Dog Training

You first hide a small treat in your hand then you touch his/her paw with the hand that has the treat then lay your hand down and the dog will start touching your hand back only give the treat when he/she does touch your hand.Please be patience this is a hard one for them to learn.

Gravity maybe?

There are many places one might purchase an egg crate foam. In addition to checking the online discount retailer, Amazon, one might also try a local furniture store.

It depends on how smart the puppy is and how good the trainer is. If it already knows the basic commands, then go for it.

Yes soft, comfortable fleece dog harnesses. The fleece harnesses at the links below have a front ring as well as a ring on the back and they can be used as an anti-pull harness to train your dog not to pull, in much the same way as the Easy Walker. Equally they can be used as a walking harness with the lead attached to the back ring and the front ring could be used for ID tags.

Well i have a 3 year old dog named Jasper (male). But we potty trained him at 1, The way we did it was just basicly let them do it themselves. when Jasper went inside we lightly hit him on the nose. When he went outside we praised him and gave him a small treat. after 2 weeks he rarely went inside, after 2 MORE weeks he never went inside so it took us almost a month of that and when they are potty trained youll be able to move onto fun things. Like my dog (after potty training) we taught him: sit, fetch, lay down, roll over, stay, paw, other paw, and play dead.

you can send your German Shepard to police friend if you have a friend on the force but make sure its legal with the law by checking with them. also toughen your dog up by getting them healthy. growl at your dog and teach them how to hunt. point at something you don't like and say attack.

Puppy nipping is natural so there is absolutely no need to punish. Do not pinch the lips or hold the snout closed, and please do not hit your puppy. When your puppy bites, slowly remove your hand and swap it with a toy or other item that can safely be chewed. Puppies grow out of the nipping/biting stage as they get older.

well what i did with my dog is when you go out lock him/her in an small area or give him/her a chewy toy that is really hard to rip.

Depending on the situation, there are a few things you could do.

If your dog gets out of the fence, for example, and is gone for a few hours, you shouldn't do anything aside from reinforce your fence or keep them in a kennel when unattended. Do NOT scold your dog for coming back. They won't understand what they're being scolded for and you want them to associate you with good things.

If your dog takes off and then comes back after a few minutes (at the park, etc), keep a few treats in your pocket, call to them (be upbeat!) and when they come back, reward them.

Dogs have a very short attention span for the most part, and if you can't correct something within about 1 minute of the act happening, they won't understand what they did wrong.

It's up to you, the owner, to make sure that your dog can't get out when unattended. And as for training when you are watching - try a long leash (like a lunge line for horses), take them out in a secure area and let them run. Call them back in an upbeat manner (you do not want their name to be taken as a disciplinary technique), and reward them when they come - Repeat, repeat, repeat!

