ground the No10 terminal on the Computer's Diagnostic port.
Second, you ground the timing wire located on the fireware near the brake master. (it easy to find, its one strand wire with a connecter acting as a cover on it.)
Make sure you have a timing gun, and know how to use it.
Get ready to check idle speed with tachometer tool.
From this point on, its conventional knowledge... Goodluck.
Hi have same problem my Montero 2001 serial 99F60514 model MR563520
I don't know, I wish somebody in the whole world would tell me.
You will need to drain the water from your 2002 Montero cooling system. Remove the water pump belt. Remove the water pump return hose. Remove the water pump retaining bolts. Reverse the process to install the new water pump.
Several makes of ATF fluid can be used instead of Mitsubishi Diamond. Amsoil is one in the UK. Whatever you use make sure it says SP111 Mitsubishi equivalent and nothing else.
The fuse for the computer in Mitsubishi Montero 1990 is located under the plate called fuse panel. This is where you will find the fuse.
Distributorship of 1994 Montero can be located in most Mitsubishi car dealers worldwide. Montero is a popular sport utility vehicle of Mitsubishi.
The Drum brakes on the rear from memory are self adjusting,but on saying that after about 12mths they seem to forget that point ! Lift the rear wheels off the ground & remove the wheels & then the brake drums. You will see a geared wheel on the adjusting bar ,using a screw driver turn this wheel to open the brake pads about 12 turns then refit the Bake drum & turn the hub there should be a marked differance! If the hub won't turn take the drum off & turn the whell 2 or3 turns the oppposite way or if the hub spins freely open the adjuster several more turns . Do this on both sides. If the break shoes are any thiner than 2mm (1/8th of a inch ) replace them ! The same applies for the front discs these adjust themselves
Towing capacity 5000 pounds
http://www.theautochannel.com/vehicles/new/reviews/1998/gap9814.html
if its non-turbo then,
Fit a Turbo KIT in it & then you will get: MAX 12-16km/Litre Diesel but only
IF it is perfectly tuned engine with proper air intake system.
while the TURBO compress it becomes HOT, so to install Intercooler KIT is another addition to the system which is excellent idea, but only if you live a very HOT country; 50+ Degree Celsius, otherwise intercoolers are not necessary.
Use get best mileage use a SYNTHETIC oil accordingly to the temperature of your country/city.
10w50 is universal mostly!
but if your country is not so HOT, use 10w40
if your country is cold and goes below -10, use 5w30
You can get a rebuilt starter with the trade in of your old core at any chain auto parts store starting at around $70. They go up in price from there depending if you are buying new and what brand.
As a matter of note most if not all chain stores offer lifetime guarantee
Fuel tank have to come down.
Remove the, 4 - 14mm nuts holding the tank, lower the tank to a safe level to disconnect all hoses and electrical connectors from the tank.
Replace the Fuel Pump assembly unit.
Reverse all steps for re-installation of the fuel thank
The transfer case is shifted to either the 4HI or 4LO pos but is not locked in fully or its a malfuncion.
I recently had this happen as well and it was the solenoid valve on the vacuume of the 4 wheel drive. Aamco fixed it great and it is a part that only the dealer carries.
You have to pull the front of the engine apart.
It is a VERY big job and possibly too difficult for your average owner to complete.
The water-pump mounts directly to the front of the cast iron engine block (behind all the belts and aluminum shrouding). You have to R&R the intake manifold, cooling shroud, radiator, alternator, p/s pump, A/C compressor, timing belts and tensioning and idler pulleys etc to get down to it.
If you do decide to attempt this yourself do NOT cheap out... replace the timing belt(s) and BOTH halves of the water pump while you are in there.
Be sure to get a digital camera and take lots of pictures as you take it apart to help you see where all of the things go putting it back together.
Best of luck with this one.
Firstly, go purchase a cheap digital multimeter (from radio shack or harbor freight, starting at about $5 ). Put the meter in dc volt mode, 12 volts (or more) range. Hold the black meter probe on a metal body/engine ground-point and probe the wire in question with the red probe while the circuit is powered on.
