Chevy Camaro Z28

Yes it does work. However you will also need to use the 22 lb injectors for the 350. To get the full benefits from the upgrade you should get a 350 chip burned. The computers are the same but the chips are different. This is all considering if the swap is for a lb9 (305) to a l98 (350).

try mortec.com

Park the vehicle on a level surface. Drain the oil and change the filter. Pour in 4.5 quarts of oil, and start the engine. Run for 30 seconds and shut down. Wait 30 minutes and check the oil level. Add as necessary to fill it to the full mark. Do Not Overfill. You now know the capacity.

350...383 is a stroker motor, a 350 with a 400 crank and cam which increases the stroke and adds .3 liters of displacement.

yes but there is alot of modifications i would do it the intakes will not swap but i guss someone sells one

Gm does not use inertia switches.

5 quarts

Henrey Ford!

It feels amazing

190 hp

Yes, But you may have to modify the driveshaft and crossmember.

Aftermarket springs and shocks. SLP and Eibach, for example, or Hotchkiss. Need to change both the springs and shocks as a unit.

Tune port injection--- TPI.

its on the front of engine it holds the cam sprocket from spinning so if you pull off the sprocket you will see it hope this helps

check your ignition module it send pulses to ecm to tell it to pulsate the injectors

This will take 2 people. Take the #1 plug out, That will be the first plug up front on the drivers side head. Now unhook the coil wire from the coil so it won't start.

Then put your helper in the truck so he can bump the engine over with the key when you tell him. Now put your finger over the #1 plug hole and tell helper to bump the key a little at a time until you feel air blow out from under your finger and then stop blowing. As the piston is moving up and down in the cylinder you will fill it suck on your finger and then start to blow out from under your finger, as soon as it stops blowing out then that will be the compression stroke and top dead center.

It may take a few times of bumping engine over until you get the fill of it and get it right. When it's right the mark on the balancer will be at 0 on the timing mark.

And the distributor rotor will be pointin to the #1 post on the cap and at #1 cylinder.

drain coolant. disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses of the heater core on the engine side of the firewall. (passenger side). remove heater core pipe clamp-bolt and clamp. from inside, remove the glove box(open it, squeeze sides in then pull ouit,remove hinge screws) for access to the upper core cover screw.below the glove boz, remove the dash insullating panel to access lower screw.remove evaporator temp sensor wiring clip from heater core cover if equipped with A/C. remove heater core cover,clamp bolt and clamp then slide out heater core. install is reverse.

Yes but the other way around steam holes need to be drilled out

The old Chevy 350-350HP cam and 73-74 L82 GM cam , medium lift , reliable cam profile

Everyone is entitled to their opinion, and mine is that you should contact the cam manufacturer of your choice for a recomendation. They can give you a cam that is ideally suited to your needs.

255 hp stock with a 4 barrell

sounds like a timing issue. set the timing

As a class of car, the GM Third Gen ('82-'92 Camaros and Firebirds (all models)) is very common still. Despite the fact that many of them are 20 years and older, I see five or ten every day in Portland.

With any used car the question of whether a specific car is a 'good car' depends on the care and condition the car has received from prior owners.

The car is big enough to be comfortable for most people, simple and easy to service, inexpensive to purchase and maintain and sturdily built.

To make an abrupt, sharp sound, as in the collision of two hard surfaces

it should be 1000 rpm

Take the gas tank down and change it out.