Audi A3

I have changed timing belt on 97 A3 - 80,000ks - this would be upper distance travelled - be prepared to also replace water pump and idler roller as they are both part of tensioning path - the alternative could be somewhat expensive.

The 2007 Audi A3 has an inline 4 engine.

The 2008 Audi A3 has a drag coefficient of 0.33 Cd.

I can answer this because I just finished mine today. :)

First off you are going to need some good tools and at the least six jack stands if you are performing this feat on the ground. ( Not using a lift )

The process requires that you lower the back half of your engine cradle and it can be DANGEROUS. You will be removing two large bolts that support your engine and transmission and I am talking about letting loose over 600 pounds of steel right above your head so if you do not think you are up to this DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!

With that said I'll give you a good rundown of the job.

1. Park your car on a hard level surface and set your parking brake. DO NOT DO THIS IN YOUR FREAKING YARD OR GRAVEL DRIVEWAY! ( Unless you want to be crushed by a 3,000 pound car )

2. loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM YET )

3. Raise and support your vehicle on four good jack stands.

( Or you can do like I did and use two steel ramps at the rear of the car and two jack stands on the front. If you choose to do it this way don't loosen your front lugs until you have backed your vehicle onto the ramps and SET YOUR PARKING BRAKE )

4. Remove the front wheels and disconnect your vehicles battery.

5. Make sure your wheel hubs are pointing straight ahead and then separate the outer tie rod ends from the steering knuckles and inspect your outer tie rod ends for wear and boot damage if they flop around like a limp noodle they are shot and need to be replaced. Now is a good time to replace them because when all is said and done you will need to have your vehicle aligned anyway. Outer tie rod ends can be bought for around $20 bucks. ( DO NOT REMOVE THEM FROM THE OLD RACK YET )

6. Just under the driver side in the wheel well look through at the rack and pinion closest to you. You will notice where the intermediate shaft joins with the rack.

There will be a rubber dust cover covering the shaft. You might see a warning label wrapped around the dust cover. Go ahead and push the dust cover above the racks stub shaft and access the intermediate shafts pinch bolt. Use a long extension to reach this bolt and remove it. Take a heavy screwdriver and gently pry off the intermediate shaft. ( NOTE do not disturb "ROTATE" the steering wheel at this point because it will affect re-installation and cause damage to the steering column and your air bag wiring.

7. Place two jack stands under the rear outer edges of the engine cradle and position them as to allow the engine cradle to lower down to them about 4 inches then support the rear of the engine cradle in the center just behind the transmission pan with a good floor jack. ( NOT THE PAN ITSELF ) Apply just enough pressure with the floor jack to support the engine cradle when the two rear engine cradle bolts are removed so the engine and transmission does not fall out. ( DANGER BE CAREFUL!! ) ( It is best to position the floor jack with the pump handle facing out toward the front of the car.

8. Remove the two large rear engine cradle bolts and GENTLY lower the floor jack so the engine cradle will rest on your two jack stands you placed under the engine cradle for support. ( Do not lower the engine cradle too far you will cause the rear of the engine to hit the firewall and you will damage your engine! )

9. Once you have made sure your engine cradle is secure resting on the jack stands you will now have access to the two power steering lines connected to your rack. You will need a 18mm wrench to remove them. Place a drain pan under the car and remove both the high pressure line and the return line from your old rack and allow them to drain into the pan. ( remove the power steering fluid fill cap to allow them to drain more easily ) Remove your serpentine belt from the power steering pulley and spin the pulley by hand this will evacuate the remaining old power steering fluid from the pump.

Now is a good time to fill and flush your power steering pump with fresh power steering fluid and spin the pump pulley by hand again to force out all of the old dirty fluid. ( Do this until the fluid runs clear )

10. Next There are two bolts and nuts that hold in your rack you will see them on the bottom of the rack one on each side. You will again need a 18mm wrench and 18mm ratchet to remove these bolts. If your car is equipped with magna steer disconnect the electrical connector that is attached to your rack. It is on the drivers side.

11. Carefully remove the old rack through the driver side wheel well. Pay attention and don't manhandle the rack out because you can damage your power steering hoses and electrical wires.

12. Carefully install the new rack the same way you took it out and bolt it in. The new rack should come with new o rings for the power steering lines USE THEM. Reattach the power steering hoses and tighten them to 20 foot pounds of torque. reattach the magna steer connector. ( DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE POWER STEERING LINES YOU WILL RIP OUT THE THREADS!! )

13. Raise the engine cradle back into position and bolt it in. ( I recommend that you use thread locker on the engine cradle bolts DON'T USE TOO MUCH OR YOU WILL NEVER REMOVE THEM EVER AGAIN ) Once you have the engine cradle secured back in you can remove the jack stands you supported the cradle with and remove the floor jack.

