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you have a common problem and will need another persons foot to push the pedal while you turn the bleeder. step 1 check the fluid and top off to the line. step 2 step on the pedal and hold it down. step 3 turn the bleeder and let the fluid come out and you should be getting some air. tighten then remove foot and repeat from 2. one person tell the other person when your done. if done three or four times check the fluid to make sure your not adding more air in which case you will have to repeat 2 alot more
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you must replace the entire assembly, clutch master cylinder, hydralic line, and slave cylinder. the clutch system was designed to be replaced as a unit, they came from …the factory pre-filled and pre-bleed . the unit can be replaced by first removing the retainer clip from the clutch pedal. use a small flat head screw drive to lift the retaining tab, and then slide the clip off. from under the hood... grab the clutch master cylinder and twist, the unit is held in by 2 tabs, so basically, twist and pull. there are 2 13mm nuts on the transmission at the slave cylinder, remove them. same action on the slave, twist and pull. the entire assembly should come out. its pretty easy accually, book time only calls for .5 hours to remove and replace. you can get a new assembly at the dealer, or a used assembly from a salvage yard
Answer there is a bleeder valve on the right side of the tranny that is where you can bleed your system
The starter on the 2002 Saturn vue is located on the front underside of the engine, follow the positive(red) cable from the battery and it should connect to the solenoid which… is part of the starter.
Answer Fill resevoir Open bleeder screw to let fluid run out depress clutch pedal to floor Close bleeder screw
Answer Need to know how to assemble 95 Chevy clutch master cylinder?
Have someone sit in the truck and pump the pedal 4-5 times slowly ( pushing the pedal all the way down and up each time ) and on the last pump have your buddy hold the pedal t…o the floor then you open the valve on the slave and let the fluid out ( dont let them release the pedal until you close the valve or you will suck air back in) do this this a few times until the pedal feels good. If you are alone and dont have someone to help you, you can just open the valve and let it GRAVITY BLEED. As we all know fluid is heavier than air so after awhile the fluid will push out the air in the system. Keep checking the reservoir as you dont want to run it dry.
Bleed the slave, not the master. Bench bleed the master, that's what those hoses are for with the instructions in the box your part came in. The same box need to retu…rn the core.
You can do it a few ways. One is called BENCH BLEEDING in which you would put the master cylinder in a vise and run a bleeding kit into the reservoir and pump the piston with …a screw driver until there are no more bubbles ( you will still have to follow the next step as well but this makes it go faster) THIS IS ONLY IF YOU ARE INSTALLING A NEW MASTER CYLINDER. The second way is the normally process in which you have someone sit in the car and pump the pedal 4-5 times ( pushing the pedal all the way down and up each time ) and on the last pump have your buddy hold the pedal to the floor then you open the valve on the slave cylinder and let the fluid out ( dont let them release the pedal until you close the valve or you will suck air back in) do this this a few times until the pedal feels good. If you are alone and dont have someone to help you, you can just open the valve on the slave cylinder and let it GRAVITY BLEED. As we all know fluid is heavier than air so after awhile the fluid will push out the air in the system. Keep checking the reservoir as you dont want to run it dry. This is also the same as when working on the brake system. ANSWER INSTALL THEM YOU DONT WANT TO PUSH THE PUMP FORWARD BACK FORWARD BACK WITH FLLUID ON THEY HAVE TO BE VIRGIN WITH NOTHING AND THEN BLEED GRAVITY OR VACUUM BLEED IT THE RESON FOR THAT IS BOTH WAYS YOUR NOT BEATING UP THE PUMPS,THEY WILL WORK AMAZING IF PREVENT FROM BEATING YOUR PUMPS.GRAVITY IS OK ,VACUUM BLEED IS A DEALER JOB WELL DONE,YOUR MAIN KEY IS YOU HAVE NO LEAKS BY MAKING SURE THEM FLUID PIPES ARE INSTALLED PROPERLY YOU HAVE TO TIGHTEN THEM OR CLIP VERY PROPERLY IT IS VERY IMPORTANT YOU GET THEM RIGHT WITH NO LEAKS,THATS IT YOU JUST SAVE YOURSELF SOME BIG LABOR MONEY BUY YOURSELF AN IPOD OR SOMETHING,AND 1 MORE THING JUST TRY TO DO 1 GOOD BLEED,HOPE THIS HELPS
It is under the battery tray on the bellhousing for the tranny.
yes u have 2 bleed new clutch master cylinded, u will do this at the slave cylinder , do it like u would bleeding brakes. usually 5 or six times is enough. if it takes u… alot of bleeding u have a air leak.
