Audi Quattro

The battery is under the back seat

by going to an AutoZone store and having them reset it with their handheld computer system that plugs directly into the information port under the dashboard on the drivers side

inspect the auxilliary radiator fan.

it's under the driver's seat. If you need to jump start the car or recharge the battery use the remote posts that are situated to the back right hand side of the engine space (the positive is under a red plastic cap)

what?!!

CAYMAN S 0 TO 60 WITH 19 INCH ALOYS'S AND SPORT SWITCH ACTIVATED = 4.8 SECS TOP SPEED 175MPH CAYMAN S 0 TO 60 ON 18 INCH ALLOY'S WITHOUT SPORTS OPTION = 5.1 SECONDS. without 19 wheels and sports option a skilled driver will manage 5 secs on average caymans on 19inch alloy's with sports option 0 to 60 under 5 secs

their both great cars for starter but Volvo's safer and it's cheaper, that's about it. the Audi on the other hand it's cooler,better interior,better quality, but also it's more expensive.if your willing to pay extra for more room,better interior,better exterior,and faster go with the Audi a4.

About 5.25 with filter.

The owners manual has several different weights listed depending on the ambient temperature in which the car is to be driven. 5w30 is recommended up to 100 degrees. over that and it is recommending a 20w50. I would use a good synthetic 5w30 which is good for much higher temperatures and will easily perform well in the +100 degree range as well as the -0 temp range. Mobil 1 or Amsoil fit the bill nicely.

2006

The front speakers are pretty easily removed, pry off the speaker cover (it is attached with a really sticky gum-like adhesive in 3 places) and un-screw the speaker with a short Phillips head screwdriver. Re-installation is the reverse.

The rear speakers are a little harder but still do-able. Gently pry off the side cover just above the wood trim. I suggest using a medium sized flathead screwdriver covered with a soft cloth or rag to avoid scratching the wood. You are trying to loosen 3 pressure clips located just behind the wood, which are what holds the trim piece in place. (Note- The speaker grille is part of the trim, it will be irreparable damaged if you try to remove it)

Once the trim is off, unscrew the speaker and remove. Note also that the rear speakers are powered by the sub-woofer, in order to get sound from new speakers you will need to run new wire to the new speakers if you aren't replacing with Audi speakers.

I replaced my Audi delta radio with a Blaupunkt and the harness connected the subwoofer fine but as one of my rears was blown, I went with aftermarket speakers and had to wire both apart from the new head unit.

No but, a 5X112 does.

Headlight adapter will depend on what type of aftermarket headlights you currently have. Many aftermarket headlights come with plug and play adapter. Meaning they will directly bolt onto your stock adapter.

Sometimes, it is just cheaper to get another set of aftermarket headlights than looking for a rare adapter, which can be expensive and time consuming. Check out the headlights here, they all come with plug and play adapter.

under the coil packs

The battery is located in the trunk underneath the storage compartment (passenger side rear.) Remove the panel creating the storage compartment then lift up the section below it. It is adhered by Velcro.

Make a jumper wire from the positive lug under the hood and attach to the wire that goes from solenoid to starter. (scrape off insulation and clamp it on) (remember to tape it up well.)

With the end clamped at the solenoid wire, just touch the other end to the positive lug (I have his on the A6 and believe on the A4 as well.)

The starter should turn.

This will only test the starter and solenoid.

Could be ignition switch or relay.

You CAN NOT run the car like this - just for testing.

about 170hp

Same thing as a Cranks sensor, basically allows the computer to recognize what position the crank is on a 360 degree cycle.

takes about an hour you access from under rear seat.. unit fitted to fuel tank...check FUEL PUMP RELAY first ....

Roughly 500usd labor excluding parts

SAE 5w40 full synthetic.

That'll be the carrier bearing. This happened with my Audi A6 quattro. On my model, it was more cost effective to replace the entire driveshaft than to pay for the labor to replace just the bearing.

It runs off the car's battery.

