Flooring

140

I would get advice from a professional. I suspect that the cement backed board (plaster board?) would crack and turn to powder under the flexing as people walk across the floor.

The cost to scrub and recoat VCT (Vinyl Composition Tile) flooring typically ranges from $0.50 to $1.50 per square foot, depending on factors such as the condition of the floor, local labor rates, and any additional services required. For an area over 8,000 square feet, you might consider pricing on the lower end for larger jobs, possibly around $0.75 to $1.00 per square foot, leading to a total cost of approximately $6,000 to $8,000. It's essential to evaluate the specific requirements of the job to provide an accurate estimate.

The amount of glue needed for installing engineered wood flooring can vary based on the specific product and method used. Generally, it takes about 1 to 2 gallons of adhesive for every 100 square feet of flooring. For 1600 square feet, you would need approximately 16 to 32 gallons of glue. It's always best to check the manufacturer's recommendations for the specific adhesive being used.

It is: 25 times 16.5 = 412.5 square feet

Yes it's possible. But installation can be unreliable. So better to ask about it to home experts. If you are looking for Ceramic tile for order then you can get it easily through stores like "BuilderoutletUSA"

typical floor opening

Yes, you can

There are many brands of commercial laminate flooring on the market. Some of the most popular brands are Pergo, Armstrong, Allen & Roth, and Project Source.

could be as low as 10 cents a sq foot depending on what all is included. My best suggestion is just post a craigslist ad asking for quotes & in 6 hours you will get a bunch of quotes that are accurate for your market..

The answer will depend on the measurement units for the tiles. Are they 2 inch x 2 inch or 2 ft x 2 ft? Since you have not bothered to provide that crucial bit of information, I cannot provide a more useful answer.

You don't, if you want your carpet to stay stretched and flat on your floor. You see, laminate flooring is not attached to your floor in any way. It floats. The boards are locked together, but if you pull up on the side of a board, it will detach itself easily. So if you attach tack strips to that laminate and then stretch a carpet over it, the tension of the carpet will very likely pull your laminate up at the edges.

To do this the right way, you'll need to remove the laminate flooring (you'll find this VERY easy to do), install tack strips to the subflooring, install carpet pad, and then carpet. It'll stay like it's supposed to.

It varies greatly from product to product and from market

to market. The best way to get an answer is to put an ad on Craigslist

telling what you want installed, ie..

3/4 inch, unfinished oak hardwood over wood subfloor,

new construction, 400 sq feet.

The lesson here is that the more detail you put in the ad, the better the quote.. You will have to understand that not every installer has Golden Hands, some are thieves & butchers, so you may not always want the low bidder..

You can do it either way, however, you'll find grouting and cleanup easier if you do the walls first, including grout, before you start on the floors. This eliminates any mess from wall mortar or grout falling on your new tile floor. It also eliminates any risk of breaking floor tiles if you drop wall tiles on the floor.

Nothing wrong with windex, it will work ok & not harm Porcelain but may not get everything off it.

Yes. The purpose of the transition is to create a pleasing edge to your flooring without binding it, since a laminate floor is designed to "float" and must not be inhibited in movement. Silicone, instead of a transition piece, will still allow enough movement for expansion and contraction. In fact, even if you do use a transition piece, it's a good practice to run a bead of silicone along the edge to seal out moisture that could creep under your flooring and ruin it.

Yes. In fact, it's a good practice to run a bead of silicone along the edge to seal out moisture that could creep under your flooring and ruin it.

That depends on the shape of the 280 sq. ft. area. For example, if it is a rectangle 1 foot by 280 feet, you couldn't fit a single tile into it (I assume you mean square tiles that are 20 inches on each side) because 20 inches is more than 1 foot. But assuming the area is a rectangle who sides are a multiple of 20 inches (or at least one is), we can get a pretty good estimate by converting to square inches. A sq. ft. is 12 x 12 or 144 sq. in. So 280 sq. ft. = 280 x 144 = 40,320 sq. in. Now the area of one tile is 400 sq. in. Dividing 40,320 by 400, we get 100.8. So with a suitable shaped area, we could cover most of it with 100 tiles, but there would be 320 sq. in. left over. 101 tiles would more than cover that much area, but again, to cover a given area of 280 sq. ft. with 101 tiles, the area must have a suitable shape.

Not a good idea, the old pattern will show through and the finish on the old flooring will try to let go of the adhesive over time.,

You can if it's smooth and really sticking to the wall well enough. In this case, I would use a mastic style glue by Mapei.

something that u stand on

You can use Loctite power Grab to bond ceramic tile to concrete. However, it would be very expensive and take longer as it's in a tube. There are many tile cements in buckets that would cost MUCH less and be faster to use. I would use Loctite only for tile repairs.

Shouldn't be an issue. it is controlled down to 3.5 KV at 70, degrees & 20% relative humidity... That is considered Human sensitivity, below that we cant feel the discharge.

If the house is drier than 20% RH all bets are off (WINTER!) and you might throw 3" sparks .. That wouldn't be covered & would be considered normal.