Chevy 305

depends how many k engine wear and efi or carb simple way to test is take it to a dyno. i have a 1988 firebird with a 305 efi and it has 230hp

1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 same as the firing order

You need to be more specific on your question, add a little detail to it.

8

you will need to swap intakes too. or i think someone might make adapter plates for the throttle body but im not sure.

timing chain is inside the timing chain cover which is located between block and water pump. the water pump mounts to the front of timing case There is a cover that is behind the water pump... The timing chain is under that cover.

65 ftlbs

350, to 400lbs.

LE9 Years: 1981-1986 The LE9 5 L (305 cu in) was the truck/van version of the High Output 305. It also had flattop pistons for a 9.5:1 compression ratio, the "929" truck 350 camshaft for more torque, 14022601 casting heads featuring 1.84/1.50" valves and 53 cc chambers, a specially calibrated 4bbl Q-Jet, the hybrid centrifugal/vacuum advance distributor with ESC knock sensor setup, and lower restriction exhaust. The engine made 210 hp (157 kW) @ 4,600 and 250 lb·ft (339 N·m) @ 2,000 rpm. Added by Goofyfoot: Although I believe this quote from Wikipedia is incorrect on the LE9's hp b/c it was a detuned version of the H.O. carburated engine which was rated at 190 hp, it is academic since the LB9 TPI (tuned-port injection) had 215 hp and 275 lb·ft of torque (with a manual, the auto was rated lower. If memory serves me, it was 205 or 210 hp). It was optional in the 85-92 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 and RS and the Pontiac Trans Am, although certain years apparently had the lower ratings of the standard H.O. carburated engine (that's probably only with an auto trans). However, if you live in SoCal and plan on modifying the engine, there was an aftermarket kit available (I believe from Edelbrock) for the carburated H.O. engine which is C.A.R.B. approved and will allow you to pass the smog test w/o any problems. I don't know if it is still available. Again, if you are in SoCal, the LE9 truck engine would not be legal to swap into a car. There are various pieces for the TPI engines which are C.A.R.B. approved but not a kit engineered to work together. This is the reason people in SoCal tend to swap in later model LT1 and newer 350s. I don't know about the smog restrictions in other states.

Installing a distributor in a motor isn't tough if one thinks it through and works with some patience. Here's a generic recipe for most all motors. First, the motor should be at top dead center (tdc) in the number one cylinder. How do you know if it is or how can that be accomplished? Pull all the plugs so the engine can be turned over by hand. It's a pain and it's dangerous to bump the starter over and try to locate the tdc unless you're a mechanic. (Don't shortcut this. The people who take a shortcut fall into two categories: mechanics and fools.) With all the plugs out, turn (or get some help turning) the engine over (with the key "off") and hold a finger in the spark plug hole for number one cylinder while doing so. Just kinda stick it in there. You're not trying to block the hole completely; you're just looking for pressure. Remember that you're dealing with a 4-cycle engine. There are two upstrokes of the piston in one complete cycle, and only one of these leads to tdc on the compression stroke. (The other upstorke is the exhaust stroke and with the exhaust valve open, the upstorke won't result in your feeling any pressure with your finger in the plug hole.) What you're looking for with your finger is pressure in number one cylinder. Got it? As the engine is turned over, pressure will push air out of the spark plug hole past your finger. You're on the compression stroke now, right where you want to be. Now the hard part. Where is top dead center? Some folks use a piece of coat hanger to find it by sticking it in the plug hole and gently turning the engine one way or another to actually find the top. Use a piece of coat hanger about a foot long. It won't break off and fall in the cylinder like a stick or pencil will. You been warned, ait? You've found tdc. Now to make the distributor point to number one. Grab your distributor and take off the cap. Make sure you know absolutely where number one wire goes on the cap, because you'll need this information. Double check your findings to be sure. You're going to be installing the distributor with the cap off, but you need to line it up first. Look at the rotor and turn it to orient it so it points to where number one plug wire would be plugged into the cap. It's important to get this right. The engine is at tdc on number one's compression stroke, and the rotor in the distributor must be pointing to number one's plug wire connection on the distributor cap. Make sense? Think this through and it'll lock in. After finding the direction the rotor must point to be lined up on number one, put some tape there and mark with a marker to identify it fairly accurately. This way you can work with the cap off and look directly at the rotor to get it right. You'll need to. With an indexed distributor shaft drive, there is an offset slot into which the shaft of the distributor fits and it can only be put in one way. With the old gear type, a guy wrenching the thing might have to pull the distributor half way out and slip it back in to move it over a tooth on the gear. When properly installed, the distributor rotor will be pointing to where number one plug wire is on the cap. Number one piston is at tdc and in the firing position, and the distributor will be ready to fire it. Work safely at all times. Thinking things through and the application of a bit of patience is the key to success. Take a break and have a cup of coffee or a soda as needed to recover calm and think the project through. Save the beer for after the job is done. As always, good luck.