If the wire has 12v + power on it you will get a volt reading. If the wire is open or has ground on it then there will be no 12volt reading.
Next, if there was no reading, repeat the test with the red probe attached onto the cars battery at the PLUS terminal (+), then probe the wire in question with the black probe (with the circuit powered up). If there is a 12volt reading then that wire has ground on it, no response means an open wire or the wire has B+ power on it.
Your electical system should be safe if you use a digital volt meter for this operation.
WARNING! Use the info following at your own risk! Improper use of a testlight can DESTROY your controller circuits!
If the circuit under test is a high power circuit (enough amperage normally goes thru the wire in question to light up a 12 volt lightbulb or headlight for instance) then a digital voltmeter CAN give a false indication of 12 volt power as that type of meter draws virtually no power to speak of. In other words, the meter can indicate power but a high resistance connection in the circuit could still prevent enough current flow to light up a bulb.
You can test this type of circuit with a load generating tester know as a 12 volt testlight. Here is where the danger lies; If in fact you are probing into a digital control circuit with a testlight (instead of the power circuit you thought you were working on) you will short it out and most likely destroy the solidstate control mechanism.
You can test for ground by clipping the testlight cord to B+ befor probing the wires or you can test for power by clipping the testlight cord to ground befor probing a powered on circuit. You can also test a bulb by grounding one contact and probing another with a testlight clipped to B+, if the testlight comes on at all no matter how dimly then the bulb filament connected to the terminal you probed is good.
To determine the highbeam wire unplug the connector from the headlight and probe the connections carefully for B+ with the circuit powered up. The one that has power only when the high beams are turned on (blue light on dashboard lit up) is for the highbeams. The one with no power ever is the ground and the other is for the lowbeams.
without being too confusing.
E BAY HAS A PARTIAL ONE 10/17/08
where is neutral safety located on 98 mitsubishi montero
The human eyes contains liquid that protects it from ultraviolet and infrared rays as well as particles that may enter it.
The blinking allows for the spreading of this liquid so that the eyes do not dry out.
At the same time, it may allow for disposal of particles that may have entered the eye.
The center console is held in place by 4 screws...2 screws inside the arm rest storage area and 2 screws on the change tray below the hand break lever. Be sure to pull up the hand break lever to lift the center console off...Good Luck
The first step would be to ring a dealer or servicing specialist for your vehicle make (i.e Toyota, Audi etc) and qoute what make, model and year your car is.
Your car's oil change requirements may be very specific and require more frequent oil changes, or your car may only require spaced intervals between oil changes and this would allow you to waste money on un-needed oil changes.
Your car may have a service manual in the glove box or boot that will have very specific or recommended servicing times, although these are sometimes lost.
It is most advisable to try to obtain as accurate servicing information for your specific car as you can, as prolonged oil changes can cause your car serious damage.
As a rule of thumb, the average driver drives around 10,000 to 14,000km per year. The average oil change is about every 5,000km. So this is roughly every 5,000km or every 6 months, which ever comes first!
Alongside an oil change, the oil filter MUST be changed as well, no exceptions. Always ask your mechanic what a standard " Car Service" should include.
A basic "Car Service" should contain the following, although some mechanics may do more or less.
Check and change oil and oil filter.
Check air filter and change if necessary.
Check transmission fluid level.
Check coolant level and top up if necessary.
Grease and lubricate suspension and steering joints where and as fitted.
Check fuel filter and change if necessary.
Check brake fluid and change if necessary.
Check clutch fluid and top up if necessary.
Check power steering fluids and top up if necessary.
Check condition of brake pads for wear.
Generally check car for smooth operation of engine, transmission, hand and foot braking systems, cockpit controls, all lights/warning signals.
Notice some of these items are only checked and not changed. Some of these items are changed, not checked and it really depends on your mechanics idea of a standard cost "Car Servicing". Always ask specifically what their procedures are, if any fail yo be polite or obliging to your questions or fail to give you specific answers, just find another one. Always be polite though, you may need them if other ones are worse!