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Power going into the pack and none coming out of it. Also a cracking sound as it shorts out.

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its not easy. there are actually two separate belts in those engines..one for each side.. and they have overhead cam shafts. its best to get a repair manual for that. because its very difficult to explain without diagrams.

Go to www.ultimatesubaru.net Everything you need to know about working on a Loyale is covered there. It will not be that difficult, but will take you several hours the first time you do it.

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Buy the new sensor and it comes with instructions. The tricky part is finding it. On a forester its located on the up pipe manifold. Since that's a boxer engine, the mainfold is low, you have to get under the car. A bosch O2 sensor has a nice detail set of instructions for replacement.

Location varies with model of Subaru, but most are installed just upstream (towards the engine) from the catalytic converter located under the right hand drive shaft. Mike is correct-- you must get under the car to replace. Make sure you follow safety and use a good set of car ramps on level solid ground to raise the car, or use jack stands. Best to work on a cool engine/car. Unplug the wire leading from the O2 sensor, then unscrew the sensor to remove. The old one may be stuck quite well, but it unscrews like a spark plug. When installing the new one, avoid getting dirt, grease (or anti-sieze) on the sensing tip of the new unit, and just screw back in. It will turn easily for a few turns, then turn harder for about 1/2 turn, then it just stops turning. You have compressed the sealing washer correctly. Remove your wrench, plug the new sensor back in, and lower the car. Do not be surprised if the computer is a bit confused for the first 20 minutes of driving-- it will be re-learning the correct new oxygen sensor.

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You will need a medium-small Torx driver for the screws that hold the rear light assembly to the car. Start by opening the trunk. Note the latch that the trunk lid attaches to when it is closed, now look left (or right) until the rear of the car rises above the bumper, you will there find the taillight assembly (you may already be able to locate the taillight assembly without this guidance). Once you have located the taillight assembly, look for the three (or so) torx screws that hold it in place, these will be on the black surface that wraps aroundtoward the trunk interior. Remove these screws and put them somewhere where they will not roll away. Once the mounting screw are out, pull the top of the tailight assembly out (away from the car) and lift the bottom of the assembly up. This should free the plastic hooks that are on the bottom of the assembly from the car. There will be several bulb connectors going into the back of the assembly. Your turn signal should be the middle one on the top (top being the top if the assembly were mounted in place). Squeeze the tab of the bulb connector and rotate counterclockwise. This will free the bulb connector from the assembly without the need to remove any wires. Pull the connector out of the hole it is in. You will now see the bulb. To remove the bulb, grasp it and push in while turning counterclockwise. It will turn about 1/5 - 1/4 of a turn before stopping. (It is important to use just enough force to turn the bulb... don't overdo it, the last thing you need is a bulb to break in your fingers and for half of it to be stuck in the connector). When the bulb stops turning you should be able to pull it straight out. At this point note the posts on the side of the metal part of the bulb. One is lower than the other. Note which side of the connector it came out of because when you install the new bulb, it will need to go in the same way. There will be a sort of yellowish grease inside the connector and on the old bulb, don't worry about it, it's supposed to be there. Take the bulb to your local parts store and they will find you a replacement, or you could have already gone to a parts store and told them your year, make, and model, and they will be able to tell you the appropriate bulb. Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure to pay attention to: 1. the posts on the side of the metal part of the bulb, 2. look at the other bulb connectors on the back of the taillight assembly and insert the bulb connector you are working with rotated a bit counterclockwise from the rest. When it goes right in, then turn it clockwise, 3. when you re-install the taillight assembly insert the plastic tabs on the bottom of the assembly into their appropriate holes before pushing the top into place.

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At the lower end of the top radiator hose within the water outlet. I hope this helps you. Mark

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update: i put the clutch in and put it into gear n let the clutch out and it feels like i wont disengage all the way shifting is fine, i have played with the adjustment and still nothing, jus more or less freeplay in the pedal. i took off the cables so there would be no pedal and same thing i put the brake on and put it in gear and the car does not stall just a low idle i let off the brake and it goes just when i hit the gas there is really no response it just feels like the clutch is not disengaging

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Depends if you have an automatic or a manual transmission. For manual: it could be a misadjusted or broken clutch cable, preventing the clutch from disengaging. For automatic: under the car, look for a missing or broken vacuum hose. It's supposed to connect to the transmission about 2/3 the way back on the right side. This hose may have fallen off, have a hole in it, or be disconnected from the vacuum source in the engine. Another cause on automatics is sticking valves in the transmission itself. These can be cleaned and resharpened without removing the transmission.

