mine does too. 99 malibu...seems like when it guts warmed up it seems to go. ONly had problem 2X where I thought it was not gonna go.

If your blower motor is either not turning itself off, or randomly turning itself on with the ignition off (and you have auto climate control), the problem is the blower control module. Located directly behind the blower motor, it takes information from the climate control, and is in charge of turning the blower on/off.

To replace the blower control module, remove the splash shield under the passenger side dash (there's 3 plastic retainers hold it in place). The blower control module is located behind the blower motor, and is held in with 3 bolts. The 2 rearmost bolts (by the firewall) only need to be loosened, and the front one removed. The entire unit rotates down and can then be replaced.

Most likely from corrosion. Not much you can really do about it if you used good quality parts. you might want to check your lug nuts to see if there all the way tighten.

If you DON'T have auto air controls (with a fancy thermostat) then it only works on high because of a bad blower resistor pack. This is almost an easy fix. Why it makes noise is probably something down in the 'squirrel cage'. Take out the cabin air filter -- accessible from under the hood -- and look down into the cage with a flashlight.

If you DO have auto controls.. the fan speed issue needs to go to a professional.

Sounds like problem may be in the multifunction switch in steering column Probably a broken switch, flasher or relay. Check all the light circuit fuses, flashers and relays first (easy). If nothing found there, suspect the switch in the column (not so easy). A bad flasher should affect the rear signals the same as the front. The highbeams being on all the time sounds like a bad switch in the steering column to me, but I'd check both the fuse panels (under hood and on side of dashboard) for the easy stuff first.

ALSO...

I had this same problem of a fast blink and the front marker light not working. The bulb itself was fine, but I noticed corrosion and burnt plastic on the bulb itself.

I cleaned the wire contacts on the bulb, then pried carefully on the wire with a pocket knife to "bump" it up a bit for better seating contact.

It worked like a charm on both the left and right signals.

Have not had an issue again in several months now.

Unplug the whole light assembly from the bottom front of the car it just pops out to replace the turn signal bulb-same on the rear but you have to remove the trunk lining first.

You need to remove the window switch panel first. It presses in there CAREFULY push it towards the front of the car with a screwdriver pry up from the back. There is a plastic clip on the front you can break very easily they are about 60 dollars at the dealer if you break it. There is one screw behind there. There is one screw out in the open behind the door closer handle. There is one screw behind the door latch opener you need to carefully remove the cover panel. There is one screw on the bottom of the door facing up. Just run your hand across the bottom of the door. Should just lift off. Rich

Under the engine and hood

Remove the shifter handle.

At the front of the shifter there is a small horizontal slit. If you slide a flat head screw driver into the the button and pry upwards a two pronged holder will slide out. Hard to get to when it's in park. Might need to use needle nose pliers. Once the holder is out, pull up on the shifter, wiggling and twisting it until it comes off. There will remain a silver tube that is split at the top and a yellow plastic post that slides in and out of the tube. It's very easy to push down the plastic post with your thumb and shift the car. Car has to be on, brake has to be in.

This is a bad situation though. In an accident you or a passenger might be thrown onto the shifter post, complicating an otherwise survivable accident. (That's why there's such a big, padded handle on the top so people don't spear themselves on the shifter when the car rolls over.) I don't recommend driving around without a shift handle. Go straight to a junk yard or dealer and replace it.

If the button is stuck in then after removing the handle you can jam a screw driver into the bottom of the shifter and free it. If the spring inside is still working you can then replace the handle before driving.

If the shifter button broken I've posted an answer to "How to you remove the shift button on a 1999 Olds Intrigue?" that details how to repair one.

do u have traction control as well if so is that light on to if yes , its proably wheel speed sensor which is built in wheel hub not hard to change 6 bolts,u need to find somewherre with code reader to tell u which wheel, the hubs cost 150-350 depend where and which grade u buy

ps the main shaft nut is 160 ft pds torque

if you have the Bose system you might need to hook up the aftermarket amp wire to the factory amp

I hope you enjoy disassembling the entire dash of your vehicle. First, make sure this is your problem. Troubleshoot all other avenues, especially if it is a power related problem. Also check the cable that runs from your ignition switch to the shifter to be sure it is in tact and operating properly. This cable will come into play later in this description. Now that you have lifted the cover over your shifter to check the cable, go ahead and unplug the wiring attached (should be a light and traction control) and sit this out of your way. You will need the room. Next remove thefascia that holds your climate control functions and surrounds your stereo/CD player. There are several things plugged into the back here, so take care not to damage anything as you unplug this for removal. I would recommend a small flat blade screwdriver and a pile of patience at this point. After you have removed this rather large piece of the dash, you have access to the bolts holding the stereo head unit in place. Two on the left and one on the right. Pull it out and unplug the harness and the antenna male plug from the back of the unit. You should be able to see the right side of your ignition switch at this point, but don't get your hopes up just yet. One of the bolts holding that beauty in is just under the gauge cluster so that is your next step. Remove the two small bolts under the hood of the gauge cluster. They are around the ten and two positions of the steering wheel. After these are out, take the small screwdriver and gently pop the lower corners of the surrounding fascia out for removal. If you haven't already, now is the time to bring the steering wheel into the lowest tilt position. There is one wire connection on the left side of the ring that has to be disconnected. This is for your trip button. Now you should have access to the four bolts that hold your gauge cluster in place. Remove these and roll the gauge cluster face down. Unplug the connection on the back. Don't worry, all of the information you see on the dash comes from the PCM so this is simply a display. Like a monitor of sorts. Slide the cluster out and put it in a safe place. Now you can finally get to the three small bolts that hold your starter ignition switch in its perch. Two on the left, one on the right. Pull the switch up and through the opening left by the removal of the gauges and disconnect the two wiring harnesses from the rear. Again, take care not to damage these connections as they are reused. The small three wire plug that connects to the side of the switch is an "L" shaped plug and the wires go in at the base of the "L". This plug should be removed in a rocking type of motion. Take your time not to destroy this little feller. Now then, all that is left is the cable that runs to the shifting linkage. If your ignition is locked in the off position, you have to separate the top and bottom halves of the ignition to free the cable. If the key will turn, just turn it over a bit and it will free it up. This is just a safety bar that slides up to keep you from starting your car in gear. Push in the tab on the side of the cable and slide it out of the ignition housing and it should be free. Replacement is simply this tedious process reversed. Good luck!

under the starter

Yes, it is called the OBD2 code list.

It is the rev limiter which protects your engine from over reving. While driving you can rev as much as you want. I never red line though and dont recommend it. You can remove it with a power programmer which can cost $$$$.

remove your door panel there will be three screws holding it on. then you have to remove the screws holding your window to the regulator. then unbolt regulator and motor from door. Undo wiring going to motor.

12.3 quarts

5 1/4"

not positive but on my 2000 it is the top 50 amp fuse in the small fusebox under the hood on the passenger side.