Construction Tools

Generally, blades have more teeth closer together the harder the material gets. Soft wood blades have as few as 3 teeth per inch. Hardwood and laminate blades have 10 or more smaller teeth per inch. Hacksaw blades for hard metals may have 32 teeth per inch.

A Tenon Saw is the most used kind of backsaw (a saw with a piece of stiff brass or steel running along the top edge). It is a medium sized saw and originally obtained its name from its use in cutting tenons for mortise and tenon joints in woodwork. The stiff piece of metal along the top of the blade (like all backsaws) helps prevent the blade from bending during use and the added weight adds another level of control to the saw.

There are many different hammers and all are suited to a particular job. I have at least 8 totally different hammers and there are lots more. They are suited by different shaped heads, different materials and different length and style of handles. Look in big tool store and you will see at least 10 radically different ones.

rip

cross cut

cut curves

cut circles

Positive

Negative

Neutral

Time Out

1999 - That is the date my father put on his manual when he bought it.

A 10 cm hole is almost 4 inches ! ! - IF you meant 10mm, then that's a little over 3/8 of an inch, or 13/32 for a clearance hole.

I believe on that model the chuck would be a Morse taper fit. To remove it, extend the chuck spindle to it's lowest position and use a metal hammer to tap firmly ONCE on the top of the chuck. It should drop free. Make sure your new chuck is the same and clean the inside of the taper and the arbor taper with alcohol (NOT rubbing alcohol, -99 % alcohol) Then fit the dry chuck onto the arbor for a test fitting. If it slides on easily, raise the arbor to the top and line up the chuck with spindle, retract the jaws and tap once with a steel hammer upwards on the base of the chuck. It should seat on firmly and you are ready to drill.

13

For coarse threads (13 threads per inch) use a 27/64 drill

its quite confusing best buying one unless you have the blueprints

Today, twist drills are made on computerized grinders

Go back pre computers - picture a horizontal mill/grinder with a wheel the thickness of the flute spinning

The table of the mill is set so the the wheel sits at the angle of the flute, and the drill blank is in a rotary fixture on the table, so that when the table is moved (in what is called the X axis) the drill blank rotates at the appropriate rate

You lower the wheel a .001 or so, traverse the table, and repeat - either between passes, or at the end, index the blank 180 degs to do both flutes, OR in a production setting (aka you're a drill bit company), your grinder will actually have two wheels, with the wheels offset to the table, but the bit still rotates as the table traverses, so you gring BOTH sides of the bit at once

There is no definite date on that, but tenon saws have been used for at least 200 years just the way we see them now.

Depends on the chuck. Adjustable chucks can be loosened by hand, simply twist the end of the drill. Older (or heavy duty drills) need a key to open the drill chuck. I have a McKeller cordless 18V electric drill with no hand adjustable or key adjustment visable???? I'm confused

The lever class of a hammer depends upon its use. If the hammer is used as a claw to remove a nail, it is a first class lever. When the hammer is used to strike a nail, it is a third class lever. There are three classes of levers. The difference between the classes lies in the position of the load, the effort and the fulcrum. When the fulcrum is between the load and effort, the object is a first class lever. If the load is between the fulcrum and effort, the object is a second class lever. A third class lever places the effort between the load and the fulcrum.

Wood chisels come in many different sizes or shapes. Each size/shape serves a very particular function. Some of these incluce; Butt, Carving, Corner, Bevel edge, Flooring, Framing, Slick, and Mortis.

A regular drill just has a transmission to allow drilling in forward or reverse gear. A hammer drill has a rotary piston or a special clutch, both of which do basically the same job of moving the drill shaft in and out while spinning. Almost every drill make has it's own proprietary method of doing this. This action is necessary for drilling masonry and concrete.

Carpet is made on a big machine that threads the fibres together by weaving them in and out all along the width of the machine. As it goes up and down the machine rolls it up onto a plastic or cardboard tube.

High Speed refers to the type of steel alloy used to make the drill bit. This is an air hardening steel (high speed cooling) the hardness should not be affected if the bit is heated (even to redhot ) and allowed to cool in air.

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I would put the cushion on a flat surface laid on an expendable piece of wood, then place another piece of wood over the top of the cushion, weight it down then use a drill bit that is similar to the ones linked below. The finer the tooth of the bit, the better. Don't be in a hurry! Use a masonry bits (the least expensive.) Note: the picture below shows Diamond bits, but masonry versions are similar, available at any "big box" hardware store.

A jig saw is used mainly in carpentry for cutting lumber in ways or patterns that require tight turns or intricate designs. Example: to cut out a hole for a sink basin in a counter-top you need a jig-saw to be able to cut those rounded corners that will contour with the sink basin.

This is called friction. Moving an object in a very tight space generates heat.

A circular saw won't cut wet wood as well as it will dry wood but, it will cut. Avoid using a fine-tooth blade because it will tend to load and bind. Take a break from time-to-time to clean out the teeth. A brass detailing brush (looks like a toothbrush) will do a good job for cleaning the teeth.

I have no idea how old this question is, but I'm going to post an answer regardless!! If the motor starts up slow, or even runs at a low RPM, it's probably the swith on the motor that kicks in the capacotor start. It's located on the accessory end of the shaft. As the motor speeds up, the points on the switch break and the capacitor kicks off. The switch is screwed to the motor frame, and will pop apart to get to the points and clean them. This will usually correct the problem. You'll have to take the plastic cover off the motor to get to it.