Pontiac Catalina

A horn diagram for a 1966 Pontiac Catalina typically includes the horn switch, relay, and the horn itself, along with the wiring connections between these components. The horn switch is usually located in the steering wheel, and when pressed, it sends a signal to the relay, which then activates the horn. For detailed schematics, you may want to refer to a repair manual specific to the 1966 Pontiac Catalina or consult online forums dedicated to classic car restoration. If you're looking for visual diagrams, automotive websites and parts retailers often provide them as well.

The bolt pattern for a 1970 Pontiac Catalina is 5 bolts with a spacing of 4.75 inches (or 120.7 mm). This standard bolt pattern is commonly used in many GM vehicles of that era. When selecting wheels, it's also important to consider the offset and hub diameter to ensure proper fitment.

On a 1994 Pontiac Bonneville, the tach wire at the coil pack is typically found near the ignition coil's connector. It is usually a gray wire that connects to the negative terminal of the ignition coil. This wire sends a signal to the tachometer to indicate engine RPM. Always consult the vehicle's service manual for precise wiring diagrams and specifications.

The 1967 Pontiac Catalina typically features a bolt pattern of 5x5 inches (also expressed as 5x127 mm). This means there are five bolt holes arranged in a circle with a diameter of 5 inches. This bolt pattern is common among many GM vehicles from that era. Always verify with specific vehicle documentation or a trusted source for confirmation.

The bolt pattern for a 1970 Pontiac Catalina is 5 bolts on a 5-inch diameter circle (5x5). This specification is common among many GM vehicles from that era. When looking for replacement wheels or tires, it's important to ensure they match this bolt pattern for proper fitment.

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What is the bolt pattern on a 1968 Pontiac Catalina

Vintage cars are broadly defined as those cars, which were built between 1919 and 1930. In general terms vintage cars are also known as classic cars and antique cars. But car lovers have their own definitions regarding these three terms. The British definition of vintage cars is quite strict about 1930 being the cut-off, while some American sources prefer 1925 since it is the pre-classic car period as defined by the Classic Car Club of America.

Some others view the Classic period as overlapping the Vintage period, especially since the Vintage designation covers all vehicles produced in the period while the official Classic definition includes only high-end vehicles of the period.

As regards antique car, according to the definition used by the Antique Automobile Club of America and many other organizations worldwide, an antique car is generally defined as a car over 25 years of age. However, the legal definition regarding antique vehicle registration varies widely. So in answer to your question, it depends on who you ask and what they define an antique as. My opinion is that a 1979 vehicle is not an antique but is a classic. I put a classic and an antique in two different categories. This may have to do with my experience. My opinion is that an antique car is any car built before World War 2. That is just my opinion.

PONTIAC usually have the dip stick way low on the passenger side, in between the last two cyl.s on the pass side, as I recall. But it is either there or way low up by the water pump, PONTAIC has some well hidden dip sticks, that is why so many painted them red once they found them (the handle)

Starter relay is broken

I own a '66. The shop manual says that the valve nuts should be set to 20 ft/lbs of torque. I always thought feeler gauges would be needed, but I guess not. I have a lifter tick on #7 that required me to tighten it down further to close the gap. Probably a clogged lifter that isn't pressurizing with oil any more.

You can find authentic GM shop repair manuals on Ebay for about $20 as a CD-ROM. It's an invaluable resource for restoring and maintaining old cars.

Yes it is. It just makes it shorter to write.

5 on 5"

There are a few options. If the trunk and door locks take the same key, take one of the door locks out and take it to a good locksmith. They can cut you a new one. You can also drill out the lock, using a progressively larger bit until the lock bar can be taken out. You can pry, rip and pull the lock out....at the same time probably destroying the trunk lid. The only other option I can tell you, is to remove the back seat. If you're lucky, there will be enough room for you to crawl into the trunk area enough to reach the lock mechanism so that you can remove it and open the trunk.

Alas you have a broken wire between the headlight switch and the fuse panel . pull the headlight out and check the wire connector,possibly add a jumper from another powered up circuit there.

The timing mark on the top gear should be at 06:00, while the timing mark on the bottom gear should be at 12:00. IOW, they "point to each other" Good luck!

5 on 5"

You can identify the paint code and lots of other information by referencing a vehicle info plate on the engine compartment firewall. Open the hood and on the driver's side of the firewall is a plate about the size of a 3X5 notecard. There is a series of numbers that can be referenced against another source to decode the body style, manufacturing date, assembly plant, and body color.