14. If you are using new tie rod ends or reusing the old ones you will need to count how many threads they are screwed on the old rack so your alignment will be good enough to get you to an alignment shop. Count how many threads the jamb nut is from the inside of the racks inner tie rod and make a note of it and then count how many turns it takes you to unscrew the outer tie rod from the racks inner tie rod and also make a note of it. you will need to repeat this for each side as they both will be different Screw the jamb nut onto the new racks inner tie rod and use your notes to position the new or reused tie rod onto the new rack. once you are happy with this reconnect the outer tie rods to their steering knuckles and then tighten the jamb nut against the outer tie rod.

15. Fill the power steering fluid reservoir and reattach your serpentine belt to the power steering pulley. Reattach the intermediate shaft to the racks stub shaft and reinsert the pinch bolt. (DANGER!! MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE INTERMEDIATE SHAFT FULLY ENGAGED WITH THE STUB SHAFT BEFORE YOU INSTALL THE PINCH BOLT! ) Place the dust cover back over the shaft and reconnect the battery.

16. Start the car and SLOWLY turn your steering wheel from stop to stop several times to help purge air from the new rack. this may take you several times. Your power steering pump will whine for a bit as you do this. Make sure you keep the power steering fluid topped off. Now look under the car and check for leaks from the power steering lines.

17. Reattach the front wheels and GET YOUR CAR TO AN ALIGNMENT SHOP or you will regret it later.

Hope this helps!

The curb weight of the 2013 Audi A3 is 3219 lbs..

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0x8000: 0xde

0x8001: 0xad

0x8002: 0xbe

0x8003: 0xef

Headlight Relays are Generally located in the "Black Box" in the Engine Compartment. Good Luck and Remember.
Change Your Mind, Not Your Oil.
Use the First In Synthetic Motor Oil's.
See My Bio For more information.

it is for the ejector seat. Seriously though, it stands for "sport" and when you drive with it there it lets the engine rev higher for any given speed under acceleration when compared with "d" position. So say at 40MPH in "d" the indicated rpm might be 3000 and in "s" at 40 mph it might be 4000. Finally, at a higher rpm your car will make more power (an eat more gas) so use "s" at the track or for a quick getaway.

if I'm not mistaken it should be 6 or 7

The Audi A3 is a 4 door sedan. Many families use this car as it is a 4 door car makes it easy to use with children. It is also bigger than most coupes.

Dealer's parts department.

where is the fuse box in the audi A1

Okay, the "tyre number" is 205 55 16 (not 2055516). 205mm wide, 112.75mm from wheel to tread (55% of 205) and the center is 16" wide for wheels. So yes, 16" wheels will fit on your audi a3 and they will fit inside your 205 55 16 tires.

This is a very easy and quick job. I had never attempted this before and was able to do it in under 20mins. This is for an Audi A3 2005 engine code BLR.

Thinks you will need.

1. A narrow head Philips screwdriver

2. A small socket and ratchet set

3. A torx head screwdriver set

4. Replacement switch

5. Friend to assist checking of the brake lights

Firstly remove the side panel from the dash on the drivers side. This should be done with the philips screwdriver and should just pop off. Instructions for this are in the car manual. You will see the fuses and near the front a small bolt screw. There are three of these retaining the lower fascia of the dash. Undo this one. The other two are in the footwell at the lower end of the dash - one left and one right. Use the ratchet and I think it was a 10mm socket. Ease the fascia down and pop off at the top. A bit of gentle pulling should do the job.

You will need the torx screwdriver to remove a retaining screw for the heating venting. Behind this is the switch, sitting just above and infront of the brake pedal. Twist anticlockwise about 30-45 degrees and you will feel it come free. Remove. Again use the small philips screwdriver to depress the locking mechanism for the plug and remove from the switch.

At this point do not adjust the brake pedal or press it down, lean on it in any way until the switch is in place.

Put the new switch through the hole and rotate 30-45 degrees until it is properly seated. You should hear it click in to place. No setting is required beyond this as it should self adjust. Ensure you hear it click!!

You can now push the brake pedal down and you will see the plunger move out of the switch.

You will need your friend now to check the lights are activated when you press the pedal. If you have no one to help reverse the car near to a wall or white garage door and check for each light in your mirrors.

Replace the fascia.

Job done.

No, they do not have the same chassis.

The 2011 Audi A3's engine produces 200 hp @ 5100 rpm.

On Audi V-6's it should be on the block front flat surface in front of the right cylinder head. The Rt. or Lt. hand of a car is while sitting in it.

The 2012 Audi A3's turning circle is 35.1 ft..

H1

The 2013 Audi A3 vehicle can be viewed at Audi's official website AudiUSA. Images are also available at CarandDriver and Edmunds websites. For numerous examples without text descriptions, search on Audi A3 using an image filter.

its inside the drivers side dash you need to look where the dash meets the door card on the side

my bonnet is stuck fast how can i open it.

on BMW ect it means standard equipment but on Audi it means special edition, not a lot of people know this

Don't know if it's the same, but on the 1993 LX, that fuse box is underneath the dashboard, next to the driver's door. The cover panel should be labeled with a basic guide, and the owner's manual should have a more detailed description of which fuse controls what.