Isuzu Trooper

Under the intake mannifold (you have to remove it to get to it).

with a scan tool, you can go to your local auto shop and they should scan the cars pcm for less than $30.00. or you can go to your local auto-zone and they will read it for free, but mind you it will not be that accurate and they can only read codes they cant clear them.

A fault code 081 on a Isuzu Bighorn means that the car starter is not working properly. You should replace the starter and the code will go away.

You have to remove cover off instrument panel where there is a screw and 2 holes, you have to take the screw out of the hole it is in and put it in the other and light will will not come back on for 60000 mile

If your car doesnt require it I would stick with the 5w30 rather than spending more on 5w20

I have a 1990 Trooper, 4X4, 2.8 V6, 5spd. It just hit 152,000 miles and it drives better than my parents Chrysler Pacifica which has only 40,000. However, a vehicle will last as long as you want it to. Meaning, if you keep on the maintenance and don;t over do it a Tropper will last well over 200K.

The flywheel is held on with multiple bolts. I think you will find that the bolt holes on the flywheel will only align one way on the crank shaft, just keep rotating it around until you can start 2 bolts and it will be there.

yes they can. witch v6 is it? 2.8?

passenger side in the midle of motor behind alternator and front or motor mount

Simple answer is take it to an auto transmission shop. They have all the gear and replace the gasket and internal filter for little more than it would cost for the bits. I gave up doing this years ago.

Check myisuzuparts.com

Removal 1. Battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1). 3. Remove exhaust front left pipe(2). 035RW016 4. Remove heat protector(3). 5. Disconnect starter wiring connector from terminals "B" and "S"(4). 6. Remove starter assembly mounting bolts on inside and outside(5). 7.Remove starter assembly toward the bottom of engine(6). 065RW027 Installation 1. Install starter assembly(6). 2. Install mounting bolts and tighten bolts to specified torque(5). Torque: 40 N·m (30 lb ft) 3. Reconnect the connectors to terminals "B" and "S" and tighten Terminals "B" to specified torque. Torque: 9 N·m (80 lb in)4. Install heat protector(3). 065RW027 5. Install exhaust front left pipe and tighten bolts and nuts to specified torque(2). Stud Nuts Torque: 67 N·m (49 lb ft) NutsTorque: 43 N·m (32 lb ft) 6. Connect Heated O2 Sensor connector (1). 035RW016 7. Reconnect the battery ground cable.

Hey There: Had the same problem,,,what i did was took the front grille out,,,and reached my hand up under the front of the hood,,,there is a small black cable there,,,grab hold of it and yank down ,,hard,,,you should hear the hood pop,,,open,,,then put the grille back in,,,now you will want to,,,lubricate the latching mechanism,,,on the top of the inside of the hood,,,and cable its self...be sure to work it back and forth,,,a few times,,,to make sure,,,it works correctly,,,have someone ,,,in the truck,,,to pull on the lever,,,GOOD LUCK!!!!!!!!!

Yes, the doors and windshield interchange as follows: 1984-1991 windshield interchangeable. 1984-1987 2 door LWB doors interchangeable 1984-1987 4 door doors interchangeable 1988-1991 4 door doors interchangeable 1989 SWB 2-door doors interchangeable with 1988-1991 4-door front doors and rear barn doors. note: pre-1988 4-door doors will fit 1988+ mostly, but the lock mechanism has a different retaining hole. but the newer locks can be re-keyed to match the older keys, and vice versa. you just can't put the whole lock from one into the other. There were also 5 distinct hinge redesigns which make door fitment slightly different with different years - for example the hinges from a 1986 would swing the doors too wide on a 1991 and allow little kinks from the interfering sheet metal.

There is no dipstic, it is a sealed system. Unless you have a leak, it doesn't require checking. There is no checking the fluid, it is a sealed system and requires no checking unless you have a leak.

its a vague question but i think you need to separate the transmission from the engine they are connected with a splined shaft and they must be pulled straight apart before removing

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wear gloves, bearings all come out. then you have to remove the sensor off the back of it. along with 6 17mm bolts. How do you change the rotors in the front on a 1998 Isuzu Trooper

Hi, you're no stranger to danger, are ya? I just finished a 1990 4cylinder this afternoon. You're going to have to pull the motor, or the transmission. Frankly, loosening the engine mounting bolts (2 on each side and accessible through the wheel well and from above) and the bell housing bolts and then sliding the engine forward will allow access to the clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing. Hang the motor on a chain for the duration. You'll also need to remove the radiator and fan, to allow for that forward slide. It's easy and only seems daunting. Don't forget to have your flywheel turned if it has any grooving (about $30)and to have the machine shop tell you how much he shaved off. You'll need a shim of the same thickness (probably .025, or 25 thousandths)to keep the flywheel in the same spot within the engine system (yep, you need to do this if you have a hydraulic clutch) and don't forget to keep the bellhousing bolts in the right order, as some are longer, etc..than the others. You may, or may not, need to remove the smallish second oil pan, or pickup pan, to allow great access). So, you can do it yourself, if you have the right work area, or, you can pay a shop and have a much smaller headache...as with most vehicular decisions, it's just a question of money. Good luck.

I would contact GM or Isuzu dealership with engine code , make, year, and what ever details you can find.

My 2000 Isuzu Trooper does the same - the reduced power light comes on, often after a hard break, and then the vehicle won't go over 10 mph. The gas pedal sometimes stops working altogether; the check engine light has been on for a year.

The scanner checks produce up to 6 error codes intermittently. Resolving those issues doesn't solve the reduced power problem. I have replaced the throttle position sensor twice, and more other parts than I can name, including the central computer. Mechanics at two different repair shops each spent a week each going through every single wire to search for a short (I live in Mexico, where labor costs are cheap enough to make this possible, and mechanics don't charge if they fail to fix the prolem). After the second mechanic located and repaired a broken wire, my vehicle worked briefly. Today the problem returned.

Many people are reporting the same problem and some solutions in the discussion thread at http://www.automotiveforums.com/t343629.html.

Plug gap is .040"

it's built into the distributor

located below power pack at front of motor hose from bottom of radiator connected to it

This is an easy one. 1) remove battery cables 2) remove screws aroun steering column 3) try to start car one more time 4) buy a Haynes repair manual for the vehicle