Suzuki

A Suzuki Grand Vitara takes five quarts of oil. All vehicles takes five quarts of oil.

Suzuki Raider R150 is not fuel injected yet. It's still a Carburetor type motorcycle.

timig chain marks

I have a 2000 king quad 300 and you add the oil in rear axle theres a screw out plug

Under the quad, at least on the 2003 and 2005 suzuki ozark 250 quad runners, it is under the quad, there is a 17mm bolt that is the only bolt accessible under the quad, take that out and it drains it.

I have been charged for 3.1 to 3.3 litres during the regular service.

I >think< the Jimny is the same as the Suzuki model sold in the United States as a "Samurai". If so...

There are 4 bolts, one in each corner of the plastic bezel over the instruments. IIRC they are hexheads. Loosen/remove all 4, and the instrument panel can be pulled toward the steering wheel and then lifted up and out.

I remember reading somewhere that the 'right' way to do this requires removing the steering wheel first, as there isn't clearance to get it out. I have owned 4 Samurais and swapped instrument panels many times WITHOUT removing the steering wheel. I found there was just enough 'flex' in the wheel to pull back on the top of the wheel and I could get the old panel out and the new one in.

As you remove the panel you will have to disconnect a couple of wiring connectors and the speedometer cable...no big deal.

Finally...why was I swapping panels? Because one version of the Samurai came with a big fuel gauge in the right hand circle...another upgraded one came with a tachometer in that space (and a smaller fuel gauge elsewhere.) All the wiring harness was setup for either cluster, so replacing the non-tachometer version with a tachometer version was a simple 'plug n play'.

Hope that helps!

You replace a Susuki Swift 2009 power fuse by gently removing the old fuse and replacing with a new one. Two fuse boxes are located on the 09 Susuki Swift, one in the engine compartment and one in the footwell above the accelerator pedal.

To remove the radio in a Suzuki SX4, start by disconnecting the negative battery terminal to ensure safety. Use a flathead screwdriver to carefully pry off the trim panel surrounding the radio, then remove any screws securing the radio in place. Once the screws are out, gently pull the radio out of the dashboard, disconnect the wiring harness and antenna, and the radio will be free. Reassemble in reverse order when installing a new unit.

The size is probably an half inch bolt to 3/4 bolt.

To bleed the air out of the fuel system on a 2000 Suzuki GSX-R 750, first ensure the fuel tank is filled and the fuel petcock is in the "On" position. Then, turn the ignition key to the "On" position without starting the engine; this will activate the fuel pump and pressurize the fuel system, pushing out any trapped air. You may need to repeat this process a few times, turning the key off and on, until you see a steady stream of fuel without bubbles at the fuel line or injectors. Finally, check for leaks before starting the engine.

Disabling the 2013 SX4 DRL (daytime running light), just pull your E-brake (emergency brake) to the first click only. This will not disable the car from being drivable it usually takes at least four (4) to seven (7) clicks to have the parking brake engaged to completely stop the vehicle.

will they make any more suzuki cars

Typically the brake booster vacuum hose is much larger than other vacuum lines...like 1/2 " diameter or bigger. In my Suzuki Samurais it was the only large vacuum line, so it was simple to tell where to hook it up by looking at the intake manifold for the same size fitting. Vacuum exists between the carb and the intake valves, so the base of the carb and or the intake manifold is the sole place for it.

Other cars, especially cars from the 70s when lots of smog stuff was added, there may be other large diameter vacuum hoses...some even had pumps to increase vacuum, or other pumps to force extra air into the exhaust flow. On these it may be harder to determine the right place due to other similarly sized hoses.

1992

The petcocks are vacuum operated petcocks. This means that they have a little diaphragm and valve set-up in them which responds to engine vacuum and allows fuel to flow only when the engine is running and supplying vacuum. This is is how things work when the petcock lever is set to the "on" or "run" setting. So we see that the "on" setting is actually the "off" setting when the engine is not running. So if the engine quits for any reason (as in a "down" situation), the petcock(s) will automatically close and prevent the fuel from flowing out.

These petcocks also have two other lever settings:

The "prime" setting bypasses the vacuum function and allows fuel to flow at all times, even when the engine is stopped. The purpose of this setting is to allow the carb float bowls to be filled when the engine is not running. Note that if you run your petcock(s) on the prime setting all the time, you lose the safety feature provided by the vacuum petcock. Note also that on this setting, fuel is prevented from flowing out through the carbs, into cylinders, etc.) only by the float valves in the carbs, which close when the carbs are full. Should one of these float valves stick open or leak, you then get flooding through that carb.