It should be a timing belt and i believe Audi recommends every 105,000 miles, but... Replace it at 90,000 or sooner i have seen them fail well before 105,000

This is by no means a definitive guide merely a general brake pad/disc changing guide.*

1: make sure the car is parked on flat level hard standing and is left in gear with the hard brake on

2: 'crack' the nuts, whilst the car is still bearing the load through its wheels, loosen the wheel nuts only a turn or two ( a locking nut maybe required for at least one nut with some cars )

3: place your jack on the jacking point (normally located to the rear of the wheel arch about 5-6 inches under the car and is marked by two groves in the metal chasis running the length of the main load carrying area) jack up the car until an inch or two is of clear space is visible between the ground and bottom of the tyre, if you have one place a stand as close as possible to the jack on the metal rail the jack s holding the car up by, and lower carefully until the all the weight is being taken by the stand ( this will provide a far more stable platform for the car as jacks are often wheeled and you can find yourself sitting inside the wheel arch or under the car )

4: continue to loosen the wheel nuts until all of them have been removed then remove the wheel remembering to keep all the wheel nuts in a safe place!

5: the caliper will be fixed in place onto the brake disc using 2 nuts located behind the caliper (as you look at it form the side of the car) remove these to move the caliper from the brake disc, as the brake pads are normally with 1mm of the disc you may have to move the piston slightly using a screwdriver as leverage.

6: to change the disc remove the disc retaining clip, normally a large circlip and remove the nuts that hold the disc in place. then fit your new one and repeat what you have just done in this part but in reverse order

7: if you wish to change the brake pads simply place the new one's (make sure they are the same as the one you have removed! halfords has a small booklet attached to the brake pad/disc section, with car makes and models listed telling you exactly which ones you need for frontc/back) where the old one's were, remembering to replace the retaining clip if there is one present. (these are often just anti rattle clips, so do not worry is they are not present, however if you get new clips with the new pad's they are most likely more important and you should endevour to fit them)

8: to re-fit the piston is often a pain in the ass without the proper equipment but it is none the less achieveable with a bit of determination. firstly you will need to sit the brake pads correctly in their slots within the caliper, next try and slide the caliper over the brake disc, you can almost garuntee it wont fit, in order to make it fit you need to push the piston back (all the way in if you have replaced both brake disc and pads, and at least 75% of the way if you have replaced one or the other) this can either be achived using a 'g' clamp if you have one available, simply place a piece of wood on the piston and tighten the clamp until the piston retracts inside the caliper, unfortunately some pistons are wind in and out, in which case it will help and make life very simple so have the tool which will fit the groves that are in the caliper, with which you can simply turn like a screw until its is retracted sufficiently, as it is unlikely you will have such tool, a screw driver can be used to place across the grooves or even a pair of pliers to grip the piston and twist.

9: once the piston is retracted enough to allow the caliper (with brake pads in!) to slide over the brake disc replace the two caliper holding nuts you removed earlier. (now is an ideal time to either change or bleed the brake fluid in the system, how ever this is a two man job, without equipment that is very cheap and available from halfords with a complete operating guide (wow i sound like a salesman for halfords))

10: now replace the wheel back on to its perch and put the nuts back in through the wheel itself and tighten as far as they will go. finally lower the car (carefully!) back to tera firma and repeat three times!

note: the rear brakes whilst the same in principal will occasionally differ from the front, normally using a split pin and slide lock to hold the brake pads in place, this will however become apparent once the wheel has been removed and is faily simple to remove and replace.

Tool list (required) locking not if applicable, jack with a rating capable of lifting the car, socket set with sockets that will fit wheel nuts, large screw driver, sockets that will remove the nuts holding the caliper in place, Allen key/torque bit to remove brake disc holding nuts, 'g' clamp (a large spanner or screw driver will sometimes do if you can get good leverage/something to grip the piston to wind it back in or the piston winding key. this is a bare minimum and you will struggle with just these items however it is possible and i have managed it!

nice to have items: stand to rest the car on. circlip plier to remove circlip, something comfy to kneel/lie on, coveralls, later gloves, (a car mechanic's garage!) tool to re-wind caliper if req. an assorment of Allen keys, torque bits, socket sets are often useful (im not sure wether Audi use's imperial or metric measurements, i suspect being German effeciency it will be metric.

*this guide is by no means a step by step guide answering your question it is merely what i have encountered changeing brake discs and pads on my car and friends cars and is only my opinion. although while changing a the brakes it is always handy to have a haines manual around, which i would probably advise buying as it will also give you step by step pictures instead of just my text, and the exact tools you need!

i hope this has been of some use to you even if you just read the last bit that says buy a haines manual, alternatively you could just fork out and let a mechanic take care of it for you!