It doesn't crank? Or it cranks, but doesn't fire? Start with the three most common reasons for a no start. 1) Crank- make sure the engine is turning over fast enough to start. 2) Spark- If the engine is cranking, make sure it is getting spark to the plugs. 3) Fuel- If the car has crank and spark, check that it is getting fuel. If you have crank, fuel, and spark and the car will still not start, you may have a computer problem. Your dealer/mechanic will be able to diagnose a computer problem. Good Luck!! If it just sounds like "wrrrrrrr" and not "red red red red red" then it's your starter. Those are easy to replace, but you will need some tools. It took me 4 hours to get the starter off, and about 1 hour to put it back on. Things the haynes manual wont tell you are 1. There is a black bracer bar directly under the starter, it connects in 3 places. You have to remove that bar before you can remove the starter. After you remove that, you have to remove the flywheel gasket bolts before you can remove the starter's bolts. The starter on a 98 has 3 bolts. There is something called a 'bender' bar that connects it to the engine I believe, that bolt is really hard to get to. You will need a swivel joint for your ratchet and a 12in extension. It helps to have a friend look through the top of the engine to help you guide the ratchet. It is also handy to have a ratchet that has a 'continuous drive handle' means you can turn the handle like a screwdriver and it will work as though you are doing a turning motion on a regular ratchet. A starter for the 98 will run you about $180 to $220 from PepBoys. If it doesnt make the "wrrrrr' sound then check your spark plugs.

Bottom right of the radio is an up and down arrow. With the key on and the radio off, hold down one of the arrows till you hear a beep. Then use the arrow buttons to adjust

Well, let's see. Has anything unusual happened since it last ran? Any repairs that might have gone awry?

There are a few things necessary for a car to run. Fuel, Fire and Compression. All are fairly easy to check for. I suggest you pick up a Haynes or Chilton manual for the car. It's troubleshooting guide might help you.

Fire, or spark, is real easy to check. Pull a plug wire off one of the plugs and place it so that it will arc to something metal on the frame or the engine block. Have someone turn the car over and watch for the spark arcing. You might have to move the plug wire around a little using an insulated tool to get it in just the right position to see the spark. If you DO see spark, good. This means that the electrical system, as least as far as ignition is concerned. is OK.

Compression is easy too, but requires a compression gauge. You just stick one end in a spark plug hole and crank the engine. Look at the gauge and write down the numbers for all 4 cylinders. If one or more are very low, you have a problem. Possibly a blown head gasket or a cracked head.

Fuel is a little more difficult in an injected engine. I really can't tell you how to check for the presence of fuel, but the Haynes manual can. I don't have mine at hand or I'd check it for you.

Having said all that, you could have a computer problem. This requires a trip (or a tow) to a diagnostic center to have their computer check your computer.

try replacing your battery

your sunfire is revving if the idle is set to high, or when adjusted. the idle is high also when the engine needs to warm up in cold weather. there is also the possibility that the engine temp sensor needs to be replaced, for it is not relaying proper heat temp. the light on your dash may show you engine temp, check this. if unable to do this yourself, you may need your cars manual.

it is 195 it is 195

My 2002 is a 2.2L and the Water Pump is on the (standing in front of the car looking aft-towards the back) left hand side. Locate the Serpinetine Belt and it's right underneath and just aft of the alternator pulley.

no as all the particle are so far apart they go every where

This could be caused by a lot of things. If it was my car, I'd start by replacing the fuel filter, checking and, if necessary, replacing the plugs and checking/replacing the plug wires. I'd also run a bottle of injector cleaner through the system in case the injectors have gotten dirty or clogged. (I do that every few months just a matter of course) If these things don't solve your problem, I'd suggest taking it in to a diagnostic center as it could be a sensor or a computer problem. Let us know what you find! FriPilot

The plugs on 2.3L and 2.4L OHC engines the gap should be at 0.050 in.

The upstream 02 sensor is usually located shortly after the exhaust manifold, before the converter. That is the one that controls how the car runs. The downstream sensor, after the converter tells the computer if the converter is doing it's job or not. It does not affect performance, but you might have to live with a check engine light being on. There are probably 2 of each on a V6.

If a check engine light is flashing that means an engine cylinder misfire has

been detected

Its attached to the throttle body and should have about 4-5 wires going into it, it also should be near the end of the throttle cable

I had this problem with my 97'. You should check the oil make sure it hasn't turned to what looks like chocolate milk yet, if it has you might as well start looking for a new car. Replace the thermostat they are not expensive. If these things fail it could also be your head gasket or the head. If it is the head you are looking at $2,000 for repair. but if it is just the head, you might have a chance like I did. Luckily mine was a pinched line. Also check your lines. But a over heating problem is also hard to find.

what is luke warm

Its a traction control switch...when your slipping usually your tires spin when traction control is on it lets the other tire spin just as fast so you dont slide as much and get more grip. Use this when the roads are hazardous, snow rain etc.

It should be the 2.4 in that case they would be under the quad 4 covor on the top of the motor that holds the module and coil pack in it. Just pull the bolts out of that silver covor and pop it off and they will be right there where you can see them but you will need a 6" extention with the socket to pull the old plugs out and don't pull them out while the engine is hot.

This is going to depend on what degree of quality you demand in a muffler, and how much of the system needs to be replaced. If you need new pipe from the header on back, and you need to replace hangers, it's going to be real expensive.

I'd take the car in to a muffler shop for an estimate and go from there.

FriPilot

Caution:On models with a Delco Loc 2 or Theftlock audio system be sure the lockout feature is turned off before proceeding * Disable the airbag system * Remove the tilt lever if equipped * Remove the upper and lower steering column covers Ignition Switch * Remove the ignition switch retaining screws * Detach the ignition switch from the steering column housing assembly and unplug the electrical connectors Key Lock Cylinder * Turn the key to the run postion * Depress the lock button and remove the key lock cylinder

Replace it!!

most sunfires do not have a dipstick for transmission fluid. (called Transaxle fluid as well)

You are supposedly not supposed to fill it unless getting your fluid changed or getting a repair. I must say with my 2001 sunfire I have never added fluid and never had a problem. There is a little red knob that you turn to fill the fluid and you can buy and add a dipstick (usually only from a dealer). That knob is found by looking straight down in front of the brake cylinder on top of the transmission. It is pretty hard to snake your hand down to but you can do it.

Hope that helps.

You have to remove the tail light lens cover from inside the trunk- there are about 6 nuts holding it on --the whole cover comes off and bingo there are your lites for the Pontiac emblem that lights up!! There are no lights persay just for the Licence plates on my 96 Sunfire and I assume the same on a 98