The "reserve" setting is used to access an additional amount of fuel when you start to run out. Here is how this works. These petcocks have inlet towers which stick up into the tank. In the "on" position, fuel flows down to the petcock through an opening high on the tower. So when you "run out of fuel" you actually have some more fuel sitting in the bottom of the tank which lies below this high inlet. When you turn the petcock lever to "reserve", a lower inlet near the bottom of the tower opens, so you can gain access to this last bit of fuel in your tank.

Press the up or down arrow (bottom right corner) for 2 seconds. Then use arrows to set minutes/hours.

**MobileG4

125 mpg

under the left rear fender next to the shock toward front of the bike

Because it's broken.

14 - 35

You probably can, but it may be more work than you were thinking. While I never made this swap, at one time I owned 2 1986, a 1987, and a 1988 Samurai, and considered swapping in a Geo Tracker engine. The basic engines between the carb 1300 and the fuel 1.6 are very similar...the stroke is longer, so the 1.6 is slightly taller. Also the newer engine needs a high pressure fuel delivery system while the 1.3 used a mechanical low pressure fuel pump driven by a rod off the camshaft, attached to the passenger side of the engine head near the firewall. In addition the 1.3 engines were usually 2 valves per cylinder, while the 1.6 I looked at had more...I think 3 valves per cylinder (1 intake, 2 exhaust) but it's been quite a few years, I may be wrong, maybe the fuel injection engine had 4 valves per cylinder.

What this means is your hood might not shut, the engine might be too tall. I was not worried about that because I had fabricated a 3" body lift out of square steel tubing, which effectively had the side benefit of 3" extra height in the engine compartment. Due to the different number of valves per cylinder you will need to use the exhaust manifold from the fuel injected engine. Due to the fuel injector in the place of the carb, you will also need the intake manifold from the newer engine. If the newer engine has only 1 intake valve per cylinder you conceivably keep the carb and old intake manifold...but I would advise against that because one main flaw in my experience was the carb...I would want to get the fuel injection for many reasons...one of which if you mixed parts from the old and new engines you could get in "passing smog hell", if you are in a state like CA, where I am located. I don't know the exact answer to handle the fuel delivery needs. Perhaps scavenging the whole tank and lines, etc from the donor vehicle. Or maybe you could buy a high pressure electric fuel pump. But if you do that you will need to get creative with wiring to it so it will auomatically stop if the engine is not running, or are in great danger of a catastrophic fire in a collision. And you probably also need to take the computer that controls the engine from the donor vehicle.

In conclusion, if you have access to the entire newer vehicle to get all sorts of parts and are willing to alter the hood or put on a body lift, I think I would have been able to do it. (You could cut out a hole in the hood and add on an after market hood scoop for the added clearance, I think.) But it would be a lot more work than just hoisting out one engine and dropping in the other.

Good luck in whichever you decide to do. If you DO opt to try the swap please write me and let me know how it goes, as even though it has been 8 years since I sold my Samurai's, I still get lots of questions on modifying them.

Paul Hoffman

prhkgh@comcast.net

Probably.In general, you will want to shy away from any jeerlwy or hair style that comprises infection control, such as newly pierced areas, a beard, long fingernails.Piercings and tattoos are frowned upon by the older generations of nurses and patients. These will be the people you will be working with at school, clinicals, and when you are finally a nurse. You may find that you are not taken seriously because of your appearance. Nursing students and new nurses have a hard enough time getting accepted while learning a million new things, all while trying to keep your patient alive. You may find that a pierced tongue is not worth the battle.

The bearings are inner and outer and are removed that way. The knuckle has a center ridge built in to keep the bearings from moving or touching the other after installation so the inner is removed toward the inside and the outer is removed toward the outside. In between the two bearings is a hub spacer which will be reused with the new bearings. Push the hub spacer to one side to see the inner part of each bearing and tap out of the knuckle with a drift or metal chisel being careful to only tap on the bearing you are removing. They will come out of the knuckle very easy with a few taps. To ease the reinstall of the new bearings place them in a freezer for a hour.

With standard tires, and as a 5'11'', 185 lb rider, I was able to go 47 mph on a dry, smooth dirt road. The quad is a lt 160 has all stock carb and exhaust, and is a 1989. Standard 11x39 front to back sprockets.