If you spend enough money at it, you can turbo pretty much any combustion engine. But in terms of economy, it's often more sensible to buy a car with the engine set-up that you want already in it.

check egr valve

The gas tank on the 2009 Dodge Avenger holds 16.9 gal..

The 2014 Dodge Avenger's engine produces 173 hp @ 6000 rpm.

depends on which motor you have-4 cyl should be in the intake manifold-v-6 should be in the air snorkle tube coming from air filter housing

You still might want to look at the crank and cam sensors, verify first that you have spark by observing one of the spark plugs removed from the block and grounded against the block while you crank, if you have spark you may be able to eliminate that aspect, verify fuel pressure at the manifold also. you did a good job of eliminating fuel and spark as the culprit, but those steps might finish the job, what's left? Air, check the throttle plate and idle sensors, also the maf for detection of air flow.

It is a magnet that puts your engine back in the correct position once you turn your vehicle off so it will starrt again,I've had this problem twice..

GOOD LUCK WITH THIS ONE,ITS A REAL TUFF JOB IF YOU DONT HAVE THE PROPER EQUIPMENT BUT IT CAN BE DONE IF YOUR A GOOD BACKYARD MECHANIC. FIRST OF ALL JACK THE CAR UP AND REMOVE THE PASSENGER SIDE TIRE , PUT JACK STAND UNDER THAT SIDE. UNBOLT THE AIR POLUTION PUMP FROM THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE AND PULL AWAY BUT DONT DISCONECT. UNBOLT AND REMOVE THE SIDE ENGINE MOUNT, THIS IS WHERE IT GETS HARD. PUT A JACK UNDER THE ENGINE AND JACK IT UP AS HIGH AS YOU CAN GET IT THE WIGGLE THE ENGINE MOUNT AND BOLTS OUT, THEY WILL COME BUT NOT EASILY. NOW GO AND RENT A CRANK SHAFT PULLY PULLER OR HARMONIC SINCRONISER , GO TO AUTO ZONE YOU PUT A DEPOSIT DOWN AND GET IT ALL BACK. PULL OFF THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY AND REACH UP BEHIND THE ALTERNATOR AND LOSEN THE TENSION BOLT , THIS ONE IS FUN TO BUT AGAIN IT CAN BE DONE. REMOVE THE ALTERNATOR AND AIR CONDITIONING BELTS FROM THE PULLY THEN POP IT OFF. NOW REMOVE THE PLASTIC SHROUD, TWO BOLTS ON BOTTOM . YOU CAN SEE THE WATER PUMP NOW BUT IT LOOKS LIKE THE REAR SHOUD ALSO HAS TO BE REMOVED. FORGET IT , JUST CACK ENOUGH OF IT AWAY SO YOU CAN GET OUT ALL THE BOLTS. THERE YA GO, NOW PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, AND MAKE DAM SURE YOU HAVE THE CRANK SHAFT PULLY TIGHTENED DOWN AS FAR AS IT WILL GO OTHERWISE THE BELTS WILL SLIP OFF. YOU WILL PROBABLY JACK UP AND LET DOWN THE ENGINE AS FAR AS IT WILL GO SEVERAL TIMES BEFORE YOUR DONE.

look directly under the air intake hose as it attaches to the carburator. Directly below it is the distributor. Directly below that is the crankshaft position sensor. Its a small plug with a connector on it entering the engine. When I pulled mine off the insulator that attaches to the end was gone. It cost around 70$ to buy.

Happened on my 97 avenger. On one occasion, it was the ASD Automatic Shut Down relay. Located on the firewall, right beside the brake fluid reservoir. Middle relay of the three, I think. After repairing this, I had the same problem a year later, as my car died on the highway doing 70 mph. The problem this time was the distributor. I think the distributor is more likely as I have found it to be a common problem in the Avenger. (The distributor develops a short internally)

The 2009 Dodge Avenger's engine produces 166 ft-lbs. @ 4400 rpm.

The curb weight of the 2014 Dodge Avenger is 3400 lbs..

The 2014 Dodge Avenger's engine produces 166 ft-lbs. @ 4400 rpm.

