most sunfires do not have a dipstick for transmission fluid. (called Transaxle fluid as well)

You are supposedly not supposed to fill it unless getting your fluid changed or getting a repair. I must say with my 2001 sunfire I have never added fluid and never had a problem. There is a little red knob that you turn to fill the fluid and you can buy and add a dipstick (usually only from a dealer). That knob is found by looking straight down in front of the brake cylinder on top of the transmission. It is pretty hard to snake your hand down to but you can do it.

Hope that helps.

You have to remove the tail light lens cover from inside the trunk- there are about 6 nuts holding it on --the whole cover comes off and bingo there are your lites for the Pontiac emblem that lights up!! There are no lights persay just for the Licence plates on my 96 Sunfire and I assume the same on a 98

Inside or outside?

Outside is pretty direct. A damp cloth usually does

the trick.

If the inside is dirty, I'd buy a CD lens cleaner and use

it. That will solve any crud on the lens problems.

If the inner workings have become dirty due to

blowing dust or something, You may have to yank

it out and have an auto audio shop clean it up for you.

FriPilot

You can't. I have a 1996 Sunfire someone tried 2 steal last week. Towed it 2 deaqlership & they said it was not possible 2 wire around it. Sorry.

62.1 miles.

Replace the bulb. The low beams and high beams use separate parts inside the bulb.

If replacing the bulb does not fix the problem, check the fuses.

I'd check the transmission fluid level first and then for a slipping band inside the transmission.

I couldn't find anything specific in my Haynes manual, but from what I've seen by snooping around Google and by looking at my own tach, it seems that 800RPM is in the ballpark. FriPilot

The answer is way too long to give here. Purchase a Hayne's or Chilton's repair manual at any auto parts store. $15

whaT KIND OF COOLANT DO I PUT IN MY 2001 PONTIAC SUNFIRE

Generally, the GM model vehicles, or is this case, the sunfire, use a specific kind of coolant called DEX-cool extended life engine coolant. It is orange-ish in color and most of the time GM specific. i have a 01 sunfire, 2.2 liter myself, and on my car frame, i have a sticker that says "Use only DEX-cool engine coolant....". Hope this helps!

If the engine has gotten really hot, not long at all.

If you're having overheating problems, you may have a warped head

and/or a leaking head gasket.

Well, if you're experiencing a lot of bouncing when you go over bumps, it's time for new shocks. Excessive leaning in turns can be an indicator too. The old rule of thumb, is to push down hard on the fender (in your case, the rear fender) and let go after it goes as far down as it's going to. If it bounces up and down more than once or twice, it's time for new shocks. FriPilot

yes

I agree.....

Muffler "repairs" are generally bogus at best. Aluminum tape? Falls apart quickly. Welding? Rarely works.

Your best bet, for the sake of a long term repair and for the safety of you and your family, is to have the muffler replaced. You sure don't want any exhaust fumes leaking into the cabin.

Located at the right side (passenger side) of engine compartment......With a large handle ratchet, place on the center bolt of tension pully (look at schematic for location) turn away from belt (left or right depending on size and type of engine) while someone else grabs the loose belt and takes it off every pully and then follow the belt schematic to put new belt on while holding the tension pully the same way when you take the belt off......... do not spin any pully when doing this to avoid damage depending on engine type.......make sure person holding ratchet is strong enough to hold the ratchet for a good bit (may take a while to get at the belt)...... and do not put fingers close to pully where the belt rests...... may slip and clamp on fingers (this will hurt alot... found out the hard way)......... good luck Andrew, a Canadian auto apprentice!

Let me clarify this post.

Turn the bolt in the middle clock-wise (tightning). As you tighten the bolt, it will give and release tension on that pulley and allow you to remove the belt easily.

After reading the above post, I tried loosing the bolt and had a nightmare replacing the belt, but eventually got it. As I put everything back together, this last bolt I noticed when I tightened it all the way down, it applied pressure to the pulley and released tension. (I know it sounds stupid, but when you do it, you will see how it works).

heater core has a leak replace heater core

The PCM is located in the right corner of the engine compartment under the air cleaner assembly and bolted to the chassis

It may be your CV joints

Does it stay on forever? Or does it eventually go out?

FriPilot

tools u need. 7mm socket-#15 torx and a #2 Phillips.

First drop down glove box and remove 2 screws beside stereo panel. Pull from right side and remove stereo panel. Remove screws from where your glove box closes and one more that was hiding behind stereo panel. At the side of the dash where the fuse panel is you need to remove the Phillips screw from there and also on the passenger side as well. Remove both of those side panels and remove metal strip around glove box area to expose other screws to remove. pull out panel cover on the dash for your front defroster and you will see 3 more screws to remove. once removed pull up on front trim. (closest to the windshield) and remove out of way. Continue to remove all visible screws and the gold coloured bolts by the windshield. When all this is done, grab the dash from both sides and pull out and then up. The cluster is held in place with 2 black screws only do not remove the little silver ones. When the screws are out from the cluster, pull toward you and up. Look at back of cluster and there are your bulbs. Turn and pull out and replace. It takes me about 45min start to finish all back together, first timers maybe longer.

Normally, when you first start the car, you can hear the pump "wind up" for a second or two. This means that it's probably working, but is no guarantee.

But if you think your pump is failing/failed, I'd suggest picking up a Haynes or Chilton manual and having a look at the fuel system checks. That should pretty much determine if the pump is good or bad. If the pump is bad, you have a big job ahead of you. The pump is located inside the fuel tank. Replacing it means dropping the tank after you suck all the fuel out of it.

FriPilot

there is a sensor in the bottom of the coolant bottle, change this and you should be o.k. tap the sensor with a screw driver it will go out uts just stuck