Cadillac STS

depends on your particular setup. a rear whell drive v8 takes 16.5 hrs x the shop rate. An all wheel drive v6 is 24.6 hours labor. It could cost 2k to reapr the engine if that is the problem.

Cadilac deville neutral switch location and images show

There are 3 screws which you must remove. 1 behind the door handle and 2 directly behind the lower trim where the arm rest is. Then you have to pop off the panel and lift carefully because of the wiring harness for the door lights. It should then be slid or rotated outwards. At that point all you have to do is pop the center of the grommet's inward to remove them and the interior panel can then be removed. Hope this helps, I did it a week ago via trial and error..

The 1997 Cadillac power window relay switch can be found inside of the drivers side door. You will need to remove the inside door panel in order to access the power window relay switch.

they r prtty fast cars but charger will take over.

No

I can answer this question because I have just done it. It isn?t as bad as what I heard it was going to be, just time consuming, and will take about 3 1/2 hours to get it out and 3 hours to get it back in. It starts like this: Disconnect both sides of the connections on the battery + and ? Jack the car up to about 18 inches of clearance underneath Remove serpentine belt and let it hang. Take off all three plastic shields off of engine compartment (right wheel well, splash panel-under, and radiator cover, top) Remove both front headlights, remove hood latch carrier plus latch and cable. Remove protective foam and top radiator hold downs (2). Remove radiator hoses. I did not drain the antifreeze as the drain plug was hard to locate and most of the hoses are up where you can get at them. Disconnect the AC condenser and lift away from the radiator. Remove the two radiator spacer flaps; remember how they go back on as my two were differently shaped. Remove fan bolts from radiator. Lift the radiator gently out of its rubber shock absorbers and lean slightly forward. Very carefully snake the dual fans out the left side and up past the radiator without dinging the radiator. If you are not sure of yourself put a piece of cardboard between the two so that they don?t bump together. With the fans out of the way you can now disconnect the upper and lower transmission lines. You can pull up on the radiator and lift it all the way out. It slides into little slots so you may have to give it a slight tug to break it loose. There is one little coolant line in the lower left corner of the radiator, make sure you disconnect this hose before you lift up. Now the alternator is fully exposed. There is a ground in the front, a connector block in the back, 4-5 bolts and two coolant lines that run in and out of it. I cut mine with a sharp knife knowing I was replacing with all new rubber hose, buy two feet of it at the auto parts store, this will cover everything you need. The new hose is not form fitted like the original was, so plan on buying a few zip-ties so you can anchor the new hose to run the same course as before. That?s pretty much it, I made a detailed list of everything I did and kept all the bolts in marked baggies so I would not forget where they went. Put in your new alternator, cut the new hose the same length as the old and reverse the process on this list. Do not be tempted to reinstall the fans connected to the radiator as one whole unit, if you do this you will not be able to get at and tighten the lower transmission line. Do it just like you took it out and remember in your mind about the little slots the fans and condenser slide into. The most time consuming problem I ran into was trying to slide the original Cadillac compression clamps back up onto their old slots on the rubber radiator hoses. If I ever do it again I would get the radiator clamps that tighten with a screw driver or a 5/16ths socket. Replace lost anti-freeze, check transmission fluid level and recharge AC with Freon. There you go, that is pretty much how it is done. May the Force be with You. I pretty much agree except there is no need to discharge the AC. There were changes over the years. On a 98 STS remove the upper radiator cover, then remove the hood latch frame and set on top of the engine unbolt the oil cooler lines from the left front side of the radiator as you are facing it. The lower line has a long fitting which usually rusts to the tube and the tube twists off so you have to replace the lower oil cooler line, $44 from Cadillac unless you are lucky. Unbolt the headlights, 2 bolts ea. and unsnap the electrical connections, set aside. Remove the 2 bolts from the AC condenser that hold it to the radiator, lift it up and move it forward. Unhook the fiber flap on the driver's side from the raditor. Remove the retaining bolt for the upper transaxle cooler line from the fan shroud. This will be easier to do if you at least remove the upper part of the air cleaner. Unbolt the 2 upper raditor retaining bolts and brackets and lift up on the radiator and tilt it forward. remove the 2 radiator hoses from the radiator. remove the upper transaxle cooler line from the quick release connector. Simply slide the plastic retainer back on the line and remove the snap ring with a small screwdriver, then pull the line out Now you can tilt the radiator further forward and remove the bolt that holds the oil cooler lines to the fan shroud (lower passenger side) and the electrical connectors from the fans. There is also a clip that holds one of the AC lines to the fan shroud, unbolt the 2 bolts that secure the fan shroud to the radiator then you can move the fan shroud back about 1/2" on the bottom and slide to the left and up and then to the right and up to remove the cooling fans this takes about an hour and all you need is a 10mm socket on your rachet, a small screw driver and a 7/8 flare wrench for the oil cooler lines (an open end may do, but I prefer a flare wrench). Disconnect the + battery cable and remove the serpetine belt. Disconnect the wires and cooling lines from the alternator and unbolt the alternator, the small snap in connector may be easier to disconnect once the atlernator is unbolted. You do not need to remove the radiator, or the lower plastic shield, or the one in the wheel well, just remove the other end of the upper radiator hose from the engine and slide the alternator to the right and out behind the upper frame member where you removed the air cleaner top. Reassembly is pretty much the reverse. Do replace all of the rubber hoses, you do not want to do this again. Molded hoses are no longer available from Cadillac, so get 3/8 cooling hose as close to the same od as the origional, because the spring clamps are far superior to the worm drive style. Also replace the the O rings on the oil cooler lines, these are available from Cadillac for under $2 ea. Make sure the old O rings are not still in the radiator or they will leak. Although I do not know when changes were made, it could have been any time between mid 1998 and 2000. On a 2000 it is not necessary to remove any transaxle or oil cooling lines. There is no clamp for the oil cooler lines. Remove the upper radiator cover, then remove the hood latch frame and set on top of the engine. Remove headlights, unbolt the 2 bolts from the AC condenser that hold it to the radiator, and lift it clear. Remove upper air cleaner pc. Unbolt the upper transaxle cooler line retainer from the fan shroud and the upper 2 radiator retaining bolts and brackets.and lift up on the radiator and tilt it forward. Remove the 2 radiator hoses from the radiator. Unbolt the 2 bolts that secure the fan shroud to the radiator, and the electrical connectors from the fans. Now you can pull the fan assembly straight up and out, this was a great improvement over earlier models. then remove and repace alternator as on 1998. and reinstall radiator, headlights etc. estimated time for 1998 3-4 hours total. 2000 2-3 hrs total.