It looks like a little yellow engine.

It does not have a distributor.

diagnostic code 72 means the catalitic converter efficiency is below the required level.

1-2-3-4-5-6

I have a 98 Avenger and right after i bought is when my alarm went off ... (Ididn't even know there was an alarm....) I finally disarmed it by putting the key in the drivers door lock and unlocking it. Good Luck!

You will need the following tools, 14mm socket and ratchet and or a 14 mm wrench and brass hammer or cheater bar, and a slide hammer axle puller, a midium size c-clamp or caliper compression tool and a torque wrench and finally the torque specification for the fastners on the rear axles,these include the hub to steering knuckle, brake caliper to mounting plate and the wheel lug nut specifications. Well first off on my Avenger the bearing is part of the hub and mounting bracket assembly and can not be purchased except as that assembly for safety reasons the bearing is swaged and then the edges of the bracket are rolled into the bracket assembly and then the bearing preload is set for the hub by an adjustment nut on the rear of the hub( DO NOT ADJUST THIS NUT ), to change the hub assembly was pretty striaght forward, First place the rear of the car on jack stands in a level place and check to see that the car is secure. Next remove the wheel Next remove the brake caliper it is held in place by two 14mm bolts inserted from the rear side. Next compress the claiper either with the c-clamp or the compression tool, set the caliper out of the way and secure it so that it does not hang by the brake hose, if not you might get lucky and nothing happen if you not lucky you will end up replacing the hose also. Next remove and set aside the two brake pads. Next remove and set aside the brake rotor, this should expose the emergency brake , it is not required to remove any of this unit Next remove the four 14 mm bolts from the rear of the suspension knuckle that thread into the back of the hub. the hub and braket assembly is in tight but not pressed in, stall the axle puller and using the slide hammer pull the hub outward. depending on rust the brake backing plate may come off with the hub assembly if it does turn it over and hit the center of the hub a few time with the brass hammer and it will pop out, note if you use a steel hammer and pun over the edge of the hub, you will have a lot of problems getting it off the backing plate. to install reverse the above, insure that you have a torque wrench and tighten all fastners back to factory specifications.

Jack up the car, install jack stands. remove the wheel / tire assembly. Remove the brake caliper from the spindle assembly (probably held on with two bolts). Tie the caliper to the fenderwell with safety wire or a coat hanger, DON'T LET IT HANG BY THE HOSE. Then the rotor should pull right off. If you're going this far, check your brake pads for wear, and perhaps install new pads. Get your rotors turned too. You'll have to compress the piston in the caliper before you can install the new pads. You'll need a C-clamp to compress the piston, and a plastic syringe to remove SOME brake fluid from the reservoir because you're pushing fluid back into the reservoir. Otherwise it will leak all over. Installation is the reverse of removal. Tighten all hardware to OEM specifications, check for leaks, and you're on your way. Your brakes may feel different for awhile, give it 500 miles for the pads to wear in to the newly finished discs. Just make sure your brake pedal doesn't feel spongy and has firm pressure without going to the floor.

sounds like your torque converter is going out. If you need to build up revs to get the torque converter to pump enough fluid to pressurize the gears, your converter may be going out. Once you gets enough pressure, that is when you get the "kick" in gears.

its prolly the egr valve that's why mine did it expect to pay around $320 for it that's how much it cost me including labor

Also check the distributor cap for very small cracks, use bright flashlight. After I replaced my EGR valve I still had the problem until I found some hairline cracks in the cap.

Also, Check the IAC operation. (I had the same problem with the hesitation during acceleration. It was really bad with the A/C on... I took the intake off and sprayed some Card Cleaner into the IAC and cleaned off the throttle plate with a wire brush worked fine until it clogs up again..)

Thanks. I had thought about the EGR but it turned out to be hairline cracks in the distributor cap. Simple replacement of the cap and the car runs great.

Yes, If the timing is not right on. The pistons will bend your valves.

if you have the box with the digital miles try turning to key from off to on 3 times and on the 3rd turn keep it on and it should show. if not, refer to the vehicle manual. it should tell you in there.

There isn't an oil pump relay. The oil pump is driven by the crankshaft.