Mazda 323

Half of 323 is 161.5. This is calculated by dividing 323 by 2.

Bypassing the conlog immobilizer on a 1997 Mazda 323 is not recommended, as it can lead to legal and ethical issues. However, if you are the vehicle owner and have lost your keys, it is best to consult a professional locksmith or an automotive technician with experience in immobilizer systems. They can provide a proper solution, ensuring the integrity of your vehicle's security system is maintained. Always prioritize legal and ethical methods when dealing with vehicle security systems.

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Oh, dude, the fuel filter on a Mazda 121 is usually located along the fuel line, somewhere between the gas tank and the engine. It's like a ninja hiding in the shadows, silently filtering out all the gunk from your fuel. Just remember, if you're gonna go searching for it, maybe bring a flashlight and some snacks, it could be a wild adventure.

Well, honey, technically you can spray enamel paint over acrylic paint on a car, but it's not the ideal scenario. The two have different properties, so the enamel might not adhere properly and could lead to chipping or peeling. If you want a paint job that lasts, I'd recommend sanding down the acrylic paint before applying the enamel.

Oh, dude, you're really getting into the nitty-gritty here! The torque settings for the Mazda 323 1300 top and big ends are typically around 45-50 ft-lbs. But hey, if you're not feeling confident about it, maybe just take it to a mechanic and let them worry about all those technical details, you know what I mean?

I'm not even certain this is a question, although I gather your are looking for the right hand parking lamp assembly for a 1989 Mazda 323. Have you looked on e-bay or tried your local auto wrecker? It is held in place with two Phillips head screws and pulls forward to remove (there is a locator peg on the back). The light socket removes by givig it a 1/4 trun counter clockwise. If you can't find one locally, send me an e-mail and I can sell you one of my spares. Thanks Malcolm

The fuel economy of the Mazda 323 can vary depending on the model year, engine size, and driving conditions. However, I can provide a general range:

Older Models (1980s to early 1990s): These models typically had a fuel economy ranging from about 22 to 28 miles per gallon (mpg) in the city and 28 to 35 mpg on the highway.

Mid to Late 1990s Models: Fuel economy improved slightly in later models, with some versions achieving around 24 to 30 mpg in the city and 30 to 38 mpg on the highway.

2000s Models: The Mazda 323 was eventually replaced by the Mazda3 in many markets, but in the early 2000s, the last of the Mazda 323 models had similar fuel economy figures, often in the range of 25 to 32 mpg in the city and 32 to 38 mpg on the highway.

• These figures can vary based on the engine type (e.g., 1.3L, 1.5L, 1.8L engines), transmission (manual vs. automatic), and specific driving conditions. If you have a specific model year or engine in mind, I can provide more precise details.

The computer box, or Engine Control Module (ECM), on a 1988 Mazda 323 is typically located in the engine bay near the firewall. Look for a rectangular metal or plastic box with wiring harnesses connected to it.

Do you have tail lights? If so, did you or somebody else install an aftermarket radio? On a lot of Japanese cars, the dimmer is wired backwards to what would be referred to as normal American design, and the aftermarket radio will burn out the dash light dimmer controller. So, not only will you need to buy a new controller, you will have to find the right wire, and eliminate it from the radio's adapter harness. Yeah it gets pretty messy, alright.

Depress the gas pedal about an inch while the engine cranks will help on fuel injected engines. Carbuerated engines would need to be checked for proper choke operation. Then have the motor tuned up right away. Cranking an engine too long causes wear, drains batteries and burns up starters

It should be on pass. side of the car down by your feet. Look on the bottom of the heater,a/c box there should be two screws holding an aprox. 2 x 6 inch cover that holds the cabin air filter. On a slightly older model the filter may be located behind the glove box. Just open, remove contents and check to see if ther are any tabs located on side of the glove box that keep it from opening all the way up. Once folded down look for the screws and the cover to filter. Good Luck

yes

There are a number of reasons why an engine would knock when you idle the vehicle. It could be your motor mounts. You may also need oil.

mine doesnt

If its manual that would be the cltuch slipping.

I assume you mean the rotor for the distributor. It is held in place with a small Phillips head screw. Take of the distributor cap (held in place with two Phillips head screws). Turn the engine over until the contact portion of the rotor is pointing down. Unscrew the machine screw from the rotor arem and pull the rotor off the distributor shaft.

If you are refering to the brake rotor, you will need to jack the car up and support it on jack stands. Remove the road wheel & tire. Have someone step on the brake pedal, and undo the nut holding the half-shaft to the hub assembly. Remove the two bolts holding the brake caliper to the strut. Remove the cotter pin and undo the nut of the tie rod from the hub assembly; uncouple the tie rod end from the steering arm of the hub assembly. Undo the bottom pinch bolt (holds the axle carrier to the lower ball joint). Remove the top two bolts of the axle carrier/brake rotor assembly. You can now take the axle carrier/brake rotor assenbly off the car.

Working on the bench, bend back the loaking tabs for the rotor retaining bolts, then remove the retaining bolts. You should now be able to remove the brake rotor from the hub. Note if you have committed to replacing your brake rotors, you will probably want to repalce you hub bearinsg and seals while you have these assemblies off the car.

Also be sure to inspect your lower ball joints and brake pads and replace if worn.

CheersMalcolm

Hi, You will probably find that the rotor is 45 degrees out! (Compare the key (bit that pokes in the end of the cam) and rotor positions on your new ad old!) i recently had to replace my magnetic hall sensor divi coz it broke and after a day of trawling junk yards having being told by a Mazda dealer that i needed to replace the whole thing at 300 notes (apparently they don't just sell the hall unit!) i finally had a very nice man tell me that the optical divi on a kia pride would probably fit! after 6 hours of fiddling and scheming the answers we come up with were as follows! 1 the divi rotor is a 1/4 turn out and the compensating for timing dose not allow for that much difference hence your situation of runs but poorly on max tilt 2. You cant just swap the shafts in the divi's over as the optical one is slightly slimmer to allow for a balancing shim for the optical wheel and finely 3 the only way to get the timing you want is to cut the end of the lug and do a bit of grinding to allow you to turn the divi where you really want it(you may have to create some sort of bracket for one of the lugs as the timing was beyond even the new cut lugs!). we did try moving the leads by 90o to see if we could catch the fire on the other edge of the adjuster but no luck - give it a go though! hope this helps oh and if you dint know the timing should be 6 - 8o

The fuel pressure regulator is located on the fuel rail of the vehicle.

it sounds like CV joints that are worn out, you will notice it more if at low speed you turn sharply. This definitiely sounds like a worn out CV joint. The complete half-shaft should be replaced immediately. These are carried by most of the major after-market auto parts outlets such as Schucks, UAP. The half-sahft is a remanufactured unit with new CV joints and boots. If one side is gone, chances are good that the other side is going; my advice is to replace both half-shafts (I have done this twice on my 1989 Mazda 323).

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