Chevy 305

All V8 Chevrolet's firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2. 1,3,5,7 is on the left bank and 2,4,6,8 is on the right bank. The distributor turns clockwise.

ABSOLUTELY!!! I tow my racecar on a flat open trailer (6300 lbs) with my 1996 Chevy C1500 305 4L60E four speed automatic and have NO difficulties. However, I would strongly recommend an electric brake unit, aux trans cooler, and an adequate hitch.

If the head is still on the engine, you can purchase a kit at most auto parts stores that includes: an air fitting to keep the cylinder filled with compressed air to prevent the valve from dropping into the cylinder, and a special wrench to attach to the rocker stud and press down on the spring retainer while you remove the locks.

If the head is off the engine, you will need a valve spring compressor, which is a large c-shaped tool that pushes on the valve's head on one end and the valve spring retainer on the other end.

Also you can buy/rent a valve spring compressor that you can use while the head is still on the engine but you will still need to blow air into the cylinder through the spark plug hole to keep the valve up.

Due to the emissions control sensitivity,The idle can vary between 500 and about 2500 RPM. If you are adjusting the idle without a meter,etc. ,you want it running fairly low without stalling when it's hot. You will need to tweek it most likely when the weather changes.

That would mean the entire trans was switched to the earlier turbo 350 transmission. Mark

More than likely mounted near or in the carburetor. Some screw directly into the carb, follow the fuel line. It is a very large bolt. Use a line wrench in order to not round it off. Watch for a fuel spray when you loosen it, and pay attention to how it and the spring go in. Buy the filter and you will have an idea what your are looking for.

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i just replaced the filter on my truck

make sure the plastic washer is in good shape otherwise the filter chamber will go too far in to the carb bending the filter.

make sure the hole is in the front of the filter.

if you have tpi its most likely the mass air flow sensor that makes it way to rich and the cat can not keep up so it plugs up letting raw fuel out the tail pipe

For a 305 with a 4brl carb. it would be about 145 hp. For a 305 tbi it produces 215hp from factory.

No, a 305 TBI is rated at 185 HP stock. The 350 TBI is 210 HP stock. I swear some people have no business giving answers. I am not referring to you specifically, but in general. I have corrected like 5 answers in the last 10 minutes.

WEIGHT OF 1983 305 About 580 lbs depending whats on it

There is a mark on the timing chain cover behind the harmonic balancer(behind the crank pulley). The harmonic balancer also has a slot cut in it so that you can line the crank up with the mark on the timing cover. The mark on the timing cover should sit at the 2 o'clock position or the 12 o'clock position. My 96 Chevy 305 is at the 2 o'clock position.

There are a couple possibilities. First, the lockup torque converter could be stuck. It could be as simple as a faulty relay or it could be the torque converter itself. Second, it could be that the engine is not producing enough power to keep running when it's put into gear. For example, it could be idling fast because of a vacuum leak, but not really producing much power. When the transmission is engaged it could put enough power demands on the engine that it can't keep going.

5000 rpm

A 1987 Chevy Caprice Classic with the original engine does have a carb and the engine is a 305, because I have one. This can have a 307. I have an 87 Caprice Estate Wagon, with a 5.0 liter 307 olds. Which, is actually for sale.

Rewiring what?

on a carb engine the fuel filter is on the front of the carb. follow the 3.8 line from the fuel pump (lower pass side) it will come up to the carb and there will be a 5/8" threaded end on it. loosen the tube nut and threaded into the carb there will be a 1" fitting loosen and remove it from the carb and along with asmall amount of fuel the filter will fall out.

ON LATER MODELS LOOK AT THE REAR OF THE BLOCK NEAR THE DISTRIBUTOR AND IT WILL HAVE 5.0 OF 5.7 CAST INTO THE BLOCK

Do you mean to change just 1/2 of a main bearing, the one that is easily removeable from the main cap? That's not something you want to do. If you're looking for a way to change the bearings without pulling everything apart there is a special tool made called (believe it or not) a "Sneaky Pete." I know the tool company Lisle makes the tool.

answers vary, but factory specs are best... ...everyone should have a manual for their vehicle(parts store or dealer), and a local library should have professional shop manuals available in the REFERENCE section for free...make copies of the appropriate sections...read up and good luck :) With the new pushrods in place, and the rockers loosely in place, and the #1 piston up for compression (both valves closed), tighten the rocker nuts until there is 0 lash (no up and down pushrod movement) plus 1/2 turn on intake #'s 1,2,5 & 7 and exhaust #'s 1,3,4 & 8. Rotate the balancer one revolution to bring #6 piston up for compression and repeat the process on the remaining valves. This assumes hydraulic lifters. Solid lifters can use the same process except putting in cam manufacturers lash specification instead of using 0 lash and no 1/2 turn preload.

OK This is going to be tuff without a picture but here goes. There should be three rows of head bolts running from the front to rear of the engine. One set of four bolts are located towards the top (or middle) of the engine, five bolts in the center and eight bolts at the bottom of the engine. Number the bolts as follows: top row left to right 13 5 2 10. middle row left to right 17 9 1 6 14 bottom row left to right 16 12 8 4 3 7 11 15 Tighten the bolts in order (1 2 3 etc)to 35-40 ft-pounds first then repeat the sequence two more times to 60-70 ft-lbs. Really do tighten the bolts to the final level twice to be sure that all stress is relieved. This set up works for both the drivers side and the passengers side, don't sweat which side you are on.

Have you loosened the retaining bolt? That is the bolt that holds the distributor in place.

45 Lb/ft Below is a link to all small block Chevy torque specs.

Use The Factory Size That Came With The Heads. It May Be To Your Best Interest To Buy New Ones. You Can Get Them At Your Dealer, Unless You Have Something There Is No Dealer Ship Here

Per Champion spark plug applications chart, the gap for 1989 Chevy 305 (5.0L) is .035.

http://www.edmunds.com/insideline/do/Features/articleId=66170 Edmunds.com says it CAN NOT be an RS: "So that brake light blister was gone entirely from the 1988 Camaro, but so was the Z28. Since Chevy had firmly established the IROC name, all high-performance '88 Camaros became IROCs. Base '88 Camaros, meanwhile, inherited the elegant 15-inch five-spoke wheels from the Z28, as well as the Z28's lower body skirting. Also, the Z28's 5.0-liter V8 was now optional on the sport coupe; it gained a throttle body fuel-injection system to make 170 horsepower. The rarest and most intriguing '88 Camaro was the 1LE road racing package optional on the IROCs with both the 5.0- and 5.7-liter TPI engines. Featuring oversize disc brakes, an aluminum driveshaft and a well-tweaked suspension, the 1LE was built to win showroom stock road races." The Camaro base model would not have come from the factory with lower body skirting. It would not have come from the factory with driving lights and wiring for driving lights. It would not come with "Z28" badges. All these items could be added, but it would be more expensive than buying a Z28. So if you have them all, and most importantly, the driving lights wiring looks stock...odds are it's a Z28.

on the back of the throttle body or intake port.