in the main fuseblock

yes

The transmission is 4T65E-HD (code MN7) It is a heavy duty version of the 4T65E wtih a heavy duty gearbox to handle the supercharger. Hope this helps. "G"

I just changed the alternator belt on my 2000 GTP. I removed the coolant tank by removing the two nuts on top of the tank, lifted it out of the way, and then there was plenty of room to replace the belt. The real problem is removing the serpentine belt on the supercharger. The tensioner pulley does not allow you to remove all of the tension from the belt so you must pry the belt off after rotating the tensioner pulley all the way. Both the accessory belt and supercharger belt are serpentine. The supercharger belt comes off first. The tensioner is under the coils and easy access. Use a 15mm socket and ratchet to release tension on the belt and remove the belt from one of the pulleys. Slowly and carefully release the pressure on the tensioner. I had to remove the radiator reservoir to get access to the accessory tensioner way in the back. Just remove two nuts and lift up. Plug the overflow hole. This accessory tensioner is left handed -turn it (counter clockwise) towards the firewall to release the tension. Using the same socket, relieve pressure on the belt and remove the belt from the alternator or take your pick of pulleys. Carefully thread the new accessory belt on all but the alternator. Use a flash light to verify that the belt is properly aligned on all pulleys. Use the rachet to move the tensioner back to the limit and carefully thread the new belt over the last pulley (alternator?). Let the tension off and use the flash light again to verify alignment. Do not get your finger between the belt and pulley! The tensioner being accidently release at such a time will cause damage to the flesh. Repeat with the supercharger belt. (above courtesy of another posting) (below couresy of www.oqcgp.com) http://www.oqcgp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=28395 Helpfull tricks: - If you move the underhood fusebox, its a little easier to get your hands down near the crank level (harmonic balancer). - Disconnect the negative terminal before doing the above. - Hardest to get seated correctly are the belts around the harmonic balancer. - for the S/C belt do all except the parts around the S/C pulley and tensioner. Do the pulley 2nd last and the tensioner last (easiest way to put it on). - Double check each belt pathway and seating 2 times before starting the car especially at the harmonic balancer level. - It helps if you do it in broad daylight or have a strong flashlight handy to see down low. Hope this helps "G"

The 99 does not, so it's likely that the engineers at GM skipped this useful doo-dad on the 2000 also. Too bad, as the greasing helps the suspension last far longer than the sealed units...

This would depend on the driving habits and maintenance of the vehicle.

6-8 ounces

With a timing light.

Answer I replaced the computer which is located at the front of the car on the drivers side if you open up your air box theres a shiny silver thing and its called a pcm look it up for replacments but my gp gt will do 142 mph i lied lol got clocked at 147 while runnning away lol they didnt catch me though heard over my nifty scanner lol so i know where they are going trying to catch me ha i win

There's a little door under your dash in the vent which switches between two ducts. The actuator for this door is either stuck or broken. It's a pain to get to, but any good mechanic should be able to do it for not too much money.

Throttle position sensor is located on the side of the throttle body-in line with the throttle shaft. To locate the throttle body, you can have someone repeatedly push the accellerator pedal (with the engine not running) while you look for the moving throttle shaft. Drew

Get Paid To there are usally sites with free offers to earn free money to do surveys and such.

I've been told I should be getting about 20ish miles per gallon. That's just what I've been told, not what I'm actually getting though.

about 15 gallons

Well, there are really only 4 options you have.

# You can buy a new one for over a thousand of dollars, which in my opinion is a waste of money. # Depending on what is wrong, you can just buy the front nose piece. # Depending on what is wrong, you can just replace the coupler in the inside. # Or you can buy a rebuild. This might be the best option since they are several hundred of dollars, however it will come with a lifetime warranty.

I believe on the grand prix's form 97-03 it's 2.5"

I own an 02 gtp.

You have a serious short in your wiring somewhere, this isn't something you should try and fix yourself. But until you can get it fixed, carry a fire extinguisher. (I speak from experience, I had a 97 Saturn SC1 that burned to the ground because of a wiring short)

Also, the water pump could easily cause an engine to start running hot. Water pumps don't necessarily go completely bad all at once. It could be just starting to go bad, the worse it gets, the hotter the engine will run. Also, if the radiator did indeed need flushing, then understand that the inside condition of the radiator and the water pump will naturaly be the same. So the chances of the water pump going bad would be pretty good. One other possibility could be a crack in a head. If the overheating happens in low city driving only and at highway speeds the egine runs ok, look into the hydraulic radiator( 2000-2002 only) fan. It is possible that the fan is not running at all. Run the engine with the hood open. When the temp gage starts climbing, look at the fan blade to see if it running.

Normally, the supercharger will pull oil from the engines oil pan meaning that when you change the engine oil it also changes the oil in the S/C. However, the supercharger may have either its own reservoir or have an independent drain of its own.

Due to the high temperatures this part may incur, I recommend a change when you change the engine oil sense the part is so expensive to replace and it has such strain placed on it.

If you just drop down to a 3.4 inch pulley on a otherwise stock Grand Prix you will probably not see much of a performance gain because of the extra heat. All the extra heat will cause detonation in the cylinder which will then cause the engine to pull timing, robbing you of horsepower. To drop to a 3.4 inch pulley you should at absolute minimum be running a three inch down pipe with a u-bend delete, an upgraded PCM, and I don't really believe in them because I don't think they make a big difference but you might want to consider a cold air intake. If not cold air I would say that you should at least get a drop in K & N filter. Also if you really want to avoid detonation in the cylinder (which can chip pistons) go with full headers and a down pipe. You should also get a 180* thermostat because the stock ones run about 195* which is a little too hot for these engines once they are modded at all. Personally I wouldn't drop below a 3.6 inch pulley if you weren't doing any other mods and at most you might see a 15 hp increase at the crank from this.

Guaninosine triphosphate.