The Cadillac SLS has a 275 bhp NorthStar v8. It comes with smaller wheel/tire package and less STANDARD options.If you look at them from the side you'll see the SLS usually has a large "Door Protector" Molding down the side that wraps into the bumper and the STS does not. The STS has a large ground effect front and rear bumper and minimal to no body side molding. The STS came with more bells and whistles in 94 like the combined Audio and climate control stack in the center that an SLS may or may not have depending on date of manufacture. Hope that helped Dave H SLS IS SEVILLE LUXURY SEDAN STS IS SEVILLE TOURING SEDAN PAUL G

It is a real pain. First you have to take the fan shroud off. It clips in 4 slots on the radiator two are snapped in. Pull on the tabs and then push up and remove the fan shroud through the bottom of the car. This will give you access to the radiator. The radiator support has 4 bolts that need to be removed from the bottom. Then it takes some moving around to get it free, the whole radiator slides to the left. It took my friend 3 hours and he is a mechanic, they really bury the radiator on this car. It comes out from the bottom the plastic that you see on top isn't how you remove it.

Does it have a nav screen? if so follow these steps -press the config hard button below the screen -go to i believe occupant information and then there should be a driver 1 and driver 2 button go into either or and then position your seat and then you should be able to press a save button or something simmilar sry if this was a little bit off or not quite complete but it should be close enough, didnt want to go out to my car to look :P

"i believe you have to change the entire fog light assembly."

Wrong Answer.

Correct Answer: Remove the wheel well splash guard to access the fog lamp assembly. Twist the harness and remove the old bulb. Replace bulb. Twist harness back into fog lamp assembly. Replace the wheel well splash guard. Done.

The best and only gas to use to keep your caddy emmission clean is 93' octane. preferably from a Shell's gas station.

