Skoda Octavia

hi how do you change aside light bulb on a skoda octavia

yes!

The Camshaft Position Sensor is used for ignition timing and determining the RPM.

As the signal is needed for proper fuel injection, the fuel injection stops whenever there is no signal. Also the RPM meter drops to zero.


It is possible that the signal drops out for one or two seconds, and then resumes. In this case the engine will stall during the dropout, and (when not in idle) resume operation when the signal resumes. It is very well possible that no error condition is logged by the Engine Control Unit (ECU).

If the signal is completely gone the engine will not run or start. In this case an error code will be logged.

to the right of the camshaft pulley,on plastic surround is a arrow,turn cam till two small protruding edges on cam span arrow. a small arrow located on crankshaft pulley,lines up with arrow on locking tool. you need locking tool to get this right.

bleeding the skoda octavia is as follows start corner to corner ie.passengers side front wheel to drivers side rear wheel and same on the other side you will probably get a crap spongy pedal as there will still be air in the system next you will have to go to the master cylinder looking down on it you will find 2 bleed screws these must be bled to bring the pedal to correct position job done

Turn the key to the locking position on the door lock once to lock the car when locking up. You will hear 4 (or 2 double) clicks. The car has been locked and armed. You should see a red light flashing on the driver's door. Do NOT hold the key in that position. This will cause all the windows to roll up (locking) or roll down (unlocking), so release the key to the neutral position. Turn the key to lock once again and release. You will hear a click, and the red light will stop flashing. The car has been disarmed.

on top of the battery

Hold in reset button on speedo, turn on ign then release button,then turn it to the right and release it then switch off ign. This will only work if service is due now or showing nearly due

Relay prob usually. Think it got a number on it. 109 or 110 I think.

The immobilizer is a security mechanism mounted in the vehicle. So you won't be able to bypass it.

All you can do is have it checked in an authorized service.

can bypass the ecu to start without immobiliser, pls send your ecu , we will reprogramme it and send it to you - scanacar@gmail.com - Chennai - India - +919841436436

Air flow meter goes on these fairly regular. Cheap part and easy to fix. It causes the car to run normally but the turbo won't work hence the loss of power. Check it out.

Remove outer case there is two screws holding the unit in place one behind the mirror and one to the end behind the indicator plug you will need a long thin hex driver i think t 1.5 size there around 35 pounds new

the relay is behind the warning light switch, the triangular one in the middle of the dash. the relay it self is massive! it also control the warning side of the indicators. that why it is in that position

hope it help.

remove the stereo with two radio pullers in the side slits on stereo there is a blue and white wire that gives you a pulse

Takes about 30 minutes with the correct tools, Take off the wheel , Remove the 27mm bolt from the drive shaft, remove the nut from the track rod end , remove the 3 bolts from the ball join , Remove the 18mm nut from the drop link bar,remove the studs from the brake caliper, remove the 10mm nut from the brake hose , unclip the abs sensor plug, remove caliper and tie it up out of the way with the hose and sensor, Loosen the 3 -13mm bolts at the top under the plastic window scuttle but dont remove them completely, Tap the track rod end to free it off , Remove the 18mm bolt from the rear of the shocker, pull down on the wishbone to remove the ball joint studs from it , You will now be able to tap the hub from the shocker , Now remove the 3 bolts from the top of the strutt under the scuttle . you can now remove the shocker & spring . You will need a spring clamp to compress the spring , remove the 24mm nut from the top of the shocker, You may need to use mole grips on the shaft of the shocker to stop the nut from spinning,remove the strutt top hub remove the spring , then re-assemble everything in the reverse order .

If you mean the air filter housing, the one with the oil filler coming through it, it just pulls off. There are no screws, bolts or clips, so just lift firmly at each corner until it comes free of its mounting studs and the air intake, and then detach the one rubber tube connecting it to the engine and put carefully aside. You should probably put a clean cloth in the mouth of the air intake to prevent any debris entering the engine.

This is the case with my 2003 Skoda Fabia 1.4 16v

Jonathan

Follow the positive (+) wire from the battery it goes straight on to the starter motor.

it likes to halp people buying quality cars

The purpose of the brake servo is to provide power assistance to the braking system when then brake pedal is pushed. The brake servo is usually a flat drum-shaped unit to the rear of the brake master cylinder. Typically, on a petrol car, a hard plastic pipe connects the servo to the inlet manifold of the engine. When the engine is running, air is sucked in through the inlet manifold; this partial vacuum is stored in the servo drum, and is used to amplify the pressure exerted by the driver on the brake pedal. A one-way valve is fitted in the system, usually in the plastic pipe, to avoid the vacuum in the servo being lost when the throttle is opened or the engine switched off. With a diesel engine, insufficient vacuum is generated in the inlet manifold to work the servo, so on diesel cars the hard plastic pipe from the servo is connected to a vacuum pump, which is typically mounted on the end of the camshaft, or sometimes on the back of the alternator. The symptoms of brake servo malfunction are usually a brake pedal that feels very stiff and has to be pushed very hard to operate the brakes. One common cause is the plastic pipe split or leaking where it joins the servo or the inlet manifold. The one-way valve can also fail, as can (less commonly I would say) the servo unit itself. On diesel cars, the vacuum pump can fail or can be tired, causing the pedal to stiffen with repeated use of the brakes. Good luck from Norn Irn!

Check first the steering servo fluid level and top up as necessary. The most likely cause is the wheel-side cv joint. Check the gaiter for damage. Either way, it will need replacing.

the relay is behind the warning switch , the triangular one in the middle of the dash, from my understanding you need to pop out the part of the dash that suround the switch but i had my one changed in a service and it was cheap. watch out through the relay is massive as it had both the indication and the emergency electrical controls in it.

Skoda is now part of the VW/Audi group but are not assembled in Germany although many parts are of VW/Audi origin.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C5%A0koda_Auto

Hi, if it's any use, I have a 2002 Octavia, and I am replacing mine as a coin shorted it recently. I have diagrams that show me it is Fuse no. 41 which is 15 amps. In Right-hand drive, this is the bottom left corner fuse, fourth fuse from bottom. In Left-hand drive, it's bottom right, 4th from bottom as it's mirrored.

Dodge did not produce the Durango until 1998. It is located on the bell housing on the right side of the engine where the transmission mounts to the engine