This is goo video that demonstrates gravity bleeding very well it is very stait forward and easy, just imagine the bell housing around the clutch to get a feel of were the ble…eder screw is. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HgNTDGwcjZc
I have attached the Technical Service Bulletin on bleeding. Bulletin No.: 01-07-31-002B Date: November 01, 2006 INFORMATION Subject: Improved Bleeding Procedure for …Hydraulic Clutch Release System Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC 6-7F T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models 2007 and Prior Isuzu F-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-31-002A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers of an improved procedure to aid in the ease of bleeding the clutch hydraulic system for the above listed vehicles. This procedure can be used anytime air is introduced into the hydraulic system. Following this procedure may also reduce the number of unnecessary parts replaced for low clutch pedal reserve and high shift effort. Verify that all the lines and fittings are dry and secure. Clean the dirt and grease from the reservoir cap in order to ensure that no foreign substances enter the system. Remove the reservoir cap. Fill the reservoir to the proper level with the required fluid. Attach the J 43485 (Adapter) to the J 35555 (Mity Vac), or equivalent. Brake fluid will deteriorate the rubber on J 43485. Use a clean shop cloth to wipe away the fluid after each use. Place and hold the adapter on the reservoir filler neck to ensure a tight fit. In some cases, the adapter will fit into the reservoir opening. Apply a vacuum of 51-68 kPa (15-20 hg) and remove the adapter. Refill the reservoir to the proper level. Repeat Steps 6 and 7. If needed, refill the reservoir and continue to pull a vacuum until no more bubbles can be seen in the reservoir or until the fluid level no longer drops. The vehicle will move if started in gear before the Actuator Cylinder is refilled and operational. Start the vehicle the first time in neutral to help prevent personal injury from vehicle movement and see if the transmission will shift easily into gear. Pump the clutch pedal until firm (to refill actuator cylinder). Add additional fluid if needed. Test drive vehicle to ensure proper operation Clutch Bleed Procedure - Read Before Attempting Any Service DO NOT ATTEMPT TO BLEED THE CLUTCH HYDRAULIC UNIT. According to the manufacturer, the hydraulic system (mater cylinder, actuator, hose) is serviced as a COMPLETE UNIT. It has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. If the system requires any fluid, check the hydraulic components for leakage. Remove the slave cylinder from the clutch housing and check for leakage at the piston, a slightly wet surface is normal. If excessive, replace system. Individual components of the system are not available for service, except the slave cylinder actuator pushrod plastic retainer strap. Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw located on the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder is used for the factory fluid fill only. Use only DOT 3 brake fluid. Do not use mineral oil or a paraffin base oil in the hydraulic system as damage to rubber parts will occur. Clean the cap and sides of reservoir before removing cap, then remove diaphragm. Carefully replace diaphragm and cover after filling. Hydraulic Clutch Control System IMPORTANT: The clutch hydraulic system is to be serviced as a COMPLETE UNIT!!!. It is a sealed unit and has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Individual components of the system are not available for service, except the slave cylinder actuator pushrod plastic retainer strap. Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic system. The bleed screw located on the clutch hydraulic slave cylinder is used for the factory fluid fill only. WARNING: Do not attempt to bleed the clutch hydraulic unit. Any observed fittings are there for factory use only. The unit comes as a complete pre-bled unit. REMOVAL Block clutch pedal up to prevent pedal from being depressed with slave cylinder removed from transaxle. Remove air induction system. Disconnect negative battery cable from battery. Disconnect positive battery cable from battery Remove hold-down retaining nut and screw, and lift off battery hold-down retainer. Lift the battery of vehicle, and place in a safe location. Remove battery tray bolts and tray. IMPORTANT: One bolt is located in the fender well. NOTICE: Removal of the hydraulic damper with a power tool prior to removal of the actuator could result in breaking off the hydraulic line. IMPORTANT: Prior to removing the slave cylinder from the clutch housing, make sure that the clutch hydraulic system has sufficient fluid. Refer to the "Clutch Hydraulic Fluid Check" procedures in this manual. (This is not necessary if the clutch hydraulic system is being removed to be replaced.) Rotate actuator 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward housing in order to disengage the bayonet connector and remove from clutch housing. Remove two hydraulic damper to clutch housing nuts and slide damper and bracket assembly off studs. ABS equipped vehicles, remove brake master cylinder-to-booster nuts. NOTICE: ABS equipped vehicles require the brake master cylinder to be moved off booster studs and moved slightly towards the engine to allow removal of