I suspect you mean the neutral/safety switch. It is at the end of the shift cable, on top of the transmission, just below the brake booster. It is the main reason for not starting, not the starters! Wally of Hagerstown, MD

ur cadillac has two oxigen sensors one is behind the fans of the radiador under the car its located in the manifold the other one its on the pasenger side under the car its bolted on the cadilaconberter

Most likely have leaky fuel injectors. It can be most anything that would causeover rich/ not burning fuel to be pushed past the rings. If the car seams to be running fine (not missfiring) the sparkplugs and wiring is probley ok. Butif under load there is a miss replace both. A good way to tell if you have one or more leakingfuel injectors, the plug for that cyl/injector will be much darker (even black)from the over supply of fuel. I would start off with pulling all plugs and ifany are fouled replace them. Noting witch hole they were in. Run around own for10 or 15 miles, pull the plugs that were fouled and compair it to another holethat was running clean, and if the new plug is starting to get sooty (gettingdark) you found which injector is leaking. If it is not fouling to fast try theinjector cleaner (works best on 1/2 tank or less). You can buy the cleaner fromany auto supply store, takes any ware from 5 to 30 miles before the cleaningstarts to take. If the cleaner does not help replace that injector.

Hope this helps you, Ben Parker, San Jose, Ca

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?UseCase=S001&UserAction=viewSimpleDiagInfo&Parameters=info

at45 to 50 mph I will get about 26.6 mpg

Obviously this cannot be diagnosed without seeing it but heres a suggestion to consider. When you put your foot on the brake and bring up the rpms you are smoothing out the engine. You may have a bad plug wire that is "moving in the breeze so to speak" the engine may be vibrating it just enough to come close enough to a ground that will create a skip. I had a similar problem with a VW years ago. Going up a steep hill it would skip. At idle it would skip intermitently. I was looking at it under the hood one night(in the pitch dark) and caught a glance at the spark jumping over to the engine from a plug wire intermitently. Changed all the plug wires and it never happened again. Look for a bad plug wire. If you have high miles just change them and it will probably cure your problem

Use the climate control unit. with key in on position and engine off press the off and the warmer button at the same time for about 3 seconds. the codes will be displayed. Use the fan speed switch to toggle between codes and to clear.

Very simple...... Open the hood. On the right side of the engine (driver side is left-passenger always right!) you'll see a black box with a red cap on the topside. This is the front fusebox by the way.... Lift the red cap to expose the (+) connector. About 10inch behind this connector you'll see a bolt holding the plastic washerfluid container to the suspension tower. That your minus... (- ) But you could use any metal part of the engine if you want... just not to close to the fusebox (+).

If you are sitting in the driver's seat, most Northstar Cadillacs have the turn signal flasher just to the left of the steering column, behind the plunger for the headlights... it's a black, square, electronic flasher.

To access the flasher, you have to remove the knee booster & the metal plate behind it, then "fish" to the left of the access hole for the unit... it's clipped to the dash, so you sometimes have to fight with it a little.

FYI... If Auto Zone tells you it's located on the passenger side of the steering column, they are wrong.

The head gasket is the thin piece of gasket material that is between the engine block and the head. The head gasket fills small imperfections in the head and creates an air-tight seal between the two surfaces, note that it is a seal that is capable of enduring tremendous extremes of heat and pressure. Usually, when a head gasket goes bad, it is caused by a warped head. Heads warp when the engine overheats. In an extreme case, when an engine overheats the head and/or engine block can crack. But in any case, all are caused by an overheated engine. To prevent engine overheating, inspect belts and hoses whenever you purchase fuel. Do it when you check the oil... oh yea... you should probably check the oil regularly as well, but that's another subject. If you see cracks in the hoses or the belt, make the appropriate changes as soon as possible. Hoses also become hard and inflexible. They should be replaced when THAT happens as well. It is not at all unreasonable to expect over 200,000 miles from a properly maintained engine. Heads and head gaskets will last that entire time if the vehicle is properly maintained. The cylinder head is a piece that sits on top of the block and forms the upper part of the combustion chamber. It houses valves, sparkplugs, injectors, and part of the cooling system. It is bolted to the top of the engine block, separated by a thin gasket which seals the space between the two. If this head gasket breaks ("blown gasket"), you can lose compression, necessary for engine combustion, or you could possibly have an exhaust or coolant leak, depending where the break is. "Usually," the replacement of a head gasket is not a big or expensive job...unless there are a lot of engine parts that have to be removed to get to it. A cracked head, on the other hand, may have the appearance of a blown head gasket, i.e., loss of compression or exhaust from the cylinders, but repairing a cracked head means removing it and replacing it, along with the valves, sparkplugs, etc., and can be quite a bit more expensive. Hope that helps. A cracked head means the head itself has a crack in it. Usually between the valves. A blown head gasket means that the gasket that sits between the cylinder head & the engine block has a crach in it allowing the oil and water to mix.

No.

Underneath the air filter box (under the hood on the driver's side).

The oil drain plug is on the passenger side of the oil pan. It is close to the rear corner of the pan.