TRACKING THEORY Almost every dog can learn tracking, when the correct method is used. A Schutzhund competition is usually won (or lost) already in the first exercise...Tracking! Therefore, you can understand the importance of this exercise.... Here follows the best "Step by Step" theory. The only thing that you need is a dog that likes to eat! WHAT YOU NEED A bag (to put all your tracking stuff in), a line of ±3 meter, cheese or meat (soft meat that can be eaten very fast) cut this into ±50 cubes of 1cm in size. THE FIRST LESSONS You can start with a puppy that is used to his chain. The little dog will be 3 or 4 months old. Important: Always make sure that the dog is hungry, with a full stomach he has no reason to track! The best tracking conditions are no wind, fresh green grass of ±10cm height, not too hot, not too cold and in the early morning. You always lay the track without the presence of your dog and wait minimum 15 minutes before you get him. FIRST LESSON You take the closed plastic pot that contains the small pieces of cheese or flesh. You step a circle of ±1 m Ø, one-step against the other and you throw the bits everywhere in this circle (Fig A). Then you go and wash your hands (the dog may not make the connection of your hands and the rewards) or at least clean them well with grass. After 15 minutes you get your dog and show him with your hand (the palm of your hand up, otherwise the dog may think the bits are coming out of your hand!) where to search. If the dog is searching with a deep nose on the right place, you say nothing! When the dog puts his head up, or does not look in the right place you show him with your hand the right place and say "Track". Let the puppy eat the rewards as much as possible and then leave the field by telling him he has done well. You do not let him search before he enters the track or after leaving the track! Practice this training two or 3 times after each other, until the puppy understands the word "Track" (associates the word to following the track and finding the rewards). FURTHER LESSONS Take the tracking flag and plastic pot with the cheese or/and flesh bits. Put the tracking flag always on the left side of the beginning of the track (Fig B.), with the flag pointing in the direction of the track. Always make a pre-start of ±2 meters before the flag. This means you step heavily two or three times, over and again on the same pre-track. Then you wait ±1 minute near the flag before starting the definitive track. Then you push the top of your left foot into the ground and pull this foot back ±3cm (now you have a little hole in the top of your footprint, where you put the reward bit in). You then put your right foot the same way into the ground and fill the hole with a bit. Do the rest of the track like this, within every footprint is a reward, between every step (reward) is a distance of ±30cm. The length of these first tracks should be ±8 meter. After 15 minutes you get the dog with his chain on and you put the line (just before the beginning of the pre-start) through his forelegs (not under his back legs). The reason for this is, when the dog pulls, he pulls his head to the ground. You come like this to the beginning of the pre-start and show with your hand (when necessary) the place to search and give the command "Track". When the dog is searching intensely you let him go in the right direction. However, always at your pace! When the dog comes near the flag, he will find the cheese in your footstep and eat his reward. After this one, he will find the next one and so on... He must eat every bit of his rewards (do not let him go too fast and forget footsteps). The dog is searching at your pace! As long as he is doing welt you say nothing. At the end of the track, he will find the closed pot that contains more rewards. When he has found this, you praise him and open his final reward. After eating, you leave the tracking field but do not let the dog pass his track again. When your dog searches intensely and eats all his rewards, you can make the track longer and put the reward only every three steps. When this is done, your dog will have to look in every footstep even when there is not a reward. When you have reached this stage, it is time to lay your bits at random in the footprints of the track. You can lay two or three tracks after each other, best is with every time other type of food rewards. REMINDERS Always track with a dog that is hungry! Always make a pre start! Always track with the wind in your back! Always wait 15 minutes! Always wash your hands after touching the rewards! Always put the closed pot at the end of the track! The dog has to search at your pace, look for every step and eat all his rewards! Do not train with objects or corners before he is tracking perfectly strait! Do not let the dog search before or after the track! Always take small steps! THE PREPARATION FOR SCHUTZHUND 1 In "Part 1", we have seen how to start with tracking. When your dog has reached the level to work out a straight track of about 70 meters, and still searches footprint-by-footprint it's time to begin with the first corner. IMPORTANT: In "tracking training", we always stay close to the first corner. We always do the same ritual: (as in Tracking Theory, Part 1) make a pre-start, Always make sure that the wind is in the back! The reason for this is that the smells of the footprints (and rewards) are not coming into the direction of the dog. By "wind in the back", you teach the dog to seek more intensely and to seek with a "deep nose". Now we put a track of about 50 meters straight ahead (with the needed rewards in the footprints) and at the end, we make a light, round corner. In this "corner", you put more rewards than on the straight, and directly after the "corner", place your plastic pot (Fig. C). When your dog has reached the level to work out a straight track perfectly, he will have no problems with this sort of corner. Therefore, after a few times training like this, you can make the curve smaller and smaller, until you have a real angle of 90 degrees, 3 meters after the angle you put the plastic pot with more rewards. On the first part of the track you lay the rewards at random (how many, is different from dog to dog) but then you mark the point of the angle, by turning 360 degrees, (on this point) and make the angle 90 degrees right or left. After 3 meters, you stop and place the plastic pot. Always make sure that you know exactly where the corner is! Never lay food on the angle point, but about 50cm directly after. The length, after the corner you can make longer, when you see that your "tracker" understands what you want from him. When the dog has difficulties with the angle, you can make it easier by marking your corner "double". This means when you are about 2 meters after the angle, you return on your steps till you are about 1 meter before the angle, and then go further again passing this (double) corner. (Fig. D) After a minimum of 15 to 30 minutes, you get your dog. Make sure that you always know exactly where the track is lying, this is very important! You start the track as usual but when coming on the corner, you stop when needed. Do not let the dog go wrong! At the corner, you stop, and when your dog takes the right direction, you follow immediately! You say nothing; the dog will find his first reward at about 50 cm and will praise himself. When the dog takes the wrong direction, you stay on your place and give the command "Track", when he goes on in the right direction you follow immediately! Do not' let the dog turn around several times. When he is off the track, stay at your place and give the command "Track" when he goes on the right track or direction, say nothing but follow. Now your dog has done one corner, so after several training sessions you can try two, and finally, three corners. Your result must be a track of three corners (in the Schutzhund 1 & 2 trial there are only two corners) of about 120 meters long. It is important that you are no further than 3 meters behind your dog, and that he can make his corners without your help. I am sure that I will have forgotten things, but tracking is a form of practical training that is very difficult to write in theory.