the clutch hydraulic master cylinder. Use care not to bend or kink brake lines. Remove clutch master cylinder pushrod retainer clip from clutch pedal pin and disconnect pushrod from pedal. Turn clutch master cylinder approximately 1/8 turn clockwise and remove from dash. Remove hydraulic system from vehicle. INSTALLATION IMPORTANT: When installing a new unit, the plastic retainer straps on the actuator remain in place when installing the unit. This will ensure the actuator rod is seated in the clutch release fork pocket as the actuator is installed. IMPORTANT: When installing an existing unit, a new plastic retainer strap should be installed on the end of the pushrod and the straps should be attached to the actuator. Install clutch master cylinder into dash with reservoir leaning outboard. Turn approximately 1/8 turn counterclockwise to lock in position. On ABS equipped vehicles, place the brake master cylinder back on the booster studs and tighten brake master cylinder-to-booster nuts. Torque:27 N.m (20 ft. lbs.) . Slide damper and bracket onto clutch housing damper studs and install nuts. Torque:25 N.m (18 ft. lbs.) . Install actuator into clutch housing with hydraulic line facing down and rotate actuator 1/4 turn clockwise while pushing toward housing. Add dielectric (silicone) grease to clutch pedal pin then connect pushrod and install pushrod retainer clip to clutch pedal pin. Install battery tray. Torque battery tray bolts. Make sure battery tray is clean. Make sure that the battery cable ends are clean and free of corrosion. (Clean with a wire brush.) Make sure that the battery is in good physical condition (e.g., no cracks, or obvious damage) and that the terminals are clean. Install battery carefully in the battery tray; make sure that the terminals do not short against any metal during the installation. Install battery hold-down retainer, locking the battery into the tray. Install and tighten the hold-down retainer nut and screw. Install the positive battery cable first. Torque:17 N.m (151 inch lbs.) . Install the negative battery cable last. Torque:17 N.m (151 inch lbs.) . Install air induction system.
yes,open bleeder valve on cluch slave cylinder and clutch damper to release air.
I bought a bleeder vacumm pump at Oreilly auto parts for 47.99. Bench bleeding with the new hydraulic clutch master cylinder out of the jeep did not seem possible as there is …no bleeder valve or one way valve once you remove the hard hydraulic line with the o ring on it from the master cylinder. Note that you will need to punch out the set pin that holds the fitting in place after removing the cylinder from the firewall. I started with a small punch and worked my way down to a deck screw or strong nail and a 4 pound beater. I spray oiled the pin and pulled it out with small vice grips. To install the set pin in the new plastic master cylinder I grabbed one end with the vice grips heated it until it was red hot with a map gas torch and lanced it in place. I still needed to carefully press it in flush with the vice grips around the plastic. This is a one shot deal but it worked well for me. Go easy and get comfortable. Bolt the cylinder back to the firewall after connecting the line. Reattach the clutch pedal inside with the keeper pin. Fill the new reservoir with dot 3 or 4 brake fluid. Open the in line bleeder valve on the bell housing. With your clear hose attached to the bleeder valve and your pump set up to the hose open the valve until fluid flows through the hose and into your capped inline plastic clear jar provided with your pump. I pumped all of the old crap fluid out and constantly filled the new master cylinder reservoir with fluid. It helps if you have someone to monitor the fluid level for you and fill it as needed but you can do it solo by frequently checking it yourself. When your new fluid pumps out clean and bubble free hand tighten up your bleeder valve with your clear hose still attached to it. Check and fill your reservoir, cap it. Sit in the seat and pump your clutch pedal until you feel pressure return. Remove your hose and your pump. Wrench tighten the bleeder valve. I hope that this helps you out. This process took me longer than I initially thought it would but it works. 93yj S/2.5/5spd/dana 30&35 w 410's/ swamper boggers 33x 13.5/Homemade mudflaps for highway patrol/ 3.5" rustys add a leafs/ homemade 5/8x 1/4" stacked and ducttaped platewasher bodylift 1.5"(total) with longer grade 8 bolts (OSH)/ RS 5000's and rs 5000 steering damper/ Home made generic K&N cold air ram Filter with hvac and abs plumbing parts no hub couplings from home depot/ throttle body spacer off ebay/ steel horse targa style 2 piece hard top off craigslist cost $100 more than the yj. Owner is a cheapskate Ironworker with alot of common sense and American Inginuity.
There is a bleeder valve on slave cylinder conected to trans simply get someone to pump clutch pedal hold it down crack valve until no more air is left in lines should only ta…ke a couple times refill master cylinder with dot 3 brake fluid and your done
It is important that you bench bleed the unit before you install it and keep the reservoir full during the process.
It is important to bleed a clutch master and slave cylinder to make sure all of the air is out of the lines. For a 1989 Chevy you would need to know model you had, and then fi…nd the repair manual for that specific vehicle.