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If you're having problems with your cruise control, I would suggest that you check into your Subaru's transmission and engine error codes to see what it's returning if anything. Many times the problem with the cruise can be diagnosed by the vehicle itself. The car will not allow the cruise control to function if it knows about a specific problem, which will be given in the error codes. I don't know what year subaru you have, but look into getting both the engine (check engine light) error codes and the transmission (power light) error codes on your Legacy to see what they're returning. My speed sensor was out on my Subaru. Once I found the problem in the error codes, I swapped it out and my cruise worked just great.

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According to the company, "Subaru refers to a star cluster in the Taurus constellation. The name is echoed in the famous Six-Star badge." The word "Subaru" in Japanese means "govern" or "gather together", and also refers to the group of stars known as "The Seven Sisters" or "The Pleiades". One of the stars, Myrop, is rarely visible to the naked eye, which may explains the six stars on the Subaru badge rather than seven, but also that 5 smaller manufacturers joined together to form one larger manufacturer fits this association. In Greek mythology, The Seven Sisters were Electra, Maia, Taygete, Asterope, Celaene, Alcyone and Myrop (spelling varies). According to legend, Myrop married a mortal and so her light began to fade - other stories have suggested that she is the youngest of the seven sisters and simply not old enough to stay up late...

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Mini truck talk forum is full of part resellers and importers. Take a look there.

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got a sti jap import the abs light is on what do i look for to sort it

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The standard Dexron III most vehicles use.

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Usually in a removable housing at the engine end of the upper radiator hose

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I'm not sure what you *need* to know? ALL the 1998 Subaru cars/wagons share the same mechanicals, the only differences of note are 2wd, 4wd, standard, and auto. In a used one the auto transmission is not "choice", being more problem prone than the manual. The 2wd cars give better mileage than the 4wd cars, but the 4wd cars are less prone to rusting because they sit higher. Horsepower is not high, around 80hp, these are not race cars, and will not pull a trailer. The "trick" to these cars is service, they are built a bit differently than conventional cars, if someone has been "in there" that hasn't got a clue about Subarus, the potential for major disasters is reasonably high due to butchery. Many of these cars will go 300,000 miles (if not butchered) and 500,000 miles is not uncommon if properly looked after. You WILL end up back at the dealer for some parts, as there is not a lot of after-market, this can be expensive, but not expensive if 500,000 is your goal. In buying a used one: 1) avoid the auto, 2) check the service book, 3)make sure rust has not taken hold. Walk away from anything that doesn't meet these requirments.

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Noy yet.

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Subaru is the automotive division of Fuji Heavy Industries Ltd. (FHI). FHI is based in Tokyo, Japan.

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Answer is too involved to answer here. Buy a repair manual for you car. Around $12 at most auto parts stores. Buy the manual. Then go to www.ultimatesubaru.net before starting. It's all covered there, along with just about any other repair to a Loyale.

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Depends on the materials used to construct the radiator and where the leak is. Make sure the radiator itself is actually leaking and that it is not a loose or leaking hose clamp.

Remove the radiator and take it to a radiator shop. They will tell you if it is repairable or not. Stop Leak and similar products are at best a temporary fix. With the age of this car you may end up being better off purchasing a new radiator. Replace the thermostat at the same time and flush the entire system. Install a 50/50 mix of the proper coolant. Also check all hoses for bulges and soft spots, and replace as necessary.

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its 1-3-2-4- for all the four cyl. subarus.

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Apparently you need to use compressor oil, such as Fridge compressors (Commercial) im told Apparently you need to use compressor oil, such as Fridge compressors (Commercial) im told Apparently you need to use compressor oil, such as Fridge compressors (Commercial) im told

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any brand of dextron for an automatic 75w-90 for rear diff. and front diff as well as manual tranny.

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Anyway, it is located in the lowerr radiator house, at the engine, when the engine is cold drain the coolant, remove the lower hose, pop out the thermostat, remove gasket, clean surface and replace. Fill with coolant, let it get warm, then add more coolant when the new thermotat opens up.