Pontiac Firebird

yes in 93 you could get the LT-1 in the formula firebird.

1-2-3-4-5-6 For a 3.1
1-6-5-4-3-2 For a 3.8

Most wrecking yards can tell you. They have a book that matches up parts. The actual fender didn't change until '76 I think. I had a '77 and a '79 and they were the same. Only difference was the front end cone and the taillights. (which were interchangeable)

Factory recommended .035 with the weak point ignitions of the time. If you have upgraded to an electronic ignition, you may find a small gain in drivability, mileage, and performance by opening up the plug gaps to .045-.060. Any difference will be very slight unless you were experencing alot of fouling and/or misfires with points. If you still have points, go with the factory setting.

Fuel pressure can range from 39 PSI to 52 PSI in a properly operating system.

Front seating area, driver side, under dash, driver side of foot pan, mounted on foot rest bracket under carpet

There is a freeze plug located on the "passenger side" of the engine. It can be seen by jacking up the car and looking above the coolant sensor. If it is bad, antifreeze may be puddling toward the center of the car where the engine and transmission meet.

702 formula 455's were built. No breakout from PHS as to how many were equipped with the optional functional ram air hood. I have a late '74 one (built 8/14/74), red/red, ram air, full gauges, formula wheel, posi, pw, ac, & added Honeycombs & a factory am/fm stereo.

15 gallons

There is a crankshaft position sensor. It is located Under the hood, center, lower engine area, front side of engine, passenger side of crankshaft pulley, mounted in engine block

The horsepower rating of the 1989 TPI 305 engine in the F body cars was 195 - 205HP

The horsepower rating of the 1989 TPI 305 engine in the F body cars was 195 - 205HP

I have the exact same problem as u in my 87 firebird i dont know what to do

The PVC valve on a 1998 firebird is on the passenger side. It is on the valve cover about halfway between front and back.

It reads the card to see if the card is valid or not if tje crad is n ot valid it rejects the crad but if the crad is accepted the ouput 1 turns on and starts the system of withdrawing the money. This is a very basic answer. :(

I am not positive but go to autozone.com and locate part compartment on your vehicle

Lift the car, remove the tire, remove the brake shoe/caliper and remove the old brake pad. Put in the new brake pad, replace the brake shoe/caliper, replace the tire, and lower the car.

The low traction and ABS systems work together. The most likely cause, is 1 of 2 things. 1: Broken wiring on any of the 4 wheel sensors. They operate using a magnetic pickup coil and toothed rotor, that for the front wheels is part of the hub assy. It happens due to age or vibration, and in winter ice can build up, as well as if you run over objects that will pull the wiring. 2: Wiring shorting out, for the same reasons in cause 1 stress, or even if the pickup coil should break or rub against the frame or wheel hub. Using an ohm meter is the best way to check them. The vehicle will need to be placed on a lift, and all of the wheels removed, or if your a DIY then one at a time each jacked, and placed on jack stands and wheels removed to gain access to the backside of the hubs. Bend the tab and disconnect the plug to gain access. Measure across the pins going into the hub, should produce a resistance, typically around 20 ohms but the key is that it measures the same on each sensor. Then measure it also between either wire to ground (hub itself) should be infinite. Beyond that will require the module (TCS) located near the master cylinder unit of the brakes, be either serviced or replaced. GM states to re-train it that you disconnect your battery for a period of time, usually overnight. If you perform that, you will find the low traction goes thru a learning period. During that period, I advise to drive into sand or snow, watch the dash while doing a very short acceleration enough to cause mild wheel slippage, in which the front brakes will apply themselves, causing low traction light to come on. Once it learns that the wheels are not out of control, it will stay off. During the training period it will light up, mainly at takeoff from a full stop. Once it figures out things, it should not come on during normal driving.

If you step on the brake and it will still not come out of park. Your brake interlock is probably bad. It is under the console and you can get it at advance auto for around 20 bucks.

there should be an air canister, with a tube leading into the throttle body. u can remove this tube and unscrew the bolt to get the old air filter out.

I'm assuming your car is not starting, and you think it is because the fuel pump is bad. The easiest way to check if you don't have a fuel pressure gauge it to just spray a little 2+2 or starting fluid in the throttle body and see if it starts up. It will only run for a second or too, but if it does start, then it means you are not getting any fuel and it is most likely the fuel pump.

The Fuel Filter is mounted directly in front of your Firebird's rear axle. The filter is on the fuel pipe line before the fuel injection system.

make sure you changed your fuel filter

Dwell is 28-32 degrees and the plug gap is .035

it smokes 80 percent of the cars out there

3.4L runs 13 seconds 1/4 mile

3.8L runs 10 Seconds 1/4 mile

and a 5.7L runs 8 seconds 1/4 mile

my 1999 ran a 15 sec 1/4 mile and i didnt stage up so... i dont know what it would run if i staged. i have hit 120 mph though.

It sounds like you have a short in your electrical system. Use a test light and check for power at the fan connector when you attach the battery cable. if the fan was running before, you should have power. Disconnect or remove the relays and fuses one at a time until the power goes out. The fues or relay you remove that kills the power is the one with the problem. Start checking the connections for a wire burned and melted into another. It must be getting power from a battery wire somewhere. Be sure to check for melted connections at the fuse or relay connectors. If you can't get it to power down at all, start running the wiring from the fan motor until you find the problem. You will probably have to separate the harness to do this. There are also two temp sensors on the car. One is for the gauge and one is for the fan. Make sure you replaced the right one. The fan will also run when the ac is on as well as the defrost. make sure they are turned off.