by giving it all the treats it wants and it wont bark for food and more

throw it away.

A silent whistle would be used to help train your dog to come. Because of the noise the the dogs hear, they will be drawn to you. Then you can say come and give them a treat and they will soon start associating the word come with actually come to you.

The best reason and the main reason that your dog is farting is because you are giving him a lot of human food and I've gone through this experience before and I stopped giving human food. Some of these foods would be the cause of his/hers farting: Cheese, eggs, tomatoes, bread, chicken, or other meats that you have cooked. Sometimes it can be that your dog has an upset stomach.

Probably about room temperature, 60-70 F. If the puppy starts panting or shivering, you'll know the temperature isn't right.

USE YOUR HANDS! When your dog is chewing etc you can pull him/her away and say uh-uh-uh! (Don't shout or say it cheerfully be cross and send him to another room) and don't let him out until 5 mins is up or if its worse like a bite or extreme damage send him to bed for 15 min.

Yes, they are trained. Usually at Fire Training Centers. I have been to one.

Absolutely, and can even be taught to go on your command. This is how i did it with taz my young border collie. Choose the area of the garden which is to be his loo. This is a peice of cake with a puppy simply because you have to take them outside so frequently to empty. Always lead them to the area to go. When they have done it in the right place make a big fuss, give a treat if you like. Then let the puppy go out on hs own (presumably you tell the dog "wee wee" or something - I use "Tazzytime!") and see if he has learnt - if he has a big fuss, well done, good boy and treat, every time. If not, never mind, keep at it - he will get it! Dogs might like to roll in other dogs poo, they generally don't like to roll in their own, so it benefits everyone to have a private space for his toilet. Now, with Tazzie, he was 16 months when I got him. When we go out, I always have the lead round my neck whilst we are walking/playing. He knows at the end of the walk when i remove the lead and say "walk over" that's exactly what I mean, but I also then say "Tazzytime" and if he needs to go he will - (this was achieved by catching him going and saying "tazzytime" again and again until he got it) (I know i have an advantage owning one of the most inteligent dogs in the world!)-and then he also knows when I say "bin" we have to visit the dog waste bin with his droppings - how? Just repeatedly tell him what you are doing every step of the way, again and again until he knows! Partly routine and partly being able to retain commands and names of objects learnt through repetition and reward. Good luck - never again will my parents come to look at my garden, step in a huge poo and tread it all over my house, their car, and then their own house! Update 1(sorry if there's repetative advice!) It might be hard if you have a large yard. When your dog poos where you don't want him/her to, calmly put him/her in a cage (if you have one) and remove the waste and put some where you want your dog to poo. This means the smell would stick here, and the dog would poo there the next time as well. If you do not have a cage, put him/her on his/her own in a dark room as a punishment, for a short while. Ignore any protests. And don't forget to give him/her a treat when s/he poos in the right spot!

not alot, remember they have small stomaches,

feed it maybe just a handful or two of puppy food, and only once or twice a day,

unless they show signs of hunger.

Simple: don't yell at your puppy. The fact that your puppy is peeing means you are overdoing it. Correct your dog firmly, but without yelling. Peeing is a sign of submission, and you are scaring your puppy.

Could be, but there are other possible explanations.
You should talk to the vet about it.

The Lhasa Apso is not suited for outdoor living, but they do benefit from daily outdoor exercise, such as a daily walk.

1:is your dog a puppy

If not then I would advise you to go and see a vet because your dog sounds like it might have a bug or something

hope I helped

The first Crate & Barrel store opened in Chicago, Illinois on December 7, 1962. The franchise has grown to over 170 stores with their headquarters based in Northbrook, Illinois.