Have an AC shop evacuate the system. Some shops will recharge the system after repairs and not charge for refrigerant, they just give you yours back.

(305 displacement x 5250 rpm) divided by 3456 = 463 cfm carburetor 500 cfm x 3456 divided by 305 = 5666 rpm I would say if you are just using the engine for the street, a 500 cfm carburetor is more than enough. Perhaps an edelbrock with an electric choke would work nicely. The carburetor is only supplying the fuel. A longer duration cam, say around 200 degrees at .050 might perk up the engine a little and still let you run vacuum for brakes and automatic transmission. You would just have to read what others have done and look at performance parts companys online and see what people say.

supercharger.

Control Unit

make sure that the engine cam is in correct position .make sure that pump lever is going into correct position

im not sure if leaver goes under or over cam,but whichever make sure it is correct

I need a VACUUM diagram for a 1981 Silverado utility (aka pickup) truck.

I have tried ALL the solutions suggested here over the past 3-4 years with NO luck at all. I can find the 1980 and the 1982 vacuum diagrams, but the 1981 is significantly different and I can not find it anywhere, including through two Chevy dealerships. I have my vacuum systems working fine. I have traced out the existing 5 lines (one, by the right door, branches to 2 components) and made a drawing of the vacuum system. BUT I wish to install the vacuum operated valve that controls the hot water to the Heater. The last possible outlet on the silicone manifold on the rear of the A/C- Heater control Valve in the Dash has a factory blank for the 6th possible outlet (no hole through the factory molded part) and punching / cutting it through to TEST whether that is it or not could ruin this whole (very small) manifold. I have found two drawings, supposedly for the 1981 305 (my original engine), but it had a 1978-79 engine when I bought it). Neither drawing comes close to my engine cmpartment and the factory components therein. = Murphy's Law !

New info (?) as of 13 May 2011 - I have been told the '81 Silverado did NOT have a vacuum operated hot water control valve. A flapper in the under-dash ducting allowed or blocked the hot water heated air to flow (pretty undependable if true). Anyone out there know which is the case?

I have tried the Library, dealerships, repair shops, on-line, etc. and the manuals, et al, do not cover the vacuum system for my year. NO SOURCE anywhere shows this one year, 1981, which is different from the '80 & '82 or any others I did find.

inner main caps 70 ft. lbs, outer main caps 65 ft. connecting rod torques are 45 ft. lbs (caps)

You can line them up either way one way #6 is top center cam is at 6 oclock 12oclock # 1 is top center if you put the marks together your probally gonna get your distributor in 180 off

Trust me here. if you put the crank at 12 o clock witch is correct (key-way stright up) and you put the cam gear at 12o'clock witch is wrong it will not even try to start and you will be taking it back apart I promise. the reason is the #1 intake and exhaust lobes on the cam will be in a different place so when the #1 piston is at TDC the cam lobes for #1 cylinder or in a different position so #1 cylinder won't fire because cam and crank are not in time with each other. IF the key way in the crank is stright up then the gear on crank (dot) will be stright up then turn cam gear were the dot is at 6 0'clock that makes both dots stright over top of each other that will be correct. put engine back toghter it will run .

it has always been dot to dot but do not trust the dots. you need to put a degree wheel on the cam for the most accurate timing

WARNING: When the key way on the crank is straight up (12 o'clock) the crank gear timing mark is NOT at the same position (12 o'clock) on any SBC gear set I have seen, making the above instructions meaningless.

RESPONSE TO WARNING: what we have here is a failure to listen or someone only telling you half the story. when you install the cam and crank gears you line them up dot to dot. this gets you the closest to the manufacturer's specs without a degree wheel. once you have the gears and the chain in place, you rotate the engine until both dots are straight up. get a buddy to hold his finger on the number one spark plug hole with the plug removed, rotate the crank, when he gets air escaping past his finger, rotate the dots so that they are at 12 o'clock. this should be tdc for number one. adjust your distributor accordingly. once you get the motor to start up you then can put a timing light to it and adjust your timing more specifically.

WARNING 2: Not all timing chain sets are set up the same! Many after market sets, and most all racing sets have several keyways. You must bring engine to TDC for #1 cylinder (both valves closed and #1 piston at top) before taking the timing set off to make sure you have the right positioning on both cam and crank.

Unbolt the fittings on the hoses off the metal tubes on the exhaust manifolds and the tube on the right side of the engine running to the cat. Use one of the hoses and two of the stock fittings to connect the right manifold to the cat's tube to close it off. On the driver's side, just cut the hose with a fitting on one end to about 4 inches long, shove a big bolt in the open end, and secure it with a hose clamp. Now unbolt the control valve(s) assembly attached to the right side of the engine (the black box with hoses, wires, and tubes running to it). You can leave the wires from it detached, the ECU won't care, just tie them up so the don't get snagged on anything, but make sure you cap off the vacuum hose! The engine light may come on, but at least you know what it is. The air pump that drives the whole nightmare is down on the right side of the engine and has it's own belt, so it can be romved without consequence or modifaction, just take off it's belt and unbolt it. It's a pain to take off the brackets, so just leave them alone, they wont get in the way of anything, but you can if you must. I drove my 87 Caprice for about 8 months with this setup and never had a problem with it. Don't be tempted to mess with the PCV tube on the right valve cover, you're just likely to break the frail gromet and make a big oily mess when you start the car (Trust me). Good luck and enjoy your extra power! Unbolt the fittings on the hoses off the metal tubes on the exhaust manifolds and the tube on the right side of the engine running to the cat. Use one of the hoses and two of the stock fittings to connect the right manifold to the cat's tube to close it off. On the driver's side, just cut the hose with a fitting on one end to about 4 inches long, shove a big bolt in the open end, and secure it with a hose clamp. Now unbolt the control valve(s) assembly attached to the right side of the engine (the black box with hoses, wires, and tubes running to it). You can leave the wires from it detached, the ECU won't care, just tie them up so the don't get snagged on anything, but make sure you cap off the vacuum hose! The engine light may come on, but at least you know what it is. The air pump that drives the whole nightmare is down on the right side of the engine and has it's own belt, so it can be romved without consequence or modifaction, just take off it's belt and unbolt it. It's a pain to take off the brackets, so just leave them alone, they wont get in the way of anything, but you can if you must. I drove my 87 Caprice for about 8 months with this setup and never had a problem with it. Don't be tempted to mess with the PCV tube on the right valve cover, you're just likely to break the frail gromet and make a big oily mess when you start the car (Trust me). Good luck and enjoy your extra power! XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX REVISED ANSWER PLEASE TAKE NOTE TO THIS ANSWER !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! This question can not be answered in this forum as it is an illegal act. The Federal Government mandates that the emission system on an automobile is Not to be altered or removed from a vehicle and is punishable with a fine or imprisonment.

if ur lucky it may have came stock with camel hump heads with 10.2 compression and it will purr....

Un-Hook battery-

Unhook wires off old starter. (should be 3 wires ) some are 4 If unable to access wires take starter off first and then take off wires,

Unbolt starter- will slide forward towards front of vechicle- and replace new starter everything vise-versa-- Don't worry because their is No way to put it in wrong because it will only GO in (1) way.. Note: U may want to mark your wires- so that you know where to place them when you put the new starter in.

Try changing the oxygen sensor.

Legal? No,it is not legal to remove the emissions system from any vehicle. You may very well do it and not get caught, unless you live in a state with emissions tests.

200 000-300 000 miles, then cross your fingers...

of course the better the maintenance the longer it will last

First make sure that the air filter is clean. If that is good then the carburetor is dirty. It is getting enough fuel to start, but isn't able to deliver the amount necessary to keep it running. The carb needs a good cleaning. The best way is to take it off of the mower and take off the float bowl and use a carb cleaner to spray it out really good. Also you need to get a really thin piece of wire and clean out the passages of the carb. I hope this helps.