Isuzu Trooper

Depending on the season for the viscosity; consult owners manual. Quanity; start with five quarts and check the dipstick after you ran the engine for a couple minutes to check for leaks at the filter and drain plug. Some models take more than five quarts, but you can see for yourself and add if necessary.

Depends on the year, but typically it is 14 city, 17 highway

The small one is for the oil light

The larger one is for the oil pressure guage

Have you ever had answer to this,Ive got same problem can you pass on ?Thanks.

43 psi

It could be a number of things. If it's drivable I would take it to AutoZone and they can do a check and tell you what the problem is. It's also free so it wouldn't hurt.

With most vehicles...you

can touch the positive and negative battery cables together (disconnect from battery first) and it will reset the vehicle faults if they are corrected. Or go to just about any car parts store and they will do it for free.

I assume you have the 3.2L 6 cyl engine. You will have to remove the front pulley on engine that drives all belts-the bolt takes a 15/16" socket-it will be very tough to remove if it's the first time. I used a "chain type" strap wrench tool-similiar to n oil filter strap wrench-to hold the pulley from turning while breaking 15/16" bolt loose with a breaker bar type wrench-1/2" drive. The bolt removes turning it counter-clockwise as you are facing engine from front of car.I recommend coating pulley to engine shaft area with anti-seize compound when you re-install it. It's very important you do NOT turn engine crankshaft when removing pulley. Then you remove front covers-3 pieces-one to each cyl bank and one right behind the pulley you have removed. With covers off-put pulley back on engine shaft (leave bolt out)then carefully turn engine shaft CLOCKWISE ONLY until marks on belt line up at1:dot on crankshaft pulley,2:marks on belt line up with dots on each camshaft-HAYNES repair book has a good diagram of timing belt mark alignment-I recommend getting this book if only for this.Remove belt tensioner-then belt-then waterpump. I recommend replacing the oil seal that's behind the engine pulley that drives timing belt.

There are two plugs under the transmission (on the fluid pan) the lower one in the center is the drain plug, the other (upper) in the pan corner that is the fill plug. Make sure the fluid is properly warmed up car parked on a level spot then open up the fluid check / fill plug (upper in the corner). You will have to use a fluid pump to fill the transmission pan until the fluid runs out of the fill / check plug. Close and tighten the plug, warm up the fluid and check level again!

6.9kms/liter

just behind the wheel well of the right front tire its a silver color looking thing

The transmissions are interchangeable. The 1992 and the 1994 models were equipped with the exact same transmissions and transmission mounts.

The 1993 Isuzu Trooper with the 4L30E 5-speed manual specifies API 5W30 for the transmission. API SJ (or above) is compatible with this transmission.

im not 100 % but i think the down pipe on the exhaust has to come off havent done it yet but my starter is going out and i intend to do it myself so i guess we will find out together im not 100 % but i think the down pipe on the exhaust has to come off havent done it yet but my starter is going out and i intend to do it myself so i guess we will find out together

2000 pounds

Would have been built for R12, can be converted to R134a.

fully syntetic oil, best quality oil u can get, that engine is know for been a bitch,

even Isuzu recalled it, that engine is weak, and can fail at any given time, even with full service history, turbos, injectors. head gaskets, high engine wear, oil burning,,, u name it this engine has it

Flush radiator

I cant be totally sure but I think it is the Diff lock engaged warning light Best wishes

5000 pounds

Should be on the bottom passenger side of the radiator, facing the engine...That's where mine is...

Remove the drain bolt from the oil pan, and let the oil drain into a bucket. Unscrew the oil filter with the use of a filter wrench. Screw the new filter on, and reinstall the oil bolt.

I am in the process of doing the same on the right rear bearing. Mine is a 1999 trooper and the bearings are in the bearing housing. You have to remove the wheel, brake rotor, parking brake assembly, ABS sensor, and parking brake cable. Then there are four bolts that hold the bearing housing to the axle housing. Once those bolts are out, you can pull the whole axle shaft out . The problem is getting the bearings and ABS position part off the axle and out of the housing. I took mine to a machine shop and 30,000 pounds of pressure could not get them out. The dealership suggests bringing it to them and they heat the abs position collar with a torch to expand it while applying pressure. Fun to the the rear end off, but the pros need to actually replace it.

it is 5W30 motor oil that goes in it for ambient air temps of 95 deg F and below or you can use 10w30 but can cause damage if the ambient air temp drops below 32deg F so your best bet would be 5w30 but im not sure if you should use a synthetic oil or a conventional oil

There are many reason for the leaks, either corrosion, freezing, shaking, etc. They can usually be repaired by draining the fluids, then removing the radiator and cleaning the seams, or pin holes areas with a fine wire brush, steel wool, scotch brite or something similar, then re-soldering the area. Another solutiuon would be to take it to a radiator shop where they will dip it to clean the inside well, then repair the seams.

Radiators in most newer cars can't be repaired because of the way they are made(mostly plastic and aluminum. The best way and ONLY way to repair a leaky radiator is to replace it. Repair it and you will